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Sprocket

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Dog takes us for a walk every morning. His usual has been about a mile and a half, but he turned 14 this summer and some days he turns around early. Especially if it’s hot.
My wife and I ride our bikes every other day on a road a short drive away.
It’s half paved and half dirt, but a lot less traffic than riding from home. Takes an hour to ride 14 miles. Pretty ride along the Winooski River, but being Vermont, it’s still up and down.
Got to keep moving.
And I worked on my engine. Got some pops out of it yesterday, rearranging some carb parts for propane. I’m not sure about the propane, still figuring stuff out.
Doug
 

Bentwings

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I felt like a bit of excercise this morning, most of the hard gardening work is done and I wanted a good walk. I decided to walk to Tesco which is about three miles away. I took a bottle of water and wore an anorak, and set off at 9.20. I stopped at the village shop and bought a small bar of chocolate for the journey. I got to Tesco about an hour later, I only wanted to buy some sandpaper type nail files for my 3D prints. I bought two packs with twenty files in each. I then started to walk home and popped into Morrisons for a bit of shopping. As I was leaving Morrisons I had an idea for improving the design of a small engine I am working on, and I had nothing to write or draw on! I kept mulling the idea over as I walked home. I got home at about midday. I put the kettle to make a much needed cup of coffee and poured the water into the cup. Shouldn't coffee be browner than this I thought. It helps if you actually put coffee into the cup as well as milk.
The new design is coming along very nicely. I was almost ready to 3D print the old design.
tragic .

I have a two point question, I have both straight and tapered 1/4-40 ME dies what size brass rod is best to thread with these


Part two I need 2/4-40ME HEX PLUGS , where can I purchase these I’ve looked all over prefer in USA. I have a piece of 10mm hex brass rod so I could drill it and cut it off then drill and tap for a threaded brass end I can loc tite or solder it I also have 10 mm hex nuts that drill and tap 1/4- 40 ME very easily so I could do the same but I need a suitable rod size I also have 1/4” diameter brass pipe that the dies work on I have soldered up the pipe but it’s more difficult than it sounds . I have used 6 mm rod before but I’m out of it right now. It would be easy on the lathe but it’s down for the near future . I looked fir some kind of core drill but could not find any . Very worst case I could hold an end mill in drill press vice and spin the hex rod into it but it’s a very shakey deal. Same note with tool bit . I’d even settle for plastic all it for is to plug excess ports in steam chests compressed air only at this point
 

Bentwings

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Dog takes us for a walk every morning. His usual has been about a mile and a half, but he turned 14 this summer and some days he turns around early. Especially if it’s hot.
My wife and I ride our bikes every other day on a road a short drive away.
It’s half paved and half dirt, but a lot less traffic than riding from home. Takes an hour to ride 14 miles. Pretty ride along the Winooski River, but being Vermont, it’s still up and down.
Got to keep moving.
And I worked on my engine. Got some pops out of it yesterday, rearranging some carb parts for propane. I’m not sure about the propane, still figuring stuff out.
Doug
Haha that’s funny about the coffee. I’ve forgotten your coffee in the basket a couple times nice hot wate for tea however.
 

Bentwings

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I fooled around all afternoon trying to figure out why the air was coming out of the exhaust pets I was going to move the eccentrics then discovered I had the outer steam chest lates on backwards. So I fixed that then I couldn’t get a jamb nut tight on the right angle fittings. Turns out the nut is smaller than the other jamb nuts of course I don’t have a wrench for them so I’ll cut a notch in my home made copper wrench . These also are the same hex the blank plugs in the bottom of the outer steam chests
I don’t quite follow why there are different hex plugs. I have a bag of brass hex NUTS that I just run the 1/4-40 ME tap in. I have 10 mm hex stock but I don’t have an easy way t o make plugs . I could put a end mill in the drill press vice and wiggle the vice position to allow turning hex stock down but it’s a very shaky operation at best I could cut some 1/4-40ME thread stock and solder it into the nut but I can see a whole after noon project here . Of course it is really hard to find 1/4- 40 ME plugs here so I’ll guess I’ll just have to “ make” some . Then my nice flex air hose kept blowing off OF COURSE I don’t have a 1/4-40ME to 1/4” hose barb or even a good clamp as the hose od is smaller. I may just put the old hose on temporarily For some reason the engine is much tighter than before . I took the cyl heads off and it looks ok with no scarring . I YHINK the piston valve rod packing is tighter . It’s not easy to get to the packing nuts either so I may just have to bite the bullet snd get after them . I even used fresh air tool oil that worked fine during assembly . If I can get the air hose to stay on I can up the pressure a bit . I only had about 20!psi when it first ran . I think I’ll take the heads off again and apply air to see when it going into the cyl and when the exhaust is opening my iston vale setting tool works great. I may just have the timing way off .
 

Bentwings

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lee,we’ll today was just a down day. I didn’t sleep well even after falling asleep watching another episode of designated survivor on net flix . Finally got the electrical connector set I needed to hook up the three “scale model electric generators . These have a male spade terminal so rather than just solder wits on the output terminals I decided to get quick disconnects so I could move them around as needed. Measuring the terminal I found they are 3mm. That’s pretty small. I foune d a set on Amazon pretty cheap complete with matching female connectors and shrink wrap. I thought it would be a good idea to make sure the terminals were indeed quick disconnect . Well, first the female connector wouldn’t go on easily the little dimple is too high . I could see forcing it might make it really hard to get off. That Ed correct . So I got out a pair and pushed them together . . They are coming apart easil. I also happened to get a mini adjustable wrench with thinned jaws. The connector just fits but still could not get them apart. I have a nipper style small cutter that also just fits By pulling very hard and very carefully I got hem apart. Then I took the nipper and gently flattens th dimple just a little how the pair are quick disconnect fit the motor perfectly . So I made up half a dozen pairs ready for wires the little plastic box had an extra pocket so I put the pairs the pairs in it . Problem solved 2 hours of screwing around . But I probably save diss assembly of a motor and possibly wrecked terminals . Some days you are just lucky . They were supposed to replace the street today while taking recycle stuff out I saw the paving crew down at the end of the block . The sky was getting dark fast . Forecast is for rain every day his week so they will be delayed . I’m goingvto work on my steamer tonight. It looks like I have a timing issue . I’ll take the cylinder head off and see if I see when the compression stroke starts . I measured the piston valves with my home made tool and they are maybe one thread difference . So I’ll try moving the eccentrics to get better timing . I’ll also oil the cylinders better recheck how difficult adjusting the packing is .

I did a lot of designs while walking the dog, so a good thing to do, and healthy too. I used to carry a small notebook and pen, then when I had a Palm Pilot (remember those?) I used the stylus drawing app from time to time. There's probably an app for my phone, but I'm retired and home a lot now and close to "real" paper and CAD on my computer and so forth.

I did go walking yesterday and had some shop-related thoughts, but kept losing the train of thought because of no sidewalks (pavements) and idiot drivers seeming to be bigger idiots these days.

--ShopShoe
 

Bentwings

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Back to model steam engines . Spent the whole day screwing around with valve timing . I’m obviously on the wrong track . Vince there are two cylinders on me crankshaft I can’t really set both exactly the same . As the timing is supposed to make it so each cylinder will fire 45 deg apart. Well easier dad than done so far . I’ve moved the eccentric time almost 90 deg either side. It seems like one cylinder is fighting he other as the engine seems to start turning then gets easier to Tate fly wheel backward . I’m going to split the air line so only one cylinder gets air and see if I just run on one cyl then try snd get the other working the same . I have much more pressure available but I should not need this as the engine should work on 25psi working correct I Then go after the other the same way.
Walked up to the gas station for milk so far it’s only 80 deg f to day bright sun brisk south wind . I got Amazon package . I haven’t even opened it yet . Don’t remember what it is . I had a wonderful in home nurse yesterday she helped do meds as they have changed Since my sister is going to be down for an extended time the nurse is going to try and line up a care person temporarily untill sis is back moving . This steamer has been a struggle from day one . Now that I have a depth setting gage I’ll be able to make piston valve location very accurately . I thought about making a mini degree wheel for eccentrics on each engine so I could have a permanent thing to work with . If I ever get this to run correctly then I’ll get more into this . I don’t have any place to start right now . I tried setting it as I did the vey first time it ran but it a no go still .

Been working on steam engines. I’m goingvto try test run later today . I got some interesting information on how the piston port valve works. My method might not work but I’ll be able to accurately position it where ever it needs to be . The ports are only about 1/8” diameter so the sharp too edge can open a significant proportion in very short distance . I could do some intricate math and make a percentage chart but I honk that’s too tedious. I just move the eccentric and piston some recorded amount and note results I can observe rpm vs pressure easily then measure the ost on valve position accurately . Then I can duplicate it across both engines once one runs ok .
My solid works does not have the fluid flow add on so I can’t model it . It will be “ that sounds or runs good” and be done with it precise won’t be necessary other than set up measurement .
 

cjstein_2000

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The coastal area of Thailand where I live experiences a similar micro-climate effect due to the ocean's thermal heat sink effect. Daily highs here in Rayong seldom go much over 35C, with 32C being much more typical; drive just 10 kilometers inland and temps will go up 4 or 5 degrees C. While it's common for central and northern Thailand to go over 40C during the summer months, the southern regions of Thailand, which are all coastal, benefit from the cooling effect of the breezes blowing over the relatively cooler ocean waters. Of course, Thailand is a tropical climate, so our temps never go below 18C.

BTW, good luck with your cars timing chain issues.
Hi I'm an Australian expat living in Prasat, I'm getting back into lie steam after a long absence. My background is engineering after spending 23 years teaching in Australia.
 

Toymaker

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Hi I'm an Australian expat living in Prasat, I'm getting back into lie steam after a long absence. My background is engineering after spending 23 years teaching in Australia.


Greetings CJ, and welcome back into the world of steam power. What size and type engine(s) are you planning to build? If you haven't already discovered, Thailand can be a bit frustrating trying to source everything from machines to supplies, and the language barrier further complicates finding what you're looking for, and some things simply are not available. So, be prepared to be both creative and flexible :cool:

BTW, which "Prasat" do you live in,...there are several in Thailand.
 

Bentwings

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I live in Midwest USA. ABOUT 12”” snow on the ground now -5deg f looks like about another inch last night . Maybe broom will bee enough rained then frozen so very slippery. -15 deg f in coming days possible windy . It will be dangerous to be out side my kitty is snuggled up in her kitty carrier. Input a light blanket over the top to keep heat in . She doesn’t like electric blanket . Has her own infra red heating pad on my bed
 

WisJim

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I live in Wisconsin, east of Bentwings I suppose, and we had about 6 inches of heavy wet snow that was like wet cement, followed by another half a foot the next couple of days, and now it's below zero (Fahrenheit). We're spending the Christmas holidays in Pueblo, Colorado, with a son and grandson and this morning it's cold and clear.
 

Bentwings

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Lucky you have. Merry Christmas from north of St. Paul

Currently it’s nothing out side 0 deg f . Light breeze no snow but goingvto get really cold shortly. I donated my favorite leather jacket but it was 35 years old and starting to show its age $ 400 + for a replacement .

Have quarterly doc apprentice shortly then INR. Blood test . Nice to get it all done in one day right at home too . I just got oncology review bill $1 per minute LOL $ 100 I’ll post a question after all this is done. . LI’m
 

Rocket Man

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I dug up 10 lbs of new Kennebec potatoes in the garden. Winter potatoes do better than summer potatoes. White color potatoes don't like 100°F hot blistering summer sun with almost no rain for 4 months. Red Color potatoes grow very well in summer 4 lbs of new potatoes per plant. We won't need to buy grocery store potatoes for 2 months.

100_6587.JPG
 

Bentwings

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All is well with doc appointment . Good to know .

Now question . I have 4 of these little steam turbines . They will turn 100 k with air tool oil. A guy posted a while ago that had the same one he was also running on compressed air the bearings came apart at about 100 k totally destroying the unit . These bearings seem to be sealed ball bearings I tried puttin a drop of air tool oil on them but it does not leak through . There is no lubrication port. I’ve run 50 k fo a brief Time and don’t see any temp rise . I don’t know the exact size but boca bearing has ceramic ball bearings that look like they would fit . I was thinking I could set these to tilt about 5 deg then depend on oil to run up the shaft similar to automotive rear axels or tap hole above bearings and us some 1/16” Rc airplane airline fittings for oil lines these turbines are not in a forever situation . They can drive motor/ generators pretty easily gearing or belt drives don’t have to put a lot of force on them I can also inject oil in the larger exhaust port . I have an airline lubricator but I just don’t know how much oil really gets to the bearings there are supposed to be center bearings by I have not taken one apart to see the Rc airplane fittings have to modified for Mal threads but I’ve already done that on another application so it’s possible 1/16” line is pretty small so not hard to make a oil line delivery system . You can hold these in your hand . I forgot to include measuring tool about 3.5” diameter .
 

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Bentwings

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That’s a bad one today I think it’s made in China or tiland at any rate not contactable I got them on Amazon they are still available there is one on eBay that has built in gear box driving model generator. I think for now I’ll just give them a small shot of air tool oil or marvel oil it goes a long ways on small tools . The airline oiler doesn’t really work that well the input air is not really high enough for real atomization of the e oil I boost air pressure but I think I’ll look more into a Venturi carb style injector they have a Finely adjustable liquid flow I can just exhaust ar into a condenser I think.
 

Ironman2

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Couldn't start my truck the other day, (06 Dodge diesel) checked fuses, checked clutch switch....still no cranky. It started in 10 ft when a friend gave me a tug, so I drove into the shop and went under it. The starter was there, in two pieces and the big fat conductor from the battery was about 1/8" away from contacting the block. That could have caused some excitement.
The starter is in a place that had me imagining beating the engineer who designed that with a welding ground cable. Almost no wiggle room to remove it. I then decided to look at other original equipment such as the front drive shaft. It needed to be rebuilt as the U joints were worn. I found a young and flexible guy to do it for me while I cheered him on. The starter and front drive line have 407,000km on them, the rear has had joints replaced, I think I pulled it out 4 years back.
Anyway, it is all done now and good for the next 16 years.
 
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Bentwings: Oil for high speed bearings is a difficult issue to engineer. The oil is doing 2 main purposes. Lubricating and slightly sliding surfaces within the ROLLING members and COOLING to whole bearing by conducting heat from hot spots to cooler zones within the bearing. BUT conversely the oil is being sheared by any 2 surfaces with oil between that are moving in different directions or at different speeds. An excess of oil can consume a lot of power (relatively) and generate unwanted heat.... You really want the lowest viscosity oil you can use, to minimise the heat generation from the presence of the oil. Not just an oil that is a mixture of lubricating oil and a "thinner" such as paraffin, etc. (Like 3-in-one, WD-40, etc.). Air-tool oil sounds good... if you can get good atomisation? Light Olive Oil may be good too? DERV: Diesel Engine for Road Vehicles also has high lubricity (to preserve and lubricate fuel pumps) and is a very light oil. I was taught that when re-building engines, washing with DERV (good lubricity) eliminates initial scuffing, but is no-good for painted parts, whereas Paraffin, petrol or "white spirit" (almost no lubricity) is good for parts to be painted, yet can cause initial scuffing when the engine is turned-over before oil supplies are fully primed. (Moving Parts were always well oiled with engine oil and molybdenum upon assembly as well of course).
I apologise for "teaching Grandpa old tricks"...
K2
 

Toymaker

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Bentwings: Oil for high speed bearings is a difficult issue to engineer.
<snip>
K2

Lots of satellites in orbit use gyros to help with stability and to gently turn the satellite in a different direction; the onboard gyros use full ceramic bearings because in the vacuum of space all lubricants either evaporate or are thrown off; even dry lubricants don't hold up very well in space.

So if Bentwings replaces the bearings with full ceramic there will be no need for any lubrication; just make sure the bearing encasement can carry away excess heat, and your good to go. Full ceramic bearings can be run dry.
 
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How about PTFE dust?
I have an aerosol spray can that sprays PTFE dust... instead of liquid oil lubricants...?
I can imagine it will lubricate, but not diperse heat from the bearing components.
K2
 

Toymaker

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How about PTFE dust?
I have an aerosol spray can that sprays PTFE dust... instead of liquid oil lubricants...?
I can imagine it will lubricate, but not diperse heat from the bearing components.
K2

Bearing "experts" say that since ceramics are non-porous, they run virtually frictionless, create very little heat, and can be run dry. I doubt if a little PTFE would do any harm to ceramic bearings, but I don't know if it would help.
 

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