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Tin, It must surely be frustrating. I have all but given up buying second hand tools on eBay because invariably there is always something wrong or mis described.

I guess I better stop posting about building on a shopping thread but this is what I achieved.
Click to expand...

Rod I blame myself as much as the seller. He could have mentioned there was no power supply . He DID say no accessories. I did not notice there was no PS in the photo. On the plus side the unit was packed in the original carton with original packing. and so far one missing screw that needed to be replaced. And a couple parts had fallen off the machine but were there.
e-bay and auctions is one of those times when you need to stay objective. Get caught in the excitement and one can pay too much or miss details I missed a $50 detail it cost me.



Say the word and I can breakout your build posts into a new thread.

and my shopping thread has turned into getting a used machine running thread. . when I get power I will likely break off into a new thread as well and add some things I learned about what is out there to this thread.
Good bad or indifferent I hope people have learned from this thread , and the choices I made. As well as the various advise given.


Part of my logic was getting started and not spending to much time on research. there comes a time when one has to stop the talk and start to walk. Looks like you are walking.


Again thanks to all who are helping in this journey. I know there are a bunch of guys with these machines and not a lot of talk about them.
I know it is an additive process and not metal removal but CNC and Something found more and more in the home shop. 5 years ago a reprap kit was about 1 k and looked like scaffolding on the side of a building. The technology is changing.
IMHO there is lots of research to be done with materials. And I have been told the software has come a long way but still much room for improvement.
Tin
 
rodw said:
Paul, Thanks, in a lot of 10, this listing comes in at 26 cents delivered (for 625ZZ 5mm IDx 16mm OD x 5mm Wide)




I'll see how I go making the



The dimensions are metric but they must have used imperial units hence the really odd dimensions. They have another design that adds a V slot on the flat of the wheel so it will run on a V rail as well as the slot but this one just rides in the V shaped channel which is what I want.
Click to expand...
This is just a guess but I don't see the dimensions as odd. What would be a press fit in steel wouldn't be so secure in Delrin. That and holding dimensions on Delrin is difficult, especially on drulled or bored parts.
Here is the other one
Click to expand...


Their approach with these rollers strikes me as strange. The roller idea itself is fine, what I have a problem with is where it runs. Maybe I'm nuts here but it would make more sense to me to run a V notched roller on a corner of an off the shelf extrusion. I haven't tried this yet but you would get longer life in my estimation and your linear bearing would end up stiffer. It probably doesn't matter on a extruded type machine but if you wanted to use the same machine for light routing like with a dreamer I don't see good results with these hearings.
 
Wizard69 said:
This is just a guess but I don't see the dimensions as odd. What would be a press fit in steel wouldn't be so secure in Delrin. That and holding dimensions on Delrin is difficult, especially on drulled or bored parts.
Click to expand...
Agreed that the bearing seat needs to be undersized and that dimension works well but most of the other sizes are direct translations of imperial dimensions in 64ths 32nds etc.
Their approach with these rollers strikes me as strange. The roller idea itself is fine, what I have a problem with is where it runs. Maybe I'm nuts here but it would make more sense to me to run a V notched roller on a corner of an off the shelf extrusion. I haven't tried this yet but you would get longer life in my estimation and your linear bearing would end up stiffer. It probably doesn't matter on a extruded type machine but if you wanted to use the same machine for light routing like with a dreamer I don't see good results with these hearings.
Click to expand...

That is exactly the difference with this profile. There is a bolt on rail (Open Rail) that fits standard T slot extrusions which you can use with the wheel with the V slot, or you can just run the same wheel in the V slotted profile. I just chose not to machine the V in the wheel as it would not be used. Availability in Australia is also an issue. Apparently, the Makerslide extrusion with built in V rail is very easy to damage in transit which is also not an issue with this extrusion.

I think however, I will not perserve with this hardware and look at using precision slides and ball screws. Some newer builds are using these and they greatly simplify construction. One down side is they are about 10 times slower (4mm a rev vs 40mm) but when I see the quoted travel speeds for printers, ball screws are still in the ballpark with my steppers maxxing them out at about 1500 mm a second. Speed could be fixed by using some gears).

If you want a different approach, Google SLA printers which use an overhead data projector to solidify a complete slice of an object in a container of resin where the beam is focussed.
 
WOW and thank you to all who have supported me in this crazy endevor to trek out on the adventure of 3-d printing.

first of all my wife who does not hassle me to much for chasing the silly dreams and for looking out for my interests.
secondly to DKSGROUP e-bay seller out of Bufaloe NY.
my wife let the e bay seller know my printer came with no power supply and I had to buy one to use the printer . the seller gave a partial refunt that covered the cost of the PS and shipping. If all e-bay sellers were so honest and cared that much about customers.

Dave who has offered much advice and communicated with Matt from soliddoodle. And matt fromm solid doodle. and of course to all hear who read and poted to this thread. Test print No 2 in process.

tin
 
Timing is everything isn't it. ? After owning my solid dooodle 4 for all of two weeks SD Has now dropped the SD2 and 3. And they have announced three new inits the press aimed at the plug and play home market current price $399 and will rise to $499. the workbench boasting a 12 in ^3 work area aimed at the serious Maker priced at $1,299 and the apprentice at $799. all three new units have auto level and the two maker units IIRC dual head. The SD4 is now $599 and another addition to the line is solid care a 1 year warranty repair replacement plan.
Tin
 
Having fun with the printer?? Love to see some pics of your first prints.
 
Yes having fun been busy !!
Not avery good pic but what I have ATM.
Tin

DSCI0012.jpg
 
Looks like some pretty good prints. Yep your hooked! LOL
 
And now the newest 3 in 1 machine a combo 3d printer mini/micro mill /router and a 3d scanner.


http://fabtotum.com/
Pre order price of $999 in kit form +100 for the assembled version.
expected delivery Sept 2014
this stuff is just busting loose..


A1 the first prints had some first layer issues. then I got the blue printing well then tryed running the color fab black . always having to rethink . But am having fun and I expect a roll of filament cheaper than a night at the bar. Do not do bars much.
Tin
 
I am following along with interest as you lead us into the future. Thank you Tin.

Jim
 
Thank you Jim for that compliment. It was a privilege to chat with at CF maybe we can do it again some day.


One of the quetion I have heard is what can one do with a 3-d printer . IMHO here is a great example. A guy comes home and finds the garage door opener not working. Investigation reveals broken connector between the motor and the drive mechanism. Connector is plastic part with 8 slot/rib internal spline Ok if you have a shaper or slotter and a rotary table not a bad job but tedious. but with a 3 d printer design and build in less than an hour while you drink coffee or grab a sandwich.
Link here.

http://www.soliforum.com/post/62449/#p62449

Tin
 
I got one for you. I was in the middle of casting up some parts for a job that needed to be shipped out on monday and the coupler on my vaccum pump failed. I tried zip tying it back together (yea that all most worked) and then thought you dummy theres a whole spool of couplers up stairs. So I went and modeled the part, printed it, and was back up and running in a couple of hours.



 
wow that looks familiar!!



...... and best buy is selling ABS filament.

Tin
 
It may be on line only and you have to key in the correct words but it is there . best buy is selling through E-BAy
Tin
 
Marlin a USA manufacturer of extruded PVC used for spiral notebooks retools to put them self in position to be the premiere USA manufacturer of PLA for 3-d printers. Company has been in busness for 12 years launches new pla line.

http://precision3dfilament.com/

Ok more checking Best buy does sell filament but looks like the local stores do not stock yet. Online ordering only and 5-7 days ship to store.

On the other hand Micro-center Actually stocks printers and filament the filament reasonably priced.
Closest for me St Davids PA 30 and off 476.
You may want to check it out Dave.



Tin ]
 
On the way ti kinzers I stopped by the St Davids Micro center And Picked up a couple rolls of pla . They have a nice selection of hobby electronics
I had to ask fo th PLA I wanted but was in stock as advertized.
Tin
 
This thread will be primary source material when the bug finally kicks in. Thanks Tin.

Jim
 
Well friends I have had the Soliddoodle4 for about a month now.
and solid doodle has just revamped the lineup.
The sd2 and SD 3 are discontinued and replaced with 3 new options.

http://www.solidoodle.com/
And the current retail on the SD 4 is now $599 .

Initial impressions the machine is fun to use.
as you can see successful prints after some learning.
The fact I have built a couple cnc machines and ran one for a year somewhat helpful the Idea of leveling the bed similar to tramming a mill but easier. and the z home swithch needs to be adjusted as this is critical to the first print layer.

The machine:
Appearance., the sd4 is a basic box style printer that gives a great first impression from its professional made looking case. most of the case is steel painted black and the door is injection molded plastic.
Mechanics. the basic setup of the SD4 is the same as the makerbot. But the materials are a little different. the SD4 bed plate holder is formed from sheet aluminum vs injection molded plastic on the MB. single motor screw actuated. z axis in the back of the machine. the scew is a 60 deg srew acme as found on the better machines would be an improvement. The Z stop adjuster is a good sized thumb wheel . The bed plate is a heated aluminum plate insulated underneath and leveled with three wing nuts. The 6 mm guide rods support and guide the 3 axis. (2 each) these are held in the frame by simple steel collars .The X and Y axis are powered by nema 14 motors and the Z and Ext ruder are nema 17 . I expected 17s all around but not a big deal.
X and Y axis are driven by timing belts. seem to work fine as long as tension is kept in adjustment.
The extruder is a simple deal but easy to change filament. a toothed pulley drives the plastic a bearing pushes against the plastic via a spring loaded lever. Press the lever to change /installl /remove filament. As with many of the reprap cousins there are many 3D printed parts used to assemble this machine Sd does not offer the files to print replacements but these are available through forums and thiniverse.
As with many / most hobby level entry level machine there is lots of room to upgrade


Things I have learned. All movements are in reference to the tool I should know this x and y is easy a -Z will shove the pint nozzle into your part an ruin it and twist the x axis guide rod. no harm just adjustment.
after a stupid crash figure out what moved adjust what moved not something else.
x axis twist easy to detect and adjust with a level. If your software is showing something that looks like a partial blue screen of death DO NOT HIT START !!! this will also case a crash as the software just lost its mind . reboot the software and start with fresh g code.

Some experts say that mainstream home 3d printing is 5 years away. That may be true before we see a plug a n play reliable affordable home machine.

I am a life long learner and my home shop is like a university engineering lab. I want to learn new technology and experiment.
And sometime it is just as important to know what does not work as well as what does.
Tin


. I may still build one more to my liking but I wanted needed a starting point. a base line if you will without spending a grand on a makerbot.
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