engine turning/ jewelling

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Aquarius21

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Greetings, in building the two cylinder rotary valve marine engine as my first model I noticed that some photos show what some have called "bling" that is, engine turning or jewelling. I have been able to find tools for sale that accomplish this but would rather not shell out any more cash at this time. However, I have heard of ink erasers held in a drill chuck can accomplish the task. Any el cheapo solutions and procedures on how to jewel brass to highlight the design? My thanks, Quincy
 
Harbor freight has "grit wheels" that are cheap and work pretty well. Abrasive impregnated rubber, mounted on the end of a 1/8" shank. the hardest part is keeping the pressure the same each time so it looks uniform.

Try it on a very small area, as it is tedious work. You'll soon wish you picked a smaller area after working on it for an hour or two.
 
I use various grits of wet/dry sandpaper with oil for the wet part.

Then it is off to a buffing station with polish of various sorts.
Brasso is usually one of them.

I find this works quite well.
A bit messy but the end result is worth the extra time!

Andrew
 
A small piece of leather on the end of a wood dowel works good too.


Dale
 
As shown in my posts, I use Cratex bobbins, but in the US, you should be able to purchase from gunsmiths supplies, small wire brushes for doing the job. The only thing with those is I think they are for use on steels, and not on the softer metals.

In fact, I think engine turning on such things as chambering bolts is not for decoration, but for very fine oil retention, that looks nice as well.

If I could just make a suggestion. Don't do it too much on the engine or whatever you are building, it makes it look cheap and nasty, and you may as well use some of this.

polish.jpg



Just keep it to highlight a certain item, that is when it is most successful. Here just the small base plate and the steam valve covers is plenty.

custom4.jpg



BTW, one of the main reasons engine turning is done on large areas is because it doesn't show fingerprints when you touch or handle it, hence my use on baseplates. If I handle the engine by holding the baseplate when carrying etc, the rest of the engine stays shiny a lot longer.


John
 
Bogstandard said:
If I could just make a suggestion. Don't do it too much on the engine or whatever you are building, it makes it look cheap and nasty

Right on, John, right on.
 
Hi Team HMEM;

Now is some serious bling! My thanks for all of your insights! Now, where does one get one of thoses nappy milling machines with readouts which do a lovely accurate job when coupled with such skill ? I suspect that I end up doing it Sheriff Deadeye approach- eyeball it carefull and hope for the best. (that should have all the accuracy of last weekend when I was asked by a blackpower club to pipe for a deceased member. I asked to fire one of their rifles. First time in 25 years I had handled a rifle. Fired three times and all I got was a deafened right ear which made it all but impossible to tune pipes later, but it was fun. Forgot to check to see if any engine turning was done on firearms.

Honestly, thanks again! Quincy
 
Sorry guys, but as a full time machinist for over 25 years I gotta say "engine turning" looks hack ! The object of the exercise is to not leave tool marks. None of my projects get polished because I'm proud of the finish I can achieve with cutting tools. Diamond paste and elbow grease can hide a multitude of sins. Sorry, just my opinion. :-\
 

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