- Feb 10, 2018
- Reaction score
- Central Florida
Bob, I'd start with Brian's idea - wish I had thought of that. But if that doesn't work, keep in mind that drilling from the back side only has to create a path for a drive pin. IOW, you don't have to match the path of the spring pin exactly, and you don't need to drill the same diameter. You may be able to drill a 1/16" hole that intersects with the spring pin, and use that to drive it out. Or you may have to drill a larger hole - 1/8" or so - to expose enough of the spring pin.Drilling on the mill table is conceivable, because that's how I drilled the holes they go in. A 3/32" carbide bit might be tricky to come up with, but I've never looked. BUT, the pin is at angle to the vertical so the other side, with the pin leaning in toward the flywheel center, has worse access.
I don't have a good picture, but it's to fix this:
View attachment 120803
You can kind of see how the steel gear is offset from the brass gear to the right. It's about 1/4 of the width of the teeth off. You can see the pin, at an angle to the vertical.
Plan B might be "live and learn." Ignore it and do better next time.
I do have a small Blazer butane torch, but I really cringe about the effects of the heat on the rest of the parts. While I got the box of assorted pins from Amazon, I'm sure it's the fine, high-quality, Chinesium of Horrible Freight pins, so heating it will turn the pin back into whatever kind of cheese it's made from. After it sets fire to the light coat of oil on everything.bob, i may have missed this so if you said so disreuard. but do you have a pencil butaine torch? like the cheap ones you can use for soldering? if so you mght be able to heat that pin which will remove the springiness (technical term) and possibly while its hot dikes, end cutters or toe nail clipers might be able to pull it. i know the cheap roll pins just loose all their outer compression force (spinginess) after heat and are trash once they have been hot. aka - harbor freight roll pin kits.
but on the other side, i dont know how heat spread may creap up into your other parts and cause problems
Hi, Minh Thanh,Hi Bob !
Has your problem been resolved?
Your solution is to move the brass gear into alignment with the crankshaft gear. I understand with a press fit or Locktite of the crank throw to the crankshaft, removal of the crank/ flywheel out of the frame is an issue. This crank throw should be set screwed to a flat on the end of the crank for ease of removal and servicing then.I think the important part is no, it won't have any effect, it's just not as nice-looking as I'd like. So I'm pretty sure I'm leaving it as is.
Thanks for that part number. There's no such thing as too much information.Either you have the wrong point set, or your point set is incomplete. the points are #018-4126-8 A110P
Thanks. Looking at your picture made me think their's look like the right points. I'll give Advance Auto a call in the morning and see if they have them, or if I have to order for pickup on Friday or something.and the advance auto parts set looks correct. probably doesnt have the condensor with it as its usually sold seperately
I ordered the CDI from Roy Sholl and the way he explained it was the CDI replaces the coil and cap. I could use a hall effect switch and magnet, but points work fine, too. He said it makes the ignition cam simpler.If you are using a CDI, do you need points? Wouldn’t you use a magnet and Hall effect trigger?