Swifty's build of Howell V4

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ozzie46

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I started the V4 about 4 years ago but lost 2 years because of some life changes. I am down to just the distributor left and plan on putting the whole thing together this summer. I own the gear cutters DP48 # 2,3,and4 and will lend them to anyone who needs them. I also have extra babbitt for the Shaft Oil Bushing (sheet #45)

That's extremely generous of you. I may take you up on your offer as I have a few 48DP gears to make for the V4 and a couple other engines want to make.
 

Swifty

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I noticed the Babbitt material being called for, not something that I have used in the past. I will have to study the application a bit more.

Paul.
 

lvn71

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I'm new to using this website and will post some pictures as soon as I get that process figured out. As you can see from my avatar the first IC engine I built was Jerry's Plunket Jr. He gives a lot of information with his design and I found the drawings easy to follow. Lee
 

gus

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I noticed the Babbitt material being called for, not something that I have used in the past. I will have to study the application a bit more.

Paul.
Hi Paul,

Have seen the uncles next door casting and machining Babbit Metal Bearings and they seemed to make it look so easy. Another learning curve. Getting the metal to stick on to the bearing shell is an art. Turning the bearing another.
I guess we can surf YouTube for info.

Same with another neighbour casting aluminium but but when I had to cast a hundred Auto-Condensate Traps for a Thailand Oil Company Order,it was a very steep learning curve. After a month of trial and error and research, I eventually arrived at the pour temperature and C.I.Mould Temperature and the pouring speed. All these uncle tradesmen are dead and gone.

DP 48 Gear Cutters.
Have decided to buy Imperial Involute Gear Cutters to timing gears as per Jerry Howell Drawings. Substituting with metric gears will be tough.Too much to re-invent. Found vendor------GlobalIndustrial.com.
 
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Swifty

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Hi Gus, I will buy my own gear cutters as well, not much progress lately as we had our grandson staying for the last 2 days. I will be able to finish maching the second side of the block today, then I have to sort out a way of machining the grooves in the bores where the liners fit. I find it's always best to think about problems for a while, that way hopefully I come up with the best solution.

Paul.
 

digiex-chris

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I agree. I come up with my best ideas just as I'm falling asleep 3 days after I first start thinking about something.
 

Swifty

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Here's the other 2 bores done, starting to look like an engine block.



I had a play around with various ideas about holding the block on the faceplate for doing the water bores and O ring groove. Thanks to Ruzzie for his picture, I did something very similar. I have a small cast iron angle plate that I never use, so I drilled and tapped an M12 hole in one side and then clamped it on the faceplate. To get an approximate alignment I used a piece of 1"brass bar with the end turned down to 13mm to suit my drill chuck in the tailstock. I used the brass bar to support the angle plate and engine block whilst I clamped the whole lot up, I then used an indicator to do the final centering. there was a bit of difference front to back, so I made sure where the O ring was going to go was running true, the cooling relief isn't important.



I turned the water relief first, then the groove for the O ring. I never like machining things in this type of set up, I'm always waiting for a big crash, but 1 down and 3 to go. Here's a picture of the tool I used for the O ring, the tool for the relief was more solid than this one.



Paul.
 

Lesgsy

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Hi Paul
I made dummy head a bit longer than the one on sheet 19 of Jerry's plans,
With some fixing holes in each end I bolted it to an angle plate which holds it good for bouring the opposite boars.
As for the babit I machined mine from phos bronze and after 1 hour + of running I've still got good oil presure
Les.
 

Swifty

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Hi Les, I was thinking about using phospher bronze as well. I have a bit of chatter in the water relief holes, but it's of no consequence.

Paul.
 

Swifty

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I've finished the first stages of the engine block, a lot more material comes off later after more holes are drilled.





Paul.
 

Swifty

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No work yesterday, and just a bit today. These parts are bearing holders that fit either end of the engine block. I tried machining some aluminium pieces that I could attach to the hard jaws on my 3 jaw chuck, to enable me to use it as a soft jaw chuck, but I wasn't happy with how they were holding, so gave up on it after a couple of hours and reverted to the 4 jaw chuck. I had to machine bores on the opposite sides of the parts in the pictures, was easy to get them running true in the 4 jaw with gentle pressure to avoid squashing them.



Now that I'm back working on an engine, those mysterious gremlins that creep into the workshop and pick up the aluminium swarf are at it again, they come into the house and spread it around. I spot various small bits as I walk around the house.

Paul.
 

Swifty

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The bearings, screws and O rings arrived this morning. I was initially surprised at how small the package was, but then again, most of the parts are tiny.



I'm just waiting for another parcel to arrive today, this time for my son, I have to sign for it. Then I'm off to the Hare & Forbes 3 day sale to get a 6 x 4 bandsaw, it's too much hard work using a hand hacksaw all the time.

Paul.
 

gus

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Welcome to the BandSaw Club. Three years ago I gave up manual hacksaw. Good reason why Gus became very pro-active with so many projects.

Bimetal Saw is best for our type of jobs. The normal cheapy blades will lose the sharpness after a few jobs.Sawing straight manually is nearly impossible when the blade lose its initial sharpness.

The Makita Portable Bandsaw became an asset on day one.
 

Swifty

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Hi Gus, we used Bimetal blades on the band saw at work, they were great. The suppliers that I bought the saw from don't stock Bimetal blades for that model, so I will have to go to a different suppliers for the blades.

Paul.
 
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gus

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Bimetal Saw costly but money worth and same holds good track on scribed line for quite a while more than normal cheapy saw. The Taiwanese BandSaw I bought for the plant ,had Bimetal Blade. For the very rough
punching/stamp tools I made,same saw was very handy to have.

Majority of HMEM Forum Members are no longer young men with strong arms. Manual Hack Sawing sapped out precious energy. Power Bandsawing leaves us with ample energy to work on engine projects. Pre-BandSaw days would have Gus procrastinating manual sawing a bar stock.
 

gus

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I am following this thread studiously.
( Hooked up a 200 kg Hammer Shark and required by Burmese Law to release. It was painful to so see so many metres or precious 80lb Braided Line gone with the fish.We did have a a good look before H/Head took off.) Also landed a 10 kg Dog Tooth Tuna. Fishy mate happily holding fish up for me. Slimy Doggie not my liking to hold.)

IMG_3162.jpg
 
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Swifty

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I made a start on the cylinder heads today, all fairly straight forward.



I'm leaving on Sunday for a week long break, so no more machining till I get back.

Paul.
 

gus

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Have a good time.
Was a good fishing trip though boat not as spacious.Sleeping space bit cramped.Now on shore in the south enjoying South Thailand Food.
 

gus

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Just wondering if my mini mill can handle these O/Heads???
Just learnt how to drill/tap perfect holes for the spark plug. With a small 13mm Bench Drill Press is tough.

The Outerheads looks good. Meanwhile the RockerArms are not happy with Gus. Messed 4 pcs. Scrap value is nearly zero but too much time and labour lost. Two more arms to make tomorrow. Flu gone. Work comes.
 
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