Turning Retaining Ring Grooves

[ShopShoe]

I have made shafts that need a retaining ring to secure them. To turn the groove for the ring I have ground HSS toolbits for the purpose using a Dremel tool. These work OK, but I started wondering if there's a better way. BTW, this is only an occasional thing, so a rare and expensive special bit is probably out of the question. I considered using a 60-degree threading tool, but chose the above approach.

Thank you,

--ShopShoe

 

[rake60]

We recently bought an indexable insert grooving tool from Enco at work that
wasn't terribly expensive and it works very well.

It is at the bottom of THIS PAGE.
You can get it in 3/8" or 1/2" shank for $55.06.

The inserts can be found on THIS PAGE.
.019" to .073" widths are available. $16.28 each for a good TiN coated insert.

That may be a bit pricey for a hobby shop, but I'm getting lazy in my old age.
I hate grinding HSS tooling so I ordered one of them for my hobby shop.

Rick

 

[Tin Falcon]

I generaly use my 6" grinder for most grinding jobs on HSS bits.
1) grind a square blank for the purpose.
2) grind a parting tool for the purpose
3buy an insert grooving tool
. In addition to the above one mentioned I would mention this one
http://www.arwarnerco.com/warner_products_kits_cutoff-groover_k21.html

Tin

 

[ShopShoe]

Thanks Rick and Tin. One of those parting tools goes on the future purchase list. I've wanted a better parting tool anyway.

Thanks Again,

--ShopShoe

 

[Tin Falcon]

SS I will add that with Warner you are buying top quality American made product direct from the manufacture or (you can get Warner products from Littlemachine shop.com as well) Mike Warner is a top notch guy . It is a well established family business. In Latrobe PA.
A few years ago Warner introduced a new product at cabin fever, only to find out there was a design flaw in the new boring bar(improper clearance) Mike tracked down the purchasasers via forums like this got addresses and sent replacements. If there is a problem with one of his products that is his fault he will do his bet to correct it immediately. He stands behind what he makes. And delivers the best.
Also many of his products he offers carbide inserts as well as HSS.
No affiliation just a satisfied customer.
tin

 

[cheepo45]

A nice tool for cutting narrow grooves can be made from a utility knife blade. You will have to make some sort of holder and grind the end of the blade to suit. The blades are good steel and stay sharp for quite a while. You can step the blade over for multiple widths.
Cheepo45

 

[Swede]

Tin - that Warner tool looks like a clone of the Nikole "mini-thin" system. With the Nikole at least, the shank price isn't too bad, but the inserts are pricey at maybe $15 each. That said, it is one of my favorite lathe tools. An awesomely useful tool for precision slotting, profiling, and external threading. The inserts start at 0.015" wide, and step up in width. Great for cylinder fins, and they can be resharpened with relative ease. Also perfect for light or small part-off duties, like tubing. I've always hated using a 0.086" parting tool when I can use one that is 0.032" or smaller... less waste, easier cutting.

90 bucks for the tool and 5 inserts ain't bad at all, and if the Nikole inserts fit, the best ones are the external V thread tip, and the 0.125" hemispherical profiler. The latter is perfect for small camshafts and the like.

 

[kuhncw]

The Warner inserts fit the Nikcole bar, and I suppose the reverse is true. I have inserts from both companies and the Nikcole bar.

I agree. This is a very handy tool.

Regards,

Chuck

 

[deverett]

For thin grooving, I use bits of old hard hacksaw blades in a home made holder. Use a Dremel to give a bit of relief to the side of the blade. I now have one blade with a square cutting face and the other end with a rounded face.




The bottom of the blade holder has a groove to retain the blade and hold it against the side, but this doesn't show up in the picture. Done with a dovetail cutter. The top part has a slight taper filed across the edge to add further security to the blade.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

 

[smfr]

Tin - that Warner tool looks like a clone of the Nikole "mini-thin" system. With the Nikole at least, the shank price isn't too bad, but the inserts are pricey at maybe $15 each. That said, it is one of my favorite lathe tools. An awesomely useful tool for precision slotting, profiling, and external threading. The inserts start at 0.015" wide, and step up in width. Great for cylinder fins, and they can be resharpened with relative ease.

Hi Swede

I have the Nikcole set and love it. I recently got some radius inserts, which are handy for corners, and also are great for finish passes.

I'm curious about how you resharpen the Nikcole inserts. With a green wheel on the grinder?

Simon

 

[Tin Falcon]

simon: i would think a quick touch up/hone job with a diamond hone would do the trick .Tin

 

[ShopShoe]

Thanks to all for the additional input.

steamdave,

Kudos on your homemade holder. That is also a really a good idea and that's a well-designed and well-made piece. What material did you use to make your holder? How did you determine the height for the cutting edge?

--ShopShoe

 

[Mosey]

Nikcole me too very much like!!!
Cuts like the proverbial hot knife in butter.

 

[deverett]

SS

The tool is designed to fit my Myford lathe. Body is about 2-3/4" long. The tongue is 3/8" square to fit the toolholder and the whole lot came out of a piece of unknown steel. The cap is also steel of unknown parentage. The teeth are ground off the blade as far as possible so that it is held truly vertical in the groove of the body.

I measured the height of the tool tip location from the topslide. With the blade upside down so that the good edge fitted the bottom groove, it was easy to work out the height of the bottom blade carrier. If making one, make sure that the blade groove is high rather than low, because there will be differences in the amount ground off the teeth of different blades. If the tool tip ends up too high, it is easy to grind a bit off the top to get the right height.

The cap is made so that it does not rest on the top of the body when clamping the blade. This always ensures the blade is held securely.

The blacking is just standard oil blacking. Heat to almost red and dunk it in old engine oil.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

 

[ShopShoe]

Thank you steamdave

--ShopShoe