wall 4 valve timing.

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You could put a degree wheel on the crankshaft and watch the valve lifters or the valves themselves and very quickly determine if crank / cam timing is correct...

Just a thought

Yes, as suggested in #16.

Below is one of the many charts I draw up to grind my cams.
This particular one is for a flat crank 4 cylinder. ( might help you out...)
 

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What a happening ! I just 2 days ago took photos of the blueprints, I have for a Elmer Wall 4 cylinder inline flat head engine. I also own one, but not the same as the prints. The main difference is the distributor ! My engine is on YouTube, running. Now I have a question. My engine has a full circle crank. Was that a special crank because the prints show a crank with no counter weights ? Thanks in advance
 
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I believe you are correct that it was special, mine is flat. you had helped me with mine a few years back before when my account name was matterest. My engine does not run as well as yours tho
 
I believe you are correct that it was special, mine is flat. you had helped me with mine a few years back before when my account name was matterest. My engine does not run as well as yours tho

My engine when I got it did not have any compression at all. I took the pan off & spent much time cleaning it out. Used a tooth brush even. Rinsed the insides out with clean fuel & blew out that with compressed air. I lubed the internal parts & placed the pan & spark plugs back together. Then I added Klotz 2 cycle lube to the correct level. Then re-built a ignition system. The engine then did have enough compression too start. The more I ran it & tuned it the compression got higher & higher. I use Klotz oil in all my small engines. They all gained more compression. The good thing is there is no carbon build up, as I have been running one engine at shows for 10 years. Cleaned the spark plug only once. My Kavan 50 twin the same way !!!!
 
I use Klotz 100% pure synthetic Techniplate oil. SAE 20W Grade 60. It has very good body to it. Where does your engine leak oil? Got 6 Quarts of it....should last as long as I live !
 
I'm really not sure where it's leaking I know it comes out the gear cover but that's my fault( I need to make an oring to seal the shaft, I screwed up the original casting and 3d printed a new one with a modification to removel the miter gears.)
I think it is leaking out the bottom part of the crankcase I guess that would be the oil pan?
 
My engine has a small amount of oil that seeps near each valve lifter...not a real problem at all. I just wipe it off after I run it for the day I show it. I did build a advance rod that connects the throttle lever to the distributor arm. That really works sweet ! I sometime may place a full electronic ignition on it. Not right away, I had surgery on my left hand & it is just workable more than 3 years later...but not much feeling in it.
 
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