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I just realized there is a mistake on the bases! I counter bored the wrong side... so the base is kind of transposed.

Doh! Sorry... I think it will still work. If not, I can redo them...

Eric
 
Brass_Machine said:
I just realized there is a mistake on the bases! I counter bored the wrong side... so the base is kind of transposed.

Doh! Sorry... I think it will still work. If not, I can redo them...

Eric

Cant we just flip the little triangle cam thingy upside down and have a "left handed" engine?
 
stevehuckss396 said:
Cant we just flip the little triangle cam thingy upside down and have a "left handed" engine?

I think we can. I don't see why not :big:

 
my original runner is left handed. No problem Eric. No mistakes just design changes . we will just have to tap the opposite side for the air fitting.
Tin
 
Well it's done :big: :big: ... if I hadn't come down with some kind of virus it would have been finished a week ago. :(

The photo below shows what parts I made ...notice that there are a few new ones. :)

A few notes on the parts:
I have attached an e-clip to keep the Rocker Arm on the Rocker Arm Shaft.
I used .081" Brass Rod for the Valve Assembly and Valve Push Rod. The Push Rod has 2-56 threads to provide a means to adjust the valve location. Also a 2-56 nut to lock down the adjustment.
The Valve itself is Bronze that was soft soldered to the Brass Rod.

The small tab that connects the Valve Assembly to the Rocker Arm serves two purposes. Keeps the assembly parallel to the base which prevents the valve from jamming inside the Block plus it reduces the slop so it runs smoother. During running it never came apart so I didn't provide any means to keep it in place.

During my testing and adjustments the Flywheels kept moving out of position so I made some Bronze Bushings to keep them in place. Really makes a big difference. They are about .1 thick.

Runner Steam Engine TB4 2978.jpg



Finally assembly notes:
Notice the Rocker Arm position ... the longer side (.912" hole distance) is perpendicular to the Block.

The Valve Assembly and the Valve Push Rod were tested on my unit so that only minor adjustments would be required.

The Valve Push Rod will come out of the Rocker Arm at High RPM (say above 15 psi) with a sudden air removal. If done slowly it stays in place. You may want to provide a means to prevent that (bending or something like that). I will probably drill a small hole in the rod and put a small pin in it.

One more thing ... when I first tried to run ... ran terrible until I oiled it with 30 weight oil. Now so nice! ;) ;)
Also I usually have to give a little push to start ... depends on the position of the Flywheels.

Runner Steam Engine TB4 2973.jpg




All that is left ... mail the parts. I need to find a way to package the parts so that they don't get bent. Maybe a small box will do.
Hope to do this Monday.


If you have any question let me know! Have fun! :) :)


Pat H.
 
Nice looking bits Pat! Thm:

I was worried about the side to side movement of the crank also. In a moment of reckless modification the other night I cut down a piece of 3/16" ID thinwall brass tubing to just fit between the flywheels. I bored out the hole in the upright to take the tubing, and I'll locktite it in place when everything is aligned. Funny, I didn't even think about spacer bushings. :Doh:

As to the valve push rod, what about a Z bend on the end? Might be easier than drilling for a pin.

Fine tuning is half the fun (and usually most of the work... :big: )

Cheers

Jeff
 
Parts are on their way ... :big: :big:

All 5 boxes!

Thanks for the compliments.

Jeff .. yes a Z bend would work just fine :)

Have fun guys ... and let us know how things work out. :D


Pat H.
 
Got a box of parts today! Will do some assembly tomorrow.

Many thanks to all!

Eric
 
Heya Steve, I hope that you aren't down with anything real serious and begin feeling better in the next 12 hours.

BC1
Jim
 

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