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Zx45 wiring question

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jcollings

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Thank you Ken for any help with this. Prefer not to let the white smoke out from the unit.
 

jcollings

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Ok, all leads disconnected

U1. TO. U2. = 2.1 Ohms

V1. TO. V2 = 0.2 Ohms

Z1W1. TO. Z2W2. =5 2 Ohms
 

Ken I

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O.K. Does the mains come on to the remaining 2 terminals on the switch.

With the wires off - check the continuity of the switches - I presume all 3 pairs are open in the off position 2 pairs closed in the forward position and 2 in the reverse - only one pair will be common. I presume this is a frd/off/rev switch ? Are there terminal on the other side ? I there are more switch connections - are they open / closed in what position ?

On the motor connector block are the two terminals (at the bottom of the photo above) connected into the motor or are they just terminals - I suspect they will be connected to the centrifugal switch. Remove the terminals & check for continuity - are they open or closed with the motor stopped ?

Remove the wires from U1U2 and V1V2 from the motor and measure the resistance of each - since this is a motor with a start and run winding, the run winding will be heavier and have lower resistance.

I suspect this :-
emotor1.jpg

I have drawn V1V2 as "heavy" and therefore the "run" wind - could just as easily be U1U2 and I would presume the run switch is closed with the motor not spinning.

Sorry for all the questions but with the motor and switch in front of me, I could probably dope this out in a few minutes with a meter.

Is there a wiring diagram in the handbook ?
 

jcollings

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No wiring diagram anywhere in hand book, this motor is an upgrade from a 110 set up to 220 for lower amps.
If this was American it wouldn't be so bad but this Chinese shi@ really confuses me.
I'll get back to you with the switch info
 
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Hi Jcollings what you have is a 3 pole changeover switch. It is not ideal to use as a reversing switch for a single phase motor but it can be made to work but it means that one terminal of the main winding will permanently be connected to the neutral conductor when the switch is in the off position. Those links that are on your switch are in the wrong position and you will need to add extra links.
 

jcollings

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Yeah I know that the one picture that I sent with the red wire that was not landed , if I swapped that with black I do get the reverse rotation But Still in the right position.
Every time going to the left position it just hums , only getting 120 not 230.
 
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The reason that it is humming is not because it is getting 120v, it is actually getting 240v but the switch is only applying power to one winding and not to both windings and therefore the motor will not start.
 

HMEL

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Your motor will run either direction with the same efficiency. The capacitor and centrifugal switch are used to cause a second phase on start up. On start up the motor sees two rotating phases. The reversing of the terminals is to change polarity so the motor turns in the direction you want then that winding is taken out of service with the centrifugal switch. The motor then will stay in synch with the single phase rotating field.

There are other types of start windings. But I got from the conversation you have a centrifugal switch.

You need to check and make sure your reversing switch is doing what it is supposed to do. These things can get confusing sometimes. However unless you disassemble that motor and check the leads to the windings you have to trust what is on the name plate. Otherwise its a flat out guess as to how it is wired internally.

I usually try to determine which terminals are the start windings and go from there.

But do make sure you start with the correct line voltage set up. Then sort out the terminals and make sure you understand they conform to your understanding of the terminal labels. The physical layout may be different then the schematic layout. Check the reversing switch contacts. And hopefully you are home free.

Good luck
 

Ken I

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Based on your earlier values V1V2 ().2 Ohm) is your run winding and U1U2 (2.1 Ohm) is your start winding.

What happens if you apply voltage to your run winding is that it will just sit there and hum - but if you were to spin it (fast enough) it would run in either direction.

So what happens is we put power on the run winding - and power on the Start winding via the 20UF cap (which changes the phase angle) and this causes the motor to rotate (lets say clockwise) once up to speed the centrifugal switch turns off the start winding (no longer required).

Now to make it run the other way would connect power to the start winding without the capacitor and to the run winding via a bigger capacitor - the motor will now start the other way and the centrifugal switch turns off the start winding.

Only now we have the motor running permanently off the larger cap - which can then be shorted out (no longer required) - but I suspect your system has no way to do that - so your reverse power will be slightly less.

However the rotary switch might have some "magic" connection I am unaware of.

It is possible being "Chinese" that they turn on both start and run via caps for reverse and allow the "run" to defeat the weaker "start" setup - horrible - but based on what I have seen - probably the way they did it.

Regards, Ken
 

jcollings

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OK I rung out the switch.
Here is a very rudimentary diagram with my numbering. Every other terminal that was not on was off.
Originally this switch also had jumpers from 9 and 12 and 8 and 11 according to my numbering diagram.
These have been removed.
Like I said rudimentary diagram but hopefully you can understand it.
 

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Ken I

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Getting there - I can see a problem right off but meantime see if my diagram agrees with your ringing out the switch - then hopefully I can figure it all out.

emotor2.jpg


Mid position I assume is all off as I have indicated.

Regards - Ken
 

jcollings

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Getting there - I can see a problem right off but meantime see if my diagram agrees with your ringing out the switch - then hopefully I can figure it all out.

View attachment 119392

Mid position I assume is all off as I have indicated.

Regards - Ken
Yes your professional diagram is the same as to what my rudimentary diagram tested out to be. ;)
 
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Hi, have a look at the switching diagram that I sent. This is the internal switching of your switch without the links.
You will have to link the correct terminals together to make it reverse the motor.
I am at work at the moment but if I have some spare time I will draw out the wiring diagram for you otherwise I will do it when I get home.
 

jcollings

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Hi, have a look at the switching diagram that I sent. This is the internal switching of your switch without the links.
You will have to link the correct terminals together to make it reverse the motor.
I am at work at the moment but if I have some spare time I will draw out the wiring diagram for you otherwise I will do it when I get home.
You did read post 25 from Ken as to how the switch I have rung out?
I did remove those 2 jumpers on the switch as to when they were installed there was plenty of breaker tripping and problems for this to 230 set up.
 

HMEL

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With a two capacitor motor at start the capacitors are wired in parallel and this in series with the start winding. At about 75% rpm the centrifugal switch will unload the high value capacitor and the low value capacitor and winding stay energized. What this does is yield a high starting torque and a high running torque. Its similar to a one capacitor motor except only the high value capacitor is removed. Reverse occurs by reversing the leads on the start winding.

This is the type of motor I believe you have. If the switch is a simple gang type switch you can trace out the logic. If its a rotary design you might need the manufactures specification sheet to pick up the correct terminals.
 
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