X2 powerfeed from a cordless drill

[Noitoen]

Hi,

Just to move a little stepper motor, you can connect it to a the secondary winding of a transformer, with a 10uF capacitor, just like an ordinary single phase induction motor. 12VAC will work fine.

I usually program a little micro controller chip like the Pic12f675, to drive my motors.I build a actuator that uses a stepper and a threaded rod to imitate an hydraulic cylinder. All it's needed is the programmed chip, a couple of buttons and a potentiometer to vary the speed. The problem is that you need to program the chip. I can post the drawing and program if you like.
(forgot to mention 4 transistors)
Helder

 

[BobWarfield]

No Bob, no 555 .. my paws are too cold to grip 8 pin DIL ..

Incidently, mentioning wire wrap, do you not have Veroboard in the US. ie. the perforated board with copper strips on one side.
Some years ago on another forum I had a discourse with a US citizen who'd never seen it. His 'Perfboard' had no copper side??
The exchange ended with no resolution. He'd no idea what I was on about, no Piccys in those days [ 1995 ish ]

Tried Morse in the RAF, utterly useless, so had to be a Radio Tech instead

dave



Dave

Yep, there is something like Veroboard.

It's been quite a while since I did any wire wrapping too.

I'm thinking CNC'ing a PC board is my likely path if I wanted to do a circuit like what you've presented. I've played with some of the PC board layout software a year or two ago and it looked straightforward. I was fiddling with the idea to create a lathe feed as a matter of fact. Here were my notes:

http://www.cnccookbook.com/MTManualStepperController.htm

Your circuit is a lot simpler. I was only trying to generate a pulse train to use with a stepper driver and trying to make it easy to keep both manual and CNC control. I ultimately decided it wasn't worth it and headed down the pure CNC path that people like John Stevenson warned me at the time would be my destination.

Cheers,

BW

 

[Dan]

Oh my thats alot of work sure does look good though, I just drilled the end of my leadscrew and put a bolt in it and use a nutdriver in my cordless to move it.

And you say you have a used motor for sale, I will have my bank mail you a check for it and you cash it, then keep payment and give the rest to my shipper when he comes to pick up the item as I have other items in your area also,,,, :big:
(small world hugh)

 

[Bluechip]

Bob

Very good site, I'd no idea CNC was so complicated ???

Mental note to self .. Avoid like plague ...

The cct is full step, lashed one together last nite. If you do make one, the diodes are not reqd, BUZ11's have 'em.

Think we're wandering off topic a bit Apologies

Dave

 

[gunboatbay]

Back to the original post for a moment. I like the cordless drill because most of them have all the desirable features; infinitely variable speed, reverse/forward, power at low rpm because of the gear train,etc. An inexpensive source of supply if yoy live in North America is the Goodwill Store or Salvation Army Store. People donate these things because the battery pack dies, becomes obsolete or too expensive. I have yet to buy one ($1.50 - $3.00) that didn't work perfectly when I hooked it up to an appropriate voltage power supply. Usually there's half a dozen or so in a bin at these stores.

 

[Bill S]

This is an update on the powerfeed after some use. The unit works very nice and makes using the machine much more efficient. I found if I leave it in the high range -1400 rpm- I can have a nice range of feed speeds from just starting to move at 3V to a rapid traverse at 15V. I will definitely move the switch from the power supply box to the powerfeed unit to keep both controls at the same location. The clutch is set at its lowest setting and works great in both directions. All in all I am very happy with it.

Bill