tore it down to clean it and then seal the crank case. the plans said to not bother sealing it until you had it running. also made a cover for the cam shaft on the flywheel side. the plans said that was optional but figured it was an easy part and the fewer leaks the better.
while i had it apart i used engine parts cleaner spray to clean it up and all the black paint on the cylinder ran off. i read the instructions on the vht paint and DOH its a ceramic based that has to be baked on. so basicly its like powder coat that wasnt cured yet. and i cant bring it up to 600 deg to cure it so ill just clean what little didnt run off and find some pot belly black as Brian suggested. another lesson learned
but while it is appart i inspected the break in wear. everything looks great. just a little shiny spots on the tappets, no wear on the crank or rod and the cylinder looks good.
I had a BSA B31 sounded much the same! Made me smile just to hear your engine. Well done and thanks for the extra effort of posting the build. It is much appreciated! (Especially as daytime tv is so poor during pandemic lock-in time).
so i have been preparing for this weekend to attempt to andodize the large base plate. .... i failed. it did in places turn gold/yellow/orange. whatever that base uncollored anodize finish is on aluminum. but it did not cover it all. 2 hours and extremely degreesed didnt cut it. right now i plan to paint the base plate black insted of anodize id. but i have saved the electolite for learning on another date. that said the base plate is polished up alot more than it was and should take paint better now after the acid bath.
next thing i want to do is a pull cord handle. i want to cross drill half way through and then from the end dill through to that hole and tap to a set screw i will actually drill through the end and ream enough to put a piece of small drill rod through to tie the rope onto and then partially drill and tap that same end to put in a allen head screw into to keep that rod in place. that way i wont have to cross drill all the way through and can have a hidden hole on the rope side. guess if it works ill have to post a pic to show what im talking about
engine all sealed up and finishing up on paint, reassembly and such.
lasered a name plate for it. a few more screws back in and such and then on to finishing up a better spark plug wire connector for it.
The pull start works extremely well. or at least compared to the Webster with the rubber wheel. when I recommended the rubber wheel to you I had not finished this one up. its awesome easy to get it started. a couple of light pulls to prime it and a couple pulls to start it. just a little annoying to wind the cord but I recall doing it on weed eaters and such in the early 80's and how much I hated doing it then. but in this case I was happy to do it but I don't know if it will work on the Webster or not. 3/4 vs 7/8 bore but I would think it probably would.
finished up the spark plug adapter, in the video it gets loose because i put a lot of dielectric grease in it. after i cleaned it up that stays put as it should.
last pics and video before i post it in completed section and then put it on the shelf
and final un edited video which shows the plug adapter getting loose. which is fixed after cleaning out the dielectric grease. and i should say the jb weld took care of the loose exhause and carb after getting hot.
the spark plug adapter is made from a vacume line conector with a ball point pen spring in it screwed onto the brass full size spark plug tip duplication i made from brass. dont fill with dielectric grease, it makes it fall off. once dry of grease it hangs on great
and on the poor video i do like the fact you can see the points arcing. not sure thats a good thing but i have seen points arc like that before on other full size engines when working on them. but lighting was just right so it will show it later in the video