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Werowance attempts Upshur Vertical Single

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Brian Rupnow

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I use a 0.039" drill for the hole, which is 1 millimeter, and use a piece of 1 mm drill rod to fit in the hole. A 1/16" hole thru a 3/32" valve stem is not a good idea.---Brian
 

Sprocket

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Agree with Brian.. 1/16" is too big. I've used .040" safety wire in 1/8" valve stems and it looks as though it fits there. But hey, try it on a scrap and see what you think.
Doug
 

werowance

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thanks all for the suggestions. found several partial packs of wire size drills from when I used to etch and design a lot of my own circuit boards. have a bunch of 65, 66 and 67 drills some dull which would be nice to use as the actual cross pin and the good one to drill the hole with. but I'm going to make a few test drills and just see what looks right much like sprocket ssaid
 

werowance

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just 1 keeper left to go. its in the chuck about half way done....
1604931039610.png
 

werowance

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now about the carb, im not a big fan of its design, alot of sliding fit parts not tight and i feel vibration will be a constant issue with keeping it adjusted, or even keeping it attached. i was wondering if anyone had some good suggestions on another type of carb? the bore of the carb is .187 and i hav looked at chuck fellows which is much larger, so is the store bought carb i used on the webster.
 

werowance

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i found a version of Chuck Fellows carb with a .15625 bore. thats closer than some of the versions i have seen which were much larger or smaller. do you think .15625 is close enough to .187 to run the engine ok? i like the design much better than the upshur one
 

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werowance

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and no sooner did i post that i found Chucks original post that said it works well for engines 3/4 to 1 inch bore. which the upshure is 3/4. so i guess question answered - but will gladly accept any advice anyone has as well.
 

awake

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FWIW, I too found two different versions of Chuck's carb ... and I wound up splitting the difference and using a throat opening of .140. It has been working well on my Webster, with a .875" diameter cylinder.

1605115021024.png
 

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Art K

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What I have found on my Upshur after using 2 Perry carbs and the single jet carb in the drawings. The stock carb was fine but. If you ran it at a higher rpm you had to open up the jet, then close it to idle. A .198 Perry was to big, yes it ran but, if you opened the throttle to fast it would die. Same if you opened to far. Perry's .178 carb ran the best. But then you probably aren't going to try for 7000rpm either so the stock carb may work just fine.
Art
 

werowance

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so i havnt given any updates lately and unfortunatly i dont have pictures to show any progress.

but here is where im at.

1. realized i needed to know the inside dia of the intake tube to make the carb to match
2. found a roll of aluminized steel brake line that was the perfect size hanging on the wall from fixing my old farm use truck
3. found out that this stuff doesnt bend easily, doesnt solder at all guessing from the aluminum content idk. but the very best tightest bend i got was from packing sand in it and sealing off with hot glue. learned that one fromm utube. but it made a good bend without caving in. i was using a brake line bending tool as well.
4. ended up using the best brake line bend to mae an exhaust header. ill post a pic before i commit that as a permanent change - aka lock tight it in place. for recomendations but i felt it look sort of "right" for the engine but not convinced
5. since the brake line wouldnt work and since i didnt have brass tube or copper tubein the right size i had to make it, then solder the end cap on as well as both tubes together to make a 90deg pipe. sounds simple but took 3 tries and spilled acid on the shop concrete floor. not much maybe a 1/4 of a small chipped beef jar from armour worth but i used a box of backing sodda to neutralize and rinsed thouroghly. it was just muratic acid so no a major deal. cleaned the floor pretty good even. - use the muratic for just a min or 2 to clean flux as per manufacturer sheets. not supposed to use for a long time
6. all pipes and pluming are done with exception to some length trimming to be done once carb is done.
7. carb body had a pretty good start on it. tried doing it on the mill part of my combi machine with a boring head but that didnt work, switched to 4jaw and spent a long time getting that hole centered and then cut the intake neck as well at cut the taper on the intake cause i already had the dbit to do it


and last but not least. im using awakes in betweeen version of chuck fellows carb. pretty much the same as both of his version but sized in the middle. so awake- thank you for sharring

hope to have more pics and less words soon
 

werowance

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oh and should add 8 or actually the first thing of it all i did was square up a small piece of brass for the carb body. which took some time, my band saw blade has develiped a crack in it so had to go slow and easy on the scrap part. in the end it all worked and all fingers and toes and such are still good. then milled it square.
 

scottyp

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I reviewed your Webster thread as before I built my Webby and since I am starting an Uphsur Vert I thought I should check in here. Yours is looking good and you are getting close.
 

stanstocker

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I'd say the upswept exhaust looks "unexpected" but sort of cool. Heck, it's your engine, if it makes you happy and works well that's all that matters. It isn't as though this is a museum model seeking perfect accuracy to some original. If folks can put tuned chromes pipes and flappers on a wheelhorse mower for yucks you can do whatever you please :) After living with it for a while you can change it if you decide it's not right, or that you're glad you added your own little touch and leave it alone.
 

werowance

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well on the exhaust pipe, its leftover from trying to get a tight 90 deg bend for the carb, but the plans call for a straight out of the head pipe. rememering back to a move i saw when i was young, cheech and chong "twice pipes" lol

well im thinking the leftover attempt of the carb up pip from brake line doesnt look right, but i dont like the straight unbent pipe of the plans. maybe some flared chrome tips lol. or a big black smoke stack out of the truck bed.... some of you may not get that joke as i dont know how far that fad had spread out into the world.... aka putting a stove pipe in the bed of you diesel truck.
 

werowance

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FWIW, I too found two different versions of Chuck's carb ... and I wound up splitting the difference and using a throat opening of .140. It has been working well on my Webster, with a .875" diameter cylinder.

View attachment 120762
i should say that if you have a stove pipe in your truck bed, no problem with except they rust out really quick.


next i have a few questions. Awake, on your drawings as well as Mr. Fellows plans, on the jet, the holes appear to be flat bottom. im hopeing not. i realize most plans draw it like that but dont really mean flat bottom.

NEXT AND A ROOKIE QUESTION - SORRY, but when measuring a blind drill hole that is not flat bottom. do you measure from the sharp point of the bit or from when the flutes start? assuming from the tip?

and then on the needle. we have a large assortment of darning needles here at werowance mansion estates (just kidding) but none of them give a # like a drill would. closes i have is .048 untill you hit the thread hole where it spreads to what i can best tell is between .050 and .051.

my question is since i cant seem to find a pack of darning needles labled as a number #18. where would i need to measure the .050 dia at? mid shaft?
 

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