Wall 4 cylinder 50cc distributor question

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ok so today i found a hole(casting deformation) which runs from the intake to the exhaust. do you think this will effect its running? i finally got around to ordering a set of plans!!!!!
 
ok so today i found a hole(casting deformation) which runs from the intake to the exhaust. do you think this will effect its running? i finally got around to ordering a set of plans!!!!!



Sounds like it will. Can you post pictures of the defect. I'm sure there is a solution.
 
Ugh you mean I have to take he head off again :p ok here ya go

1398528041415.jpg


1398528061781.jpg
 
i am attempting to plug the hole/s with jb weld but im doubtful it will withstand the heat. what else would you suggest?
thanks,
matt
 
Maiierst. I have Wall 4 that I run a 5' R/C boat that had the same problem. I cleaned it out then took a 1/16 dia. punch and packed teflon tape in, That is tapped it in This was 56 yrs. ago. I have run this boat yr. after yr. Capt,n John has seen a video of it runnig. I have made a number of the 4,s. Casting from Wall Labs,Coles models,when the Cole family still owned the com. It seemed to happen on the number 1 cyl, do to the fact it always looked like that was a vent end and sand would find way to that corner of the pore. Teflon tape was quite new back then, one of my friends gave a roll of it told me what thay used it for, a hole new world.
 
Ok thanks, how did you hold the Teflon in? Have you ever had to replace it?
Thanks, matt
 
Good morning Matterest: I'm sorry I did't go into a little more detail. What I use for a punch is 1/16 dia music wire with a flat end, then lightly tap and pack the teflon in until it is tight. I've had to do this a number of times with these casting always in the same ex. port some time the intake port as well. About 6 yrs. ago I thought I needed do a ring job all was ok, but I it defintly needed a valve job, I was curious to see if the packing was ok, looked good to me. still runnig the boat and engine as I always have very hard. I guess just dumb luck. Regards Red
 
anyone have any experience with model t buzz coils on this engine? have every thing hooked up right i think, but the buzzerthingie wont stop buzzering! :confused:
 
The distributor will not turn on its own if you add a rod from throttle lever to the lever on the distributor. It will advance the spark as you open the throttle. That seems to work real nice on my engine. Capt,n John
 
It is supposed to buz when electric is applied to it. The Hi voltage goes out of buz coil to the center post of the distributor, then jumps off the rotor to the 4 posts inside the distributer that will cause spark to each plug. Not the best ignition to use on the Wall engine. Capt,n
 
i am attempting to plug the hole/s with jb weld but im doubtful it will withstand the heat. what else would you suggest?
thanks,
matt

There is some aluminum rod you can get & it is melted in place using a map gas torch. You can weld aluminum cans together & make many repairs on aluminum with it. Harbor freight may have it. Good luck. Capt,n :)
 
like this?

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zu-VZ5K79pY[/ame]

Cheers Garry
 
I am working on a Holt 4 cylinder engine now. About 75% done. Is there any postings on the Holt engine? I may start a thread about them. Thanks, John:)
 
I was just think about this wall engine today, my engine Is very stiff. I tried turning it over in my lathe to losses it up, but it didn't help is there a way to "accelerate brake in"
 
I think i may have figured it out the first cylinder is not getting spark. I think if I remake the part of the distributor that makes contact and rotates It should help.
 
If you can take a couple of photos & post them, we could help out much faster. Did you find out why the engine turns over hard? Is the compression to high or tight pistons or bearings? Capt,n John
 
I think it was a gasket I had made was pressing on the timing gears when I removed that it was loose
 

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