VFD Wiring

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Gordon

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There are no switches on the unit and I cannot get to a programming mode. When the unit is connected to input power the cooling fan starts and runs for about 10 seconds and the display shows 400 and none of the buttons do anything. I tried a jumper for the for and rev but nothing happens. I contacted the eBay seller and he has not responded. I have requested a return. I am about 99% sure that the unit is DOA.
 

ignator

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There are no switches on the unit and I cannot get to a programming mode. When the unit is connected to input power the cooling fan starts and runs for about 10 seconds and the display shows 400 and none of the buttons do anything. I tried a jumper for the for and rev but nothing happens. I contacted the eBay seller and he has not responded. I have requested a return. I am about 99% sure that the unit is DOA.
400 is not a error code, I suspect this is set for 400Hz, does rotating the speed knob change this value?
If none of the membrane keys do anything, I suspect you are correct in this being DOA.
I've purchased from this company many times, they have name brand drives;
https://dealerselectric.com/230V-si...id=28149&pgID=1&SortBy=PriceAsc&GdPageSize=20

The above link is for all drives of 2HP, from low to high costs.
 

ignator

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I see your drive does not have a speed pot attached. The 400 does not make sense as I'm pretty sure without a remote 3 wire potentiometer attached, it should command zero speed, not 400 Hz. But everything should be controllable from the membrane keyboard on a new unit, unless this was a used unit sent back to the seller and has parameters messed up.
 

Nick Hulme

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Buy based on quality and support, you'll actually be better off in the long run. I just had a Siemens Micromaster Vector VFD fail, it's about 20 years old and was ex-industrial when I bought it about 15 years ago, Siemens still offer all the documentation for it in good, clear, comprehensive detail in good clear English.
 
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Not all VFD accept an external braking resistor. I'm going to take the Siemens note under advisement as many manuals are written using as few words as possible and take a considerable ammount of back and forth cross referencing. Keep notes in the back. Even though there are no controls on the face, don't assume the VFD doesn't still need to be programmed for external control.
On mine, all the buttons are NO momentary close except the stop that is NC. I have my stop wired through three series switches located in strategic places should others find they need to stop the machine.
 

ksor

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Hi there !

It's a hell og a job to configure such a VFD - I found out you get MUCH more understanding of what facilities it has if you read the manual - I think time reading is a good investment !

These days I'm alfa/beta-testing my change of motor and elektric installation on my old russian Stanko 1A616 from 1962.

More details here in danish but you can Google Translate to the right just under the menu line - choose whatever language you like in the combobox - within an hour there is a video showing my test setup and the schematic for the control box - take a look:

https://kelds.weebly.com/skifte-motor-paring-drejebaelignk.html
 

cds4byu

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I'm working on a VFD setup for my Enco lathe which has a similar schematic diagram to most of the chinese lathes. I also have an HY VFD like you reference.



I have been sidetracked by other projects, so I haven't made my schematics yet. I'll try to put together a sketch in the next couple of days and post it here.

Carl

Here's my blog post that describes the wiring of my lathe. The existing controls now work with the VFD.

https://13x40.blogspot.com/2018/11/adding-vfd-to-my-enco-13x40-lathe.html

HTH,

Carl
 
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OK Thanks. I have that. My question was mainly whether the contacts would be momentary and if the existing panel controls have to be disabled.
Gordon, the answer is in the lower left of the diagram Thomas posted. What it shows us that all the control functions are powered by the " DCM" lug to the normally open (NO) momentary closed switch (button) to the control lug shown . The top one in the diagram is forward. For the speed pot, the "AI" in my VFD is for digital input. The other 3 are for typically a 10 ohm "pot". I know pots have a standard configuration, but not knowing what it is I just used a multi-meter to figure them out. Hopefully yours isn't DOA or this will help with your next one. Learning about the buttons/switches was an education. The better ones are two separate things, allowing for guarded buttons on say the start or reverse. The switches are often duel NO/NC depending on which lugs you use. Get shielded wire, easy to find on eBay, just be sure to get the number of wires you need.
 

Gordon

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Finally got a replacement VFD. First one was indeed DOA. So the new one is up and running. I have had an old VFD on the drill press for a few years so with the new success I decided to take another look at that one. That unit has the fan running continuously as soon as power is applied. So my question is whether it is OK to just start and stop the VFD by applying power and cutting power to start and stop the drill press. That can mean a lot of powering up and powering down the VFD. I have it wired that way now and it works OK for my use but I am wondering if I am damaging the drive by the frequent start/stop.
 

ignator

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Finally got a replacement VFD. First one was indeed DOA. So the new one is up and running. I have had an old VFD on the drill press for a few years so with the new success I decided to take another look at that one. That unit has the fan running continuously as soon as power is applied. So my question is whether it is OK to just start and stop the VFD by applying power and cutting power to start and stop the drill press. That can mean a lot of powering up and powering down the VFD. I have it wired that way now and it works OK for my use but I am wondering if I am damaging the drive by the frequent start/stop.
If your switching the unit on and off by a power input switch to the drive, and have it programed to start automatically, that has deleterious effect on the electrolytic capacitors. The long term damage from surge charging current from a high count input power switching, is something to be avoided. I doubt they have charging circuits in these low cost VFDs.
On my drill press the VFD is mounted to the left side of the cast iron head. I just use the on off VFD control panel buttons, and the speed pot on the drive. I was not sure if your drive has the speed pot on the front panel, but looking at the manual the photo shows this.
 

Gordon

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If your switching the unit on and off by a power input switch to the drive, and have it programed to start automatically, that has deleterious effect on the electrolytic capacitors. The long term damage from surge charging current from a high count input power switching, is something to be avoided. I doubt they have charging circuits in these low cost VFDs.
On my drill press the VFD is mounted to the left side of the cast iron head. I just use the on off VFD control panel buttons, and the speed pot on the drive. I was not sure if your drive has the speed pot on the front panel, but looking at the manual the photo shows this.
I was afraid of that. Back to the way it was wired before. I was trying to eliminate the fan running when the drill press was not running. Thanks for the input. The unit on the drill press is a ABB Mini. If there is a way to shut off the fan I have not found it.
 

XD351

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You can put a thermal switch in the wiring for the fan that will turn the fan on at a set temp , i watched a youtube video on this a few weeks ago but the hardest thing was getting the damned unit apart as they are not designed to be disassembled easily ! Like a lot of Chinese made gear they seem to like using small noisy fans for some reason , on my 3D printer this noise was unbearable so i fitted a bigger better quality and more importantly quieter fan - the cnc engreaver is next !
 

ignator

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I was afraid of that. Back to the way it was wired before. I was trying to eliminate the fan running when the drill press was not running. Thanks for the input. The unit on the drill press is a ABB Mini. If there is a way to shut off the fan I have not found it.
Have you looked through the manual for the ABB drive? What is the full model number of this. I thought you got the replacement for the HuanYang that arrived dead. That does not have a program parameter to control any fan function. Other drives may have this.
 

EJay

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Hello to everyone,

I new to this site. I recently bought a teco VFD (p/n L510-203-h1-u) for my Enco 13x40 engine lathe. Does anyone have a schematic? I'm a machinist by trade. Not an electrician. So any help would be appreciated. I pulled off the front switch panel. There is a red(activates the motor switch),dark blue(activates green start button),light blue(activates coolant pump), and pink((hot wire which is ran thru all switches) which are ran to a buss bar on the back side of lathe. Can I hook up off the buss bar? Or should be hooking up on the other side of the contractors? I still having a hard time to decifering the wiring for the forward/reverse lever and the foot brake. Thanks for the help.
 

ignator

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Hello to everyone,

I new to this site. I recently bought a teco VFD (p/n L510-203-h1-u) for my Enco 13x40 engine lathe. Does anyone have a schematic? I'm a machinist by trade. Not an electrician. So any help would be appreciated. I pulled off the front switch panel. There is a red(activates the motor switch),dark blue(activates green start button),light blue(activates coolant pump), and pink((hot wire which is ran thru all switches) which are ran to a buss bar on the back side of lathe. Can I hook up off the buss bar? Or should be hooking up on the other side of the contractors? I still having a hard time to decifering the wiring for the forward/reverse lever and the foot brake. Thanks for the help.
EJay; Welcome to this forum.
Do you have a schematic for your lathe?
You NEVER want to switch the outputs of a VFD, it can result in permanent damage to the output transistors.
So you want to integrate the VFD, using the FWD/REV micro switch signals from the traveling carriage control. You still want to keep the safety system in place of the lathe, so that it has to be in the not FWD not REV position before you can start the main lathe power up.
So you need to start at the wiring diagram for the lathe. You did not post a model number of your Enco lathe. See if you can find one online. If you have this, please scan it in and insert in this post.
Also that is a good VFD for this task.
 

EJay

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I have an 111-310 enco lathe .model 1340. I would like to hook up before the contractors(maybe called a coil??). But not sure were to tie into it. The schematic that came in the owners manual is pretty much worthless. It only shows the wiring pertaining to R,S,T (coming from the junction box to the main contractor)and U,V,W( going to the motor). I bought the teco L510-203-H1-U.
 

cds4byu

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I have schematics for adding a VFD to the 13x40 so that the regular lathe controls work normally. You can see my post here: 13x40.blogspot.com

Let me know if you need more information.

Carl
 

cds4byu

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Hello to everyone,

I new to this site. I recently bought a teco VFD (p/n L510-203-h1-u) for my Enco 13x40 engine lathe. Does anyone have a schematic? I'm a machinist by trade. Not an electrician. So any help would be appreciated. I pulled off the front switch panel. There is a red(activates the motor switch),dark blue(activates green start button),light blue(activates coolant pump), and pink((hot wire which is ran thru all switches) which are ran to a buss bar on the back side of lathe. Can I hook up off the buss bar? Or should be hooking up on the other side of the contractors? I still having a hard time to decifering the wiring for the forward/reverse lever and the foot brake. Thanks for the help.

You will want to change your wiring in the control box on the back of the lathe, rather than the front switch panel. I have a schematic for the necessary changes for two different types of VFD on my blog. I think that your TECO uses the same wiring diagram as the AskPower listed on my blog.

If you have the manual for your lathe, it should have a wiring diagram, and you can see if it is the same as on my blog post. I'd be happy to review your schematic if you'd like.
Carl
 

dazz

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Hi
I haven't read all the posts but I just want to reinforce a couple of points.
Firstly, don't expect to reuse any of the existing control and protection circuitry. You should aim to reuse the hands-on switches, but not the relays, fuses and other stuff.
Secondly, there is no substitute for reading and understanding the manual. This especially includes understanding what you can't do, or don't need to do.


This image is the control and protection fitted to the Denford Viceroy for an ABB VFD. None of the electrical components are original.
IMG_4699.JPG

A video of the finished Denford Lathe VFD Conversion

Here is a photo of the new control system for the Nardini lathe.
You can see from the hanging wires that this is still work in progress. This was quite early on when I started wiring. There is a lot more in there now.

The VFD is an industrial grade Yaskawa. It took me two weeks to work my way through all the different settings plus another week of testing to confirm everything.

Here is the original control and protection for the Nardini. All of this is gone.
IMG_3954.JPG

VFDs are not plug and play (at least the good ones aren't). There is a significant amount of work required to install one properly.


Dazz
 

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