Team build

[joe d]

I've got some 2-56 x 3/8 stainless hex heads (0.123" across the flats) from micro fasteners that would do just fine for fastening the pipe flange to the bearing... more than willing to supply enough for all of them. Easy enough to trim them a little shorter if required.

Joe

 

[Tin Falcon]

Mike : go ahead and make the c/s screws.

Tim: Bob Abbot is doing the Piping.

Wes: sounds Good!!

Tim: Wes will be supplying s/s hex head bolts for that.

Bob A: You got it with the pics looks good.Thanks for taking on the pipe and flange.
Joe d sounds good.

Jim, what size hex do you think I should order from McMaster Carr for the steam connector?

1/4 hex would probably look better but IIRC 3/16 is about $6 for 6 ft and 1/4 is $10 here is the kind of fitting I make.this is a 1/4 barb fitting made from 1/4 hex stock. I will let you decide what size to buy either will work.

So it looks like the only part left is the Reversing valve stud. I can take care of that. I ill also pick up a dozen 4-40 thumb nuts to hold the reversing valve on . I have a 10 -32 thumb nut pictured just for reference.

Bob A:
If you want you can order 3/16 round and use Elmers design or follow the photo and make something that looks like mine with a 3/16 barb and a 4-40 thread.

Thank you all who are pitching in with the nuts and bolts.
Tin Falcon

 

[zeusrekning]

I asked Eric what he thought about a more cosmetic cylinder since he and I are both doing cylinders. He said post my idea and we could vote. I think the original is a little to plain. If anyone has any ideas for something better let me know and I'll draw it.
Also notice the cylinder support, I changed it also. It want hurt my feelings one bit if we stay with the original design so be honest. I'm an IC engine guy so I really like fins My wife said she like the original better till she found out the finned one was mine. :'(

Tim

 

[joe d]

I like fins... especially since it's not me cutting them! (Never tried that yet). Is there someplace we can stick a rhinestone for Marv? :big:

 

[Powder keg]

I like the fins and the support) looks really classy.

Wes

 

[gilessim]

Tim and everyone, I like the fins also and wondered about extending the base a little all round, just enough to put a stepped 1/4 round bead?(I have little 3mm r. cutter for it), also is brass ok? or do we want a contrast with ali, I have both.

Giles

 

[Tin Falcon]

giles: The bead molding effect would be nice. A brass engine with a little copper and steel accents looks very rick it almost sound like we are going for a bit of a Victorian feel.

Tim I like the clean look of the cylinder as is but either way works. If the majority of the team wants fins and you and Eric want to cut all those grooves go for it. Seems like all those fins adds a lot of work . One thing that I do not want to see here is someone starting a real fancy part and then deciding that making twelve like that is too much work. In all fairness plain or fancy the parts you make need to be the same. I know we all want to do our best work and make this look great but lets not get dreamy to the point of biting off more than we can chew. I want this to be a fun for all project.
TF

 

[zeusrekning]

So who has started building? I will start hopefully start next weekend (going camping this weekend :big. I have the material I need other than 1/16" dia drill rod. I still have to learn to silver solder. Good luck everyone!
P.S.
Make sure to take pics.

 

[Powder keg]

I have the brass ordered. I'm going to get one of those tap guide tingies. I have like 96, 4-40 holes to tap.

Later, Wes

 

[Jadecy]

According to the tracking info I should have my brass tomorrow an my taps on wednesday. I hope to get some done this week but I have a car to piece back together first...that will take at least one of my evenings.

 

[deere_x475guy]

I am at the McMaster Carr site right now looking to order the 1/16" plate for the tubing. will this stuff work?

Alloy 260

 

[deere_x475guy]

Update, I just finished my McMaster-Carr order.

Alloy 360 Free-machining Brass Rectangle 1/8" Thick, 1/4" Width, 6’ Length
Copper Tubing 1/8" Od, .061" Id, .032" Wall, 6’ Length
Alloy 360 Free-machining Brass Hexagonal Bar 1/4" Hex Size, 6’ Length

Tin I am going to give your method a go for the steam connector.)

 

[joe d]

Progress report:

Got 6 blanks cut out for bearings. Will start some actual machining this week-end.
As the kids say, WAHOO!

Jadecy: PM me your mailing address sometime, and I will send you the SS hex head screws for the pipe flanges, then you can stick 'em in their spots before sending your parts off to their respective new homes... I'm going to cut them down to 1/4", drill & tap accordingly.

Joe

 

[gilessim]

Well I've got the brass bases cut to length (a start!),I have to go away for work for a week or so but I'll be on the case as soon as I get back, BTW should I send one big package to one of you from here in Italy? as the post is not so reliable, I don't mind paying the postage to whoever has to send the bits on from there over the pond, anyway I'll check with TNT or DHL there are both near me, you can PM me with addresses etc.

Giles

 

[Brass_Machine]

Well I've got the brass bases cut to length (a start!),I have to go away for work for a week or so but I'll be on the case as soon as I get back, BTW should I send one big package to one of you from here in Italy? as the post is not so reliable, I don't mind paying the postage to whoever has to send the bits on from there over the pond, anyway I'll check with TNT or DHL there are both near me, you can PM me with addresses etc.

Giles

I was actually thinking the same thing Giles. You can either send it to me or Tin... then we can ship from there. OFC, I think the same will work the other way... I (or Tin) can compile your share and send it all in one package to you.

Eric

 

[Jadecy]

TattooMike68 -

According to the build list you are making the crank. What are you using as stock? Are you starting with a piece of drill rod or already sized stock or are you turning down from a larger diameter stock?

I'm making 6 of the bearing blocks and according to the plans a good fit is needed for the crank bore. I'm going to use a reamer and get it as close as possible to what you are making. If you are using something pre-sized like drill rod I should be able to get really close.

Thanks!

 

[tattoomike68]

TattooMike68 -

According to the build list you are making the crank. What are you using as stock? Are you starting with a piece of drill rod or already sized stock or are you turning down from a larger diameter stock?

I'm making 6 of the bearing blocks and according to the plans a good fit is needed for the crank bore. I'm going to use a reamer and get it as close as possible to what you are making. If you are using something pre-sized like drill rod I should be able to get really close.

Thanks!

the stock I have is .1870 just .0005 under 3/16" I will double cheak that in a little bit, I left the stock in the back seat of the car and the woman is at the store. . I thought it was 4140 tgp but its 1018 cr.

 

[deere_x475guy]

My McMaster-Carr order arrived today but I will be working from home for our parent company in the UK so I probably won't get started this weekend.

Looks like the project is progressing...))

 

[Tin Falcon]

Bob:
the steam fittings should look great made from 1/4 hex stock . If you need any help or pointers on how to set up the or steps on the fittings let me know. I can give a quick run down.

Tin Falcon

 

[deere_x475guy]

Tim, thanks I will probably bug you once I get to those. I just got a phone call and the company I work for is pretty sure they are shipping me off to the UK for at least a week. Regardless I will still have time in the 3 months to get my parts done.