The Comprehensive Guide to Silver Soldering

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Rustkolector

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There is a multi-part article in the Model Engineer's Workshop magazine with the above title. The first part is in the current May 2017 issue #254 and covers fuels, torches, harths, etc. MEW is available in most Barnes & Noble bookstores.

Jeff
 
Just logging in from my Bulgarian hotel.

Having read this article, it is like most others that cover such subjects, there is so much information given that it very easily confuses the reader to such a state that he/she is more confused than before reading.

Every person has their own method and needs, and that is usually found by trial and error.

I have been silver soldering for more years than I can remember, and for about the last 15 to 20 years, nothing has changed in my setup other than the release of a newer flux and cadmium free solder.

Mine isn't like the very expensive types that always seem to be thrown into the mix, just a straight plumbers blowtorch running off disposable cartridges or a cheaper setup for running off a replaceable cylinder, both included would cost less than one of the more expensive units with just one burner.

The main thing for good soldering is the flux, even with the cadmium free silver solders. I have used over the years Tenacity #5 and all of it's predecessors, and this really does make very good joints on all solderable materials from copper to stainless steel even when not cleaned too well.

Another major point is that beginners tend to feed the rod in. This almost guarantees that too much solder will be used.

I use two types, sheet or rod. The very thin sheet is placed under where the joint should be and the rod along the joint on the outside or inside. If the correct amount is used, there will be just a very thin joint line produced with no spare solder running over the job.

Once you get the nice results you require, with both large and small components, stick with that method. Why change something that is already right.

John
 
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