Uh, Oh! How is is going down there?

[kcmillin]

I just got The Grizzly 10 x 22 g0602. (Oh yes, I am excited) It weighs in at a hefty 300 plus pounds as is.

Here it is awaiting the treacherous trip into the basement.

And it has to go here.

Any Ideas? This is more of a ladder than a staircase, and the lack of a landing is going to be troublesome.

I am thinking about getting a chain hoist and connecting it to the rafters. It will have to go down in the vertical position.

Is it OK to hang the lathe from one end? Will I warp anything?

I also have another concern about this lathe.

It is missing the holes on the spindle to lock it in place for removal of the chuck.
There should be holes here, but their aint.

I might be able to get a strap wrench on it.

Has anybody encountered this before? What did you do?

Kel

 

[b.lindsey]

Nice looking lathe Kel. I am almost thinking I would attach some 2"x6" rails to the stairway and carefully slide it down with a good rope on the top end, and maybe a helper too. Of course once you get it down, there is still the matter of lifting up to its new home, but less treacherous than navigating the stairs while carrying it at least.

Can't comment on the spindle...the specs show it is a threaded spindle and I am assuming the v-groove and clamp in the last pic are to keep the chuck from backing itself off the spindle nose.

Bill

 

[rcfreak177]

Ha Ha Ha!

I love the fact the lathe is new and you pulled it apart already, I did the same thing while my missus was yelling at me, I didn't have the courage to take mine inside the house but, Thats funny (in a good way).

:big:

 

[hopeless]

I have the Aussie version of that lathe and yep has 2 holes in the spindle . If you are game drill 2 1/4" holes and go for it only need to be 1/4" deep then put the 4 jaw tommybar end in the hole and use your 3 jaw key in the 3 jaw chuck and all is good
Pete

 

[Lakc]

Welcome to home shop machining, where the first skill you need to learn is rigging. ;D
Eyebolt, through a suitable reinforcement in the attic, is how its generally raised and lowered. A little bit of lumber making a slide across the steps helps the lowering part.

 

[Blogwitch]

I have noticed a few posts recently where people are recommending to put the lathe into back gear for chuck removal.

That is an absolutely great idea, if you want to make just plain blanks. That is the easiest way of removing teeth off gears that I have ever come across.

Back gear IS NOT for removing stuck chucks, it is for making the spindle revolve more slowly, if you didn't already know.

A few people may have got away with it, many thousands more haven't.

Bogs

 

[mklotz]

What Bogs said...in spades.

Heat the chuck with a hot air gun and, while warm, apply some Kroil to the joint. Let this marinate for a day or so and then use a combination of a spindle crank and my banjo wrench to apply torque to the chuck without involving the expensive gears.

 

[mu38&Bg#]

I don't know. The manual for my lathe recommends the back gear. I jumped on the end of a 3 foot breaker bar to get the chuck off when I bought the lathe. Of course there is a difference between a 1960's machine made for a machine shop and some of the import product being made today.

 

[Blogwitch]

Greg,

They would say that, more sales of gears.

But really, I have forgotten the number of gear teeth I have had to repair for people that have gone the backgear route. It is an easy repair to bridge gear teeth with a couple of pegs, but if you can get away without the need to do it in the first place, all the better.

I am no angel, many years ago, I used to tempt fate by doing it that way, until one day I felt a rather hard slap against the side of my head, and the punishment of a weeks' swarf clean up stopped my bad habits.

A spotlessly clean, very lightly oiled nose thread usually prevents it from happening, and don't forget to check the chuck threads as well, as that is where most contamination comes from. It is just like washing your hands with clean soapy water and then drying them with an oily rag.

Bogs

 

[mklotz]

Beating on the chuck wrench while it's in the chuck!!

I wouldn't do that even on my (pun alert) beater chucks.

Good engineering practice suggests that one decide on a methodology by considering how difficult/expensive it will be to recover if things go pear-shaped.

Give a thought to what's required to remove the spindle, remove the bull gear, buy/make and fit a new one, realign spindle and you may convince yourself that Bogs and my advice to err on the side of caution has some value.

Kroil is cheap. A spindle crank is easy to make and useful for more than chuck removal. A banjo wrench is a simple afternoon woodworking project.

It's your tool, your choice, of course. All Bogs and I are doing is offering some experience and a plea to think about it before applying brute force mechanic's techniques to a precision tool.

 

[b.lindsey]

Bogs, you are right of course and I have modified my post accordingly. On those occasions where I have done it, it was with a circa 1970 Atlas with good strong gears and very moderate pressure on the teeth, not a shocking impact. Not that that makes it right, just explains why I have been fortunate perhaps. As has been pointed out, the best advice iiis to keep the spindle nose and chuck threads immaculately clean to avoid the issue to begin with.

Bill

 

[kcmillin]

Thanks everyone for youe suggestions.

Block and tackle will get it in the basement.

Marv, the spindle crank sounds like a real winner. However, can you clarify its construction and use? I need to lock the spindle somehow, and there does not seem to be any place, other than the gears and pulley, to grab on to.

Pete, I have thought about drilling the 1/4" holes required but Ime not sure if the spindle will get ruined, and there is verry little space to drill it. I think it might be hardened as well, Not sure though.

How good, or bad of an Idea is it to drill the required holes?

Kel

 

[mklotz]

Marv, the spindle crank sounds like a real winner. However, can you clarify its construction and use? I need to lock the spindle somehow, and there does not seem to be any place, other than the gears and pulley, to grab on to.

See your post on chuck removal. The references are there.

 

[Jasonb]

You may also want to think about removing the motor which I assume you have not as I can't see it on your kitchen floor, I did that on my 11x28 and it saves quite a bit of weight. You could also take the gear gaurd off and remove the change gears as well.

While the cover is off you may find that there is something on the other end of the spindle you can use to hold it while removing the chuck.

Jason

 

[Blogwitch]

To get back to Kel's problem.

I personally would be tempted to fix the lathe onto a sheet of plywood or a couple of skids, and slide it down the stairs. Less damage would be caused if it got away from you.

Lower away with the heavy end towards you, so as the light end hits the floor at the bottom, it will be less stress on the lathe as the sheet levels itself out at the bottom. When down to the last steps, as the sheet reaches the bottom, just gently lower the heavy end down onto the next step until it sits on the floor.

It really would be a two man job to make it a safe exercise. Two ropes are always better than one.


Bogs

 

[kcmillin]

Thanks Marv, Jason, and Bogs (John) Not sure which you prefer.

Marv, thanks for the links to your thread on the spindle wrench. This will be more than just useful, but a necessity.

Jason, I have thought about taking more off. I want to keep the taring apart to a minimum, so well see how the pulley system goes.

John, I am going to go with a combination of what you suggested with the skid, and a block and tackle to guarantee it doesn't get away from me. I may also construct a dolly of sorts to keep it off the ground and closer to the final height of the bench. I think this will minimize the amount of ibeuprofen I will be taking for my back.

I do have one concern about letting the lathe down light end first. I see what you are saying about stresses on the bed, but I am worried about the balance. I am just a little anxious about it at the moment, and want to take my time and do things as safely as possible.

Thanks again for all your help.

Kel

 

[Blogwitch]

Kel,

John or Bogs, it doesn't matter, I have been called a lot worse. Normally, if I reply to someone personally or I know the person, it is John, but if someone I don't really know or a collective audience, Bogs.

In my younger days, I carried a stripped down mill/drill to an upstairs bedroom by myself. Definitely not recommended, in fact it was downright stupid on my part, but it had to be done, there was no other way open to me. I slung the parts by a webbing strap around the back of my neck to take the weight, and carried them up the stairs. When it was all over, I wondered why I had worried so much about it. I did it the same way when I moved it into my new outside shop.

You will find the same thing with your lathe, if you are not silly, like I was (but very lucky), it will go smooth as silk and you will end up kicking yourself for worrying so much. The castings are stronger than you think, and I have little doubt you will do it without any damage at all.

Just do it slowly and safely.

John

 

[Dan Rowe]

Kel,
I like Bogs sugestion. Make sure that what you secure the end of the block and tackle or chain fall is up to the task.

I had a full knee mill on a dolly pull out the D-rings of a moving van when it was going down the ramp. Lucky for me it jamed on the ramp and did not tip over. A third guy saw it happen and with the 3 of us we managed to recover with no injurys but it was a close call.

Dan

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Get some help.
Last December I moved my horizontal band saw down to the basement.
Less than 200 pounds.
One step at a time.
It seemed do-able.

In January I had arthroscopic surgery on my knee for a torn meniscus.
I don't know if it was due to that...but I'm sure it didn't help any.

 

[kcmillin]

Zee, I do plan on having 1 or 2 extra hands to help me. I would not try it alone (not again) I too brought my horizontal band saw down these same stairs by myself. Ouch, that one still hurts.

I got my 600 lb mill drill down in three sections, with two other people helping. We also just did it one stair at a time. But this lathe poses some extra challenges.

I just pourchased a 1 ton chain hoist and am getting the anchor ready in the ceiling. It only has 10 feet of travel, and I think I need 11 or more to get it level. I may have to build a temporary landing about two steps from the bottom. This will be ok though. 2 feett from the basement floor will be a big relief from where it is right now.

Kel