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Hey John Yes, you are right about that. I guess it will be exact enough for that job that is coming up soon. I will see how it is with the accuracy and then decide what to do. The difference is that my collets are closed by a drawbar with a handwheel, as you can see here: And I would say...

Hi everyone In the near future I will need to make lots of equal parts on the lathe. And I will do it with collets to get a good accuracy. So I thought it would be the best to make a backstop which can be attached to the collets on my lathe (W20 collets): Parts are made from machining...

Well, that with the cone itself would have been easy - what I wanted to say is that the cone angle should be very small, something like 10°. And I don't know how you call that kind of cone - guess its not "small cone" Cheers

Hey Simon Well, if you want do get it absolutely true, you would have to first ream the bore; then use a turning mandrel to put the part on and then turn the threads between centres. Else, it works quite good if you make a cone to the beginning so the die starts taking cuts with slow...

As I said, I only use diamond compound for honing...! But you're right with the fact that diamond grits will stick in the softer material. When I finished honing with one grit, I always clean the mandrel and then make some turns without any compound, just oil until the oil does not turn black...

Stan, you can get a set of diamond lapping paste for about 40$ (25.65 £). I did order some of this compound from rdg tools; works quite well (I use it for honing) You can also get them seperate if you only want some grit sizes. Cheers Florian

For the front, I would make me a tool like this: (Source: http://www.gregory.de/images/Produkte/CDS/Spannzange_Teileansicht.JPG ) Possibly with a knurled body and I would use a knurled nut / screw or a star handle for closing the collet. You could even make a collet with 4 arms (first at...

That was just my thought 5 minutes ago, and now i see someone just had exactly the same idea... 8) Cheers Florian

Hey John Oh well, that with the blocked pipe is of course not good and for shure the reason for that extraordinary wear of those parts. Furthermore, I must admit that I hadn't written anything about checking all the parts. Of course I dont' start turning any engine (or moving parts) before I...

Hey Bogs Dont' you think the problem with the electric dill was not the direction of the load but rather the high rpm compared to what a team engine does when under steam...? And if the bearigns and pivots get damaged by running it by the crankshaft, then the material used is not very...

Hey Simon If you are going to finish-machine the piston on the piston rod, this should work so far. I would use some petroleum because it is very thin and lubricates not so good (that finally means breaking takes less time) When the machine is running, you should frequently (every 15 minutes...

Hey Speedyb Carbide is almost never the best choose for machinig free cutting brass. Except if you use an indexable tool with CCGT, DCGT or VCGT inserts and also with a very small tip radius. (0.1mm or 0.2mm) But still, I rather like to use HSS for machining free cutting brass, also because...

The flex as itself is no the problem; rather cutting edge geometry and speed. Possibly also the material; Its best to use free-cutting brass as it is quite brittle. Then, your cutting edge should have NO radius as every radius increases cutting force. This is because the pressure of the...

I thought about this when i wrote my last post but left it away because i excepted the z-clearance to be too small for doing this... But if you can manage to, this would be the best way I think. Cheers Florian

No, not exactly! Of Course you won't get the best possible surfaces this way but the grinding stone will place itself to where there is the least forces on the (dremel) shaft. And If you work carefully, you will get quite good results with that. Of course you will get better surfaces with a...

Hey Greg With the new Shaft, if it is not running true and you own a dremel, you could try this: Clamp your Spindle in the 3-Jaw Chuck of your lathe. Support the spindle in the front with a fixed steady. Then adjust the compound slide to the collet cone (using a dial gauge with lever). Now...

Hey Greg What do those "bands" look like? Maybe there are induced currents going through the bearings?? (This would harm bearings and make "bands" on the races. Maybe you can cut one of the bearings races if they are crap and see what the raceway looks like...? I mean, what may has happened...

Hey Greg Thats a Pity! But: Why dont you make your own spindle, get it hardened (that's not expensive) and finally have it ground to size? Of course its more expensive than getting a new straight shaft but with all the time you have spent, i would say it is worth it. Maybe someone here on...

HI Picclock The problem is, that if you use diamond tools on steel, the Iron will destroy them quite soon as it can take carbonate into its structure. It then is being converted to fe3c and the steel also gets harder because of this. (though a tap is already quite hard) The Thing with the...

Hey Holt In German they are called "Filzabstreifer" or "Gummiabstreifer". You probably will have to make your own housings for them and buy some felt or rubber sheet and cut it into shape. You may also find something with "Führungsbahnschutz" Cheers Florian *edit* I just googled and found...