Wizard lathe restoration

[modeng2000]

I have started this thread so as not to add to the Adept for a 5 year old postings.

This wizard was in a por state when I got it. However with a bit of time and a little money it as become a useful tool even though a bit on the small size.

 

[Danuzzo]

That's a cool looking little lathe.

 

[Danuzzo]

I forgot to ask about it's capabilities. How do you like working with it? I do have a Taig lathe which is pretty small as well (which by the way performs very nicely); but, it does not look as beefy.

 

[SmithDoor]

Looks great

Dave

I have started this thread so as not to add to the Adept for a 5 year old postings.

This wizard was in a por state when I got it. However with a bit of time and a little money it as become a useful tool even though a bit on the small size.

View attachment 119390

 

[JCSteam]

Need to make myself a layshaft like yours. Looks a great little lathe.

 

[modeng2000]

Thanks for the comments.

I have had a lot of satifaction from getting it into a working condition again. So far I have only made test turnings which have shown that the work to bring it back to a working condition has been successful.

Some prsctice was needed to make the drive belts, several of my early joints failed. It seems the easiest way to clean up the excess from the joints is to use the belt sander. Using a scalpel just made hard work and the end result was not particularly smooth. The sewing machine motor (100 watts) is mounted such that the weight of the motor assisted be a spring, tensions the motor drive belt.

The grey box looks out of place against the rest of the setup, perhaps a different colour might be best. However I wanted a no-volt release switch and a speed control. As these operate at mains voltage they had to be enclosed.

I would like to have a tangent (diamond) tool holder having used one with my previous lathe. It will have to be made as I've not seen one small enough for the Wizard.

John

 

[BaronJ]

Thanks for the comments.

I have had a lot of satifaction from getting it into a working condition again. So far I have only made test turnings which have shown that the work to bring it back to a working condition has been successful.

Some prsctice was needed to make the drive belts, several of my early joints failed. It seems the easiest way to clean up the excess from the joints is to use the belt sander. Using a scalpel just made hard work and the end result was not particularly smooth. The sewing machine motor (100 watts) is mounted such that the weight of the motor assisted be a spring, tensions the motor drive belt.

The grey box looks out of place against the rest of the setup, perhaps a different colour might be best. However I wanted a no-volt release switch and a speed control. As these operate at mains voltage they had to be enclosed.

I would like to have a tangent (diamond) tool holder having used one with my previous lathe. It will have to be made as I've not seen one small enough for the Wizard.

John

This is one that I made recently. Using a 3 mm HSS drill stub.

And the drawing for it.

Simply adjust the shaft size to suit your lathe.

 

[modeng2000]

From one Grumpy Old Git to another, many thanks, just what I need to get my thoughts going.
John

 

[modeng2000]

I cobbled this together today, sorry it is a bit rough looking but a clean-up will improve its looks.
The 3/16" tool bit hasn't been sharpened, it is just there to aid the comstruction.
Ths cranked holder is necessary to get the tool tip at centre height.

Perhaps tomorrow I'll be able to try turning something with it.

John

 

[BaronJ]

I cobbled this together today, sorry it is a bit rough looking but a clean-up will improve its looks.
The 3/16" tool bit hasn't been sharpened, it is just there to aid the construction.
The cranked holder is necessary to get the tool tip at centre height.

Perhaps tomorrow I'll be able to try turning something with it.

John

View attachment 119448

Hi John, I can see why you have done that and I wouldn't knock it.

You might find that because it is not in line with the shank it twists slightly under load and chatters.

If you look at the drawing I posted, I drew a shallow "V" behind the cutting edge. I put that in to make grinding the cutter angle easy. However I didn't make mine with it in. When I make mark two it will be so I can use a bigger scrap of HSS. No point in throwing away good bits of tool steel.

 

[JCSteam]

When I make mark two it will be so I can use a bigger scrap of HSS. No point in throwing away good bits of tool steel.

I quite concur! Though my little bits, are a dam sight bigger

I have a load of these stashed away, they had reached the end of their working life in the machines at work. So I have plenty surplus.


Regards
Jon

 

[modeng2000]

I can see what you mean about the possibility of chatter. It was mainly to angle the tool bit wrt the top slide into a side and face cutting position at the same time. It certainly feels rigid and is an approximate copy of the shape of the Diamond tool holder. I didn't realise the amount of effort needed to file the square hole. Other considerations were what steel did I have and as I don't now have a mill I wanted to minimise the hand finishing.

That was a neat move to include the shallow V behind the cutting edge. Would you grind the tool bit while in the holder?

John

 

[JCSteam]

It you get a 3/16" milling cutter, and an angle plate, set the angle plate up on the cross slide, at 45°, then set the work up on the angle plate, at the desired angle for the tool to "lean in" to the work. Then mill the slot, the cutter will mill out oversize anyway and you'll be pretty close to 1/4" while leaving room for clamping up. Put another piece of stock on the angle plate without disturbing the angle, a piece of stock bolted under the piece you just cut can act as a jig, and mill a slot in another piece of steel. Either in a drill press, or the faceplate, or in a chuck. Drill the hole for the mounting screw in both pieces of work, align them with a 1/4" piece of HSS, and clamp together, in hindsight it's probably easier to do this with the faceplate parralel to the chuck body and clamped. Tap through for a clamping screw, then drill out the smaller top piece for clearance.

All ready to go, and the relief that is shown on John B's plan can be filed ground or milled to finish the job proper.

All done without a mill.

 

[modeng2000]

Hi JC, thanks for your ideas, I really feel lost without my mill. Haven't done work like this using a lathe before. Not sure if the Wizard is up to a bit of milling but I suppose there is only one way to find out. Having been used to a W180 lathe, band saw, Formit, BFE mill and a few other items it is a bit strange trying to do these things now. The plan was to unload my heavy machinery which has happened without any drama and just potter about as necessary. I am beginning to regret being talked into doing this.

Experience is the best teacher.
John

 

[modeng2000]

Here is snother attempt at a tangential tool holder.
I think this one is more acceptable. However there is a mistake, the screw is on the opposite side :-(

 

[goldstar31]

Whilst I am 'resting' after trying to mend my disabled scooter( Yes it is disabled like me), I recall a name that appeared in Model Engineer about the Super Adept called J. Latta.

Again, I recall that he made a rotary table for it- and described it there. Yea, and come to think of it, he wrote on lathe alignment.
When? Give the old geyser a bit of credit for just recalling that

Best Wishes

Norman

 

[modeng2000]

Norman, you amaze me with your depth of knowledge.

I know that my Wizard isn't an Adept but they are very similar. So I am collecting what information there is about them.
I have been flycutting this morning to finish the tool holder in the last photo. The lathe did well but still needs a bit of tweaking.

John

 

[modeng2000]

Alas, now that I have some lathe tooling so as to use the lathe in earnest it turns out that it is very underpowered. There is up to around a 10 times speed reduction using the pullies but the 100w motor just isn't powerful enough even though other people suggest it for these small lathes.
The tool bits are sharp and have the correct geometry for the cuts I was trying to make and with very very light cuts I was able to achieve some useful turning.

I guess that perhaps I was hopeing and expecting a bit better performance that I have been able to achieve. I'll have a think as to what to do next.

John

 

[JCSteam]

One option is to buy a DC motor (For electric bikes), and a 240-24v transformer. These motors come in a range of power output, and been DC have more guts to them.

Alternatively as John suggested on my adept thread. Using a shower pump motor as a direct replacement.

 

[JCSteam]

If you go to this site, and search Adept, there is quite a few mods which have been detailed for the Adept lathe, which would probably be suitable for the Wizard.

Model Engineer Magazine Index an

Less results for the Wizard lathe.

Hope these may be of help. I searched Latta, there is a few results, but none that coincide with Adept, in the search function. I will search them out and let you know what I find. So yes Norm, credit to you for remembering that.