Recent content by VicHobbyGuy

Languages change with time; especially English with all the words imported from other countries in the days of Empire (and before when French was the language of the Royal court, etc..). Don't rail against change - unless you speak Middle English (as in The Canterbury Tales) you're as guilty as...

Another approach similar to the Evan nut: Delrin (acetal) can be heat-formed to make a nut. The difficult part -for me- was to enclose the Delrin in a metal housing strong enough to attach to the saddle in the limited space available.

Update: I bought some brazing rods on clearance and, as reported, the flux is easy to remove. I just soaked the rods in a bucket of water for a few hours and the flux came off with a Scotchbrite pad.

Thanks. I need to get my 'mini-melter' organized, and then I plan to try just that.

Pat: Sad news about John Moore aka Bogstandard aka Blogwitch

Thanks for those ideas - definitely "food for thought". I hadn't considered using blind holes or threading the holes. I have enough aluminum to do a few experiments, so I will post results if and when I get something worthwhile.

I'm building some easy air-powered engine models. For flywheels, I have aluminum but no bra$$ or steel that's big enough to add to the flywheel rim. If you have poured lead 'plugs' into a flywheel, I'd like to have any 'tips and tricks' you discovered. I'm thinking about 6 or 12 plugs in holes...

Thanks. I'll look around for no-flux rod.

I'm new to model building - I got a lathe just a few months ago. I've read mentions/suggestions about using brazing rod for parts requiring small diameter brass/bronze rod. Is this common, or would I be better to just buy brass rod ($$) from a hobby supply place. And if using brazing rod -...

I had a quick look and it seems that the digital subscription with archive access is more expensive? Probably still worthwhile, though.