Werowance builds a webster

Discussion in 'A Work In Progress' started by werowance, Dec 27, 2018.

Help Support HMEM by donating:

  1. May 15, 2019 at 7:00 AM #121

    minh-thanh

    minh-thanh

    minh-thanh

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2016
    Messages:
    437
    Likes Received:
    216
    Location:
    Viet Nam
    I don't know if this helps or...
    But I have a few times do the same method
    Lathe speed is slow and several times replace sandpaper upload_2019-5-14_9-7-11.png
     
  2. May 15, 2019 at 2:02 PM #122

    werowance

    werowance

    werowance

    Well-Known Member HMEM Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2011
    Messages:
    547
    Likes Received:
    164
    Thanks Minh Thanh, I actually took a very light skim cut to clean those swirl marks up. but just the regular tool marks left from the carbide tools are still there. although minute I got tired of sanding and wanted to try paint to see. I think it will look good. but the glue trick is something I had not thought of and is a very good idea
     
  3. May 15, 2019 at 2:04 PM #123

    werowance

    werowance

    werowance

    Well-Known Member HMEM Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2011
    Messages:
    547
    Likes Received:
    164
    marks like these are all I'm trying to hide now. very difficult to get in those corners. the outside ring is pretty shiny and smoothe because it was so much easier to get sand paper on

    upload_2019-5-15_9-4-0.png
     
  4. May 15, 2019 at 2:39 PM #124

    minh-thanh

    minh-thanh

    minh-thanh

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2016
    Messages:
    437
    Likes Received:
    216
    Location:
    Viet Nam
    I always use this sandpaper to flatten big scratch and then with 100, 150 sandpaper. if you want glossy: 400, 600 ...
    20190515_202716.jpg
    20190515_202347.jpg 20190515_202406.jpg
     
  5. May 16, 2019 at 2:05 PM #125

    werowance

    werowance

    werowance

    Well-Known Member HMEM Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2011
    Messages:
    547
    Likes Received:
    164
    the wrinkle paint turned out pretty good I think

    upload_2019-5-16_9-5-37.png
     
    Longboy likes this.
  6. May 16, 2019 at 9:12 PM #126

    Brian Rupnow

    Brian Rupnow

    Brian Rupnow

    Well-Known Member Project of the Month Winner

    Joined:
    May 23, 2008
    Messages:
    11,212
    Likes Received:
    3,921
    Werowance--I see where you are saying the "nut came loose on the arbor" causing the gouges in the face of your flywheel. Can you explain that a little more? Whenever I put holes in the flywheels I make, I set them directly on the mill table and hold them in place with toe clamps on opposite sides. If the relief in the sides of the flywheel is small and I am afraid of running my drill into the mill table when it breaks thru, then I put a 1/2" plate spacer between the flywheel and the mill table. I center the spindle over the flywheel bore and use ordinate dimensions to locate the x-y positions of the holes.
     
  7. May 16, 2019 at 9:33 PM #127

    werowance

    werowance

    werowance

    Well-Known Member HMEM Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2011
    Messages:
    547
    Likes Received:
    164
    i used an arbor like I would for say a slitting saw. it was actually left over from making the gear for the flywheel.
    so on my rotary table I already had the er32 collet chuck mounted in it so I just grabbed that left over arbor which was the exact size needed and put the fly wheel on it and sinched down the nut (or kind of sinched it down) just like I did when making the gear on that same arbor. then mounted it in the collet chuck on the rotary table. once in the proper position I was drilling every 120 degrees. (actually I didn't have a 3/4 drill but I did have a school surpless auction 3/4 inch end mill) so that's what I used. but I didn't have the nut tight on the end of the arbor so when the end mill touched it spun the flywheel.
     
  8. May 16, 2019 at 9:35 PM #128

    werowance

    werowance

    werowance

    Well-Known Member HMEM Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2011
    Messages:
    547
    Likes Received:
    164
    an arbor like this one, I just removed the gear and put the fly wheel on. it was actually the arbor for the small 24 tooth gear that I was using on the flywheel
    upload_2019-5-16_16-35-1.png
     
  9. May 16, 2019 at 10:38 PM #129

    Brian Rupnow

    Brian Rupnow

    Brian Rupnow

    Well-Known Member Project of the Month Winner

    Joined:
    May 23, 2008
    Messages:
    11,212
    Likes Received:
    3,921
    When you are cutting a gear, it puts very little torque into the rotary table. When you turn the rotary table so the spindle is pointing up vertically and then drill a hole offset from the centerline, it puts a lot of torque into the rotary table. I don't know if you have a DRO on your mill to let you use X-Y coordinates for drilling like I do or not. in fact I can't remember how the flywheel holes were dimensioned on the original drawings or not. EDIT---I just checked the original drawing and no ordinate dimensions are given, just the angle between the holes. Unless you have a softwear drawing package or are a geometry whiz, I can see where you had no choice but to do it with the rotary table.
     
  10. May 17, 2019 at 1:57 PM #130

    werowance

    werowance

    werowance

    Well-Known Member HMEM Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2011
    Messages:
    547
    Likes Received:
    164
    Thanks Brian, to keep the angle preasure down I put the arbor all the way in the collet so the flywheel is actually resting against the collet. sometimes if need be I will stack a few washers between collet and flywheel if there isn't enough room for break through vs damage to collet from the break through. but not having it stick up in the air like the picture of me cutting the gear gives the fly wheel more support. so it doesn't want to lean when putting the down force of the drill on once side. and I don't have a functioning dro. I did purchase a cheap I-gauging dro a while back and it lasted about a month or so and was very inaccurate. often it would jump 1 or 2 inches just by moving say 1/4 inch so I never trusted it but it finally just quit working all together.

    getting along slowly with things - something I was not looking forward to, the press fit of the gear to the flywheel, well it went perfect. maybe just a little bit to tight but the arbor press pushed it home. I used that 638 locktight you recommended. its like a gel instead of runny like the normal locktight I'm used to. makes it a lot easier to apply.

    but that's all the time I had for fun stuff last night.

    upload_2019-5-17_8-55-2.png
     
    bill70j likes this.
  11. May 18, 2019 at 1:20 AM #131

    Brian Rupnow

    Brian Rupnow

    Brian Rupnow

    Well-Known Member Project of the Month Winner

    Joined:
    May 23, 2008
    Messages:
    11,212
    Likes Received:
    3,921
    That's a bit weird. My 638 Loctite is not a gel. It is runny.
     

Share This Page