Setting up my mill

[SmoggyTurnip]

I figured out how to upload it and so I did.

Also it will work in any metric system - you just have to be consistant with the units. So enter everything in inches or centimers bushels or whatever. The results will be in the same units. Note the DTI readings must be multiplied by 1000 before entering. I know an easy way to multiply by 1000 if you need help.

 

[Loose nut]

LooseNut, I prefer "aluminium" (in honor of the thread owner I'll use the proper spelling and pronunciation, LOL) soft jaws.

Putting the extra "i" in it just makes it harder to pronounce, even the spell checker rejects it.
I can smell a flame war comin' about this one.

 

[Divided He ad]

Aluminium.... Nope, no rejection here!! .... Must have been taught to spell it correctly in school!! :big: :big:



Ralph.

 

[BobWarfield]

Used to work with a bunch of Brits, one of whom collected model steam locos (Japanese made, the maker escapes me) and had a proper Garden Railway right here in sunny California. I helped him fabricate some radio control parts for one of them. Anyway, I took great delight in always using the "alu-min-i-um" form with them and they in turn were very careful to say "alu-mi-num".

They were a fine group of fellows to work with.

Cheers,

BW

 

[wla421]

Great information,

I will be receiving my Optimum 20L shortly and am looking for tips such at this article.

George

 

[pete]

Bogs,
As per usual a very clear demonstration of leveling and tramming. I'd also agree with who ever mentioned about writing articals like this for Model Engineers Workshop magazine. The only thing I could possibly add is with a Bridgeport syle machine, After you finish tramming the machine it should be rechecked after fully tightening the bolts in both tilt and nod. Also after tightening these bolts then back the worms off to a backlash condition. By this I mean that the worms used to rotate and nod the head should be free to turn with your fingers in each direction. Under cutting conditions and especialy fly cutting the vibration at times can be just enough to slightly move the head in the direction the worm is preloaded in. I can't prove this is so but it does make logical sense. (at least to me it does)

Pete

 

[Blogwitch]

Pete,

There is no 'nod' on my machine, it looks and acts like a Bridgy, but it has no powered downfeed or nodding head. Two things less to worry about, as both of these items do seem to have problems associated with them.

I have never had any trouble with the worms moving the head, but I did have trouble with it moving when I left the power feed on and it took a brand new non rotating cutter and dragged it across the top surface of my brand new vice. A constant and embarrasing, clear view reminder to always check your power feeds are off.

Bogs

 

[pete]

Bogs,
OUCH, While that is a good reminder of a past mistake it still has to hurt every time you look at it. I've just bought 2 matched vices for my Bridgeport clone mill (Bemato) I figure I've just doubled my chances of running an end mill or cutting tool into them. When, Not if? I do so I'll know exactly how you feel. Hell, Even the pros do this at times so I guess were in good company.

I still maintain that the worm or worms should be backed off tho, It can't hurt and might? help. Just my point of view.

I do know a guy with a new Jet mill very close to mine without the nod feature, If? Your mill wasn't dead on in the Y axis did you have much trouble shimming it into correct alignment? I'd also agree with you about the lack of this nod on your mill as this can only make these type of mills more rigid and more accurate. It is handy for aligning my mills head in the Y axis tho.

Pete

 

[Blogwitch]

Pete,

I did check when I set the machine up, and since. The Y axis tram is much less than half a thou, even when the top ram is moved in and out for horizontal milling, so for me, that is good enough. I don't think I could shim it any closer than that.

I have since made a proper tramming tool.

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=822.0

It takes very little time to check the X tram and adjust if necessary.


Bogs

 

[pete]

Bogs,
Thanks for the answer, I'll be sure to pass that along. I'd like to add that this forum would be a lesser place without your postings.

Pete

 

[wizardofwood]

Another thing I found worthwhile to check on a new machine vice is that the fixed jaw
is perpendicular to the base. After the head is trammed attach a dial indicator to the spindle nose
and run it down the face of the fixed jaw. I had a vice that was running out 0.05 over 50mm, makes it
hard to get faces square to each other.

 

[pete]

Wiz.
Also another good tip. Trust nothing. Alltho accurate checking of equipment you just bought can certainly ruin your day when you find out just how inaccurate some of this stuff really is, In reverse it always gives me a warm fuzzy feeling when items check out to be dead on. Adjustable items like Bogs post here about tramming are great. It's the non ajustable items like hardened vices that really hurt when you don't have access to a surface grinder.

Pete

 

[Blogwitch]

Pete,

You are spot on with your advice.

I did all this set up work because I was in a mini production environment where quality and spot on sizing were the most important parts of the job, and I went to great lengths to achieve that.

Nowadays, that pressure is now no longer there, so if something is say 1/2 a thou out, in say tram or vice adjusting, I wouldn't even bother trying to adjust it out.

As long as the bits I make fit together as they should, that is good enough, although I do try to get most things as perfect as I can, within my own bodily limits.

Old habits die hard.


Bogs

 

[pete]

Bogs,
LOL, yes, I'd certainly agree, Both good and BAD habits do die hard. With machining I started this late enough in life I decided that it was just as easy to learn good habits as the bad, So most? times I try and do it the correct way. So far this has worked well for me. Constant reading of books and forums like this help a lot.The ability to sort out the good information from the bad does take a long time to learn but it's well worth it. I'm not kissing butt, It's postings like yours that make it enjoyable to even be here. There is a huge majority on this forum that I think the same about.

Pete

 

[VapeurCorlay]

wHAT A LOAD OF OLD CRAP mR bUGS Mahinesa don't need to be levelld lik that at all as long as they have a datum. You are leading all these poor people astray and frightening them.

Kerv

 

[ksouers]

Mr Corlay,
You have been registered for a grand total of 7 minutes and your first post is to pick a fight with Bogs?

I suggest you learn some manners, sir.

 

[Blogwitch]

Don't worry Kevin, I have been in a real foul mood for the last couple of weeks, and it is still brewing, so I should have no trouble seeing this a**ehole off for good if needs be.

I will wait for his reply as to why everything I have said is incorrect, and his reasons as to why, then I can pull him to pieces, one tiny bit at a time, just like I did last week with one over on MM, when he decided to upset me with a snide remark.

Bogs

 

[Ken I]

Beware of "Refurbished" machines.

I once bought a "refurbished" Bridgeport which had all its ways reground and scraped.

The knee moved from left to right 1.2mm over its full stroke and from front to back by 0.6mm - it was however dead square - but otherwise useless.

It was sent back !

Rather buy one "warts & all".

Trust nothing is a good motto.

Leveling really isn't that critical but is always good practice - particularly if you ever want to set an angle with an inclinometer - in which case it's critical.

I also use soft jaws (Aluminium) - it allows your mill to be as accurate as it can be without a lot of fiddling around.

Apart from a stepped register, you can also mill vertical and horizontal "Vees" which is great for holding round stock.

Yeah, you do have to skim them every time you remove and replace the vice (or reclock them) but for really accurate work, skimming is best.

Regards,
Ken

 

[Blogwitch]

Ken,

You are absolutely correct about not having to have the mill level, and I think I explained very early on in the first post that there are definite advantages to actually having it very close or spot on.

I don't expect my words to be taken as gospel, as that is just the way I personally do things, but there would be no way I would give bad information just to make people follow my lead.

Lathes on the other hand are a completely different kettle of fish. You can in fact use them without being level, but they have to be rigidly mounted and the twist must be non existent, or as close as you can physically get it, and by getting it level and solid in all directions, it makes that twist much easier to check and control.

Bogs

 

[steamer]

Actually, I'll jump into this ....


I have read and of the opinion that leveling is important to any precision machine tool.

Here's why.

The first thing a manufacturer does is level base of the machine. Then everything else is fitted to it (I'm kinda cutting to the chase here....there is a lot of fitting going on.)

All the alignments and checks are based on the machine being level. Now if you say....set it on 2 or the 4 feet....OK extreme, but I'm making a point , you will load the machine in a way differant that it was fitted and aligned to.

We do need to remember, all of our machies are flexible , they sag and twist, and this twist can affect our work directly, and it can cause unintended wear of moving parts that put together while the machine was level.

Additionally, I have seen lathe beds ( mine in particular) that was stored for years WAY out of level, and when I got it, it had a definite twist....that has slowly come back out, over the course of about a year....I was constantly chasing it, and it got better and better.....today she seems healthy, and level! ;D

I would also say it is more prevelent in larger machines than the small ones

Just to show there is exceptions, my VanNorman has a base foot that is 5" thick, and when I got it he was sitting on 3 of 4 pads and was visibly rocking!.all 1900 pounds...The VanNorman didn't care.... ;D

Affixing the bullseye squarely on my forehead......

Dave