Werowance attempts Upshur Vertical Single

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werowance

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well build on hold for a week or so.... maybe I can 3d print a stand or base or something in the mean time



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werowance

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got burned. even blistered the tip of my nose and the corner of my lips. hand is just one giant nasty liquid filled blister....

had a bag full of greasy oily and gas soaked shop rags from cleaning out the metal form the stearing box on my farmall when repairing a broken retaing clip. threw them in the outdoor wood boiler which I use for hot water this time of year. shut the door. came back about 10 or so mins later and threw a stick of wood in it for the night. the gas had fumed up inside and when the stove wood hit the smoldering coals it sparked up and goes boom with may arm half way in the fire box and the side of my face in the path of the fire ball.

now I know better than that but I just didn't think.... stupid me and a good reminder,
 

Brian Rupnow

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Jaysus Boy--Keep the fire in the stove where it belongs!!! You have my sympathy--I've had a couple of nasty burns over my working life, and I know how it hurts.---Brian
 

Art K

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Hey, do what the doctors tell you to do and don't push it. Heal up fast!
Art
 

Art K

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Well, that's not a pretty picture but presumably they all wiggle and bend where they aught to.
Art
 

werowance

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well started picking up where I left off last night and 1. I couldn't find my big adjustable wrench I use for the er32 collet chuck as well as the qctp so I had a time getting the er32 removed so I could put the 3 jaw on. shop faries must have hidden it while I was out.

then remembered that I still had a spacer or 2 to make to center the crank over the cylinder. which brings a question, I see no easy way to measure to get the rod centered in the cylinder so what I did was to rotate the crank until the rod found where it wanted to ride in the piston on the wrist pin which appeared to be by eye to be centered and that's where it wanted to move to when running it by hand. after that I used feeler gauges to measure the gap between the gear anf crank web and the gear and ball bearing and made 2 spacers. the last spacer on the other side will be easy once I have the opposite side spaced where it needs to be. does this sound ok? other suggestions?

then I made a dew quick cleanup passes on some cast iron to start making rings.

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Art K

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When I originally made mine, I had no CAD or CNC mill and I made shims to center the crank. In my rebuild I did everything in cad to the center line of the case. Hopefully it will come out as expected, Dead center. I still haven't heard from my nephew about the computer rebuild for my mill.
Art
 

werowance

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on vacation this week and am doing all sorts of canning and garden work. did find time to get some rings done. started to install them but plans say "do not install at this time" so im holding.
the technique i used said the rings would fall when hot enough. they do not. not unless i melt them. but i heated to a bright red and held them there for a bit. then let them naturally cool. they held the shape and springyness (technical term). i filed the gap on one of them and tested it in the cylinder. i think the technique works great. i used a dull file handle which happened to be the right thickness for spreading the gap as per plans. 4 rings and only 2 needed. so i have some spares just incase.

last photo was before snaping them and heat treating them. all but the first one which was my test but was successfull.

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werowance

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while waiting on some more stock to arrive so I can start on the head I decided to start on the rocker arm post. not much to it really. didn't have any brass square stock so I used a piece of round, turned down the shaft portion that will insert into the head. left it a bit long so I can put it in the collet chuck currently attached to my rotary table, then I will mill the large end into a square shape. all I got done was making the small shaft end last night and test fitting it in a reamed hole in a test plate I use for that.
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werowance

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last night switched my combo lathe over for milling and put the rotary table down and squared that up then started milling the larger end down to a square end. only got 2 side started which i will end up taking each side down a little at a time until i hit the mark.

22 full and then 10 holes rotation to get 90 degrees on my 20 hole indexing plate.

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werowance

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finished the rocker post (will cut off the shank when i have a head to see how long i can leave it) and started on the head. plan to leave a "handle" on the bottom of the head so i can hold it in the rotary table in an er32 chuck so i can drill the 4 head bolt holes and such

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werowance

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still working on the head but im trying to figure out the cooling fin situation in the plans. drawing says to use a .312R cutter as well as a .531R cutter. appears to be a slitting saw however it does not say for sure. the instructions page also does not clarify this either. width is .090 typ for the cut and instructions page does say that a more common .093 cutter can be used if spaced properly. that part i do understand but my slitting saws as well as any slitting saw i find for sale are of the proper diameters. so looks like maybe he used something else to make these cuts? looking for how others did it. did they use end mills or what? or perhaps these are common size diameter slitting saws and i just am not looking at the right place to buy them or something.

any help, suggestions or tips are appreciated.

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