I got LMS 5c collet chuck it has about 2 thou run out on it. I was advised by Roger at LMS that concentricity only needs to be achieved in the nose front area where the collet sits. (provided everything is sitting correctly behind it and chuck is mounted snug tight indicated with witness marks.) no runout on my spindle or adapter plate anywhere. I have seen the successful dremel tool post method to true out the front be very successful. I was going to make a dremel tool post holder from some steel and harden it. but before I do, my question is can I use a boring bar to true out the front going glow of course and get the same results??
True up 5c Collet chuck nose with a boring bar?
- Thread starter jmecruz
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Swifty
Well-Known Member
I replied on the other area anyway.
Paul.
Paul.
You could but I would not trust it to be smooth like a ground surface.
Are you sure it is not your collets? Make sure you try multiple collets not just one.
I guess you measured directly on the cone of the chuck. I would mark the high spot on the outside with a Sharpie. replace the chuck in multiple positions and see if the mark remains the same. If it does then you know it is your chuck. It it moves then it is your spindle face register. Make sure to scrutinize the back of the chuck for burrs and high spots.
Did you go deep into the chuck and check to see if the whole thing is not bored at an angle?
What is the point of 'truing' up the front if the rest of the hole is offset or tapered? It does not fix the problem.
If the main bore of the hole is bored on a taper I don't think that working on the front alone will help.
Why harden a holder for a Dremel? Seems a bit of overkill for a holder that has light pressure at best.
Are you sure it is not your collets? Make sure you try multiple collets not just one.
I guess you measured directly on the cone of the chuck. I would mark the high spot on the outside with a Sharpie. replace the chuck in multiple positions and see if the mark remains the same. If it does then you know it is your chuck. It it moves then it is your spindle face register. Make sure to scrutinize the back of the chuck for burrs and high spots.
Did you go deep into the chuck and check to see if the whole thing is not bored at an angle?
What is the point of 'truing' up the front if the rest of the hole is offset or tapered? It does not fix the problem.
If the main bore of the hole is bored on a taper I don't think that working on the front alone will help.
Why harden a holder for a Dremel? Seems a bit of overkill for a holder that has light pressure at best.
