Swager design

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kd0afk

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I need to attach terminators to the ends of a 1/16" steel cable. None of the four hardware stores in town sell any kind of swager and I only need to do 6 so I can't see spending $30-50 on a swager. I have a lathe and a bench vise, I think I can make something that will work.
The cables are for flexible dial indicator bases and I want to use steel for the swages unless aluminum would hold just as well in this situation.
My question is; how should I make the swage or more specific, what should the profile of the hole look like? I'm thinking an hourglass shape, necked in in the middle.
 
Real cable crimpers used for aircraft work look look this.

31Mrc5WBvIL.jpg


For not critical non lfting no life on line aplicaion and small cable these would probablt work. handy to have in the shop for other uses like wire stripping conector crimping and small bolt cutting.
820909530374.jpg


tin
 
I don't even think I saw one of those electrical tools when I was looking. This is a town of less than 7000 with 5 pharmacies two of those are Rite Aid stores and4 hardware stores but if a housewife doesn't need it you can't find it anywhere. I have to buy 99% of my metal and materials online. If I can get a ride into Ukiah or Willits they have metal yards but it's still more expensive to buy from them than from eBay with shipping.
 
you could cobble one up from a pair of dollar store pliers
Tin
 
I have some square bar stock, I'll make em. I'll probably bore the end of it and then counterbore it to the diameter of the swage. The cable is only 1/16" so I'm thinking 1/32" of crimp might do it. I'll split the piece with a Dremmel cutoff wheel so the kerf will be minimal.
Is this a good approach?
 
radius and smooth edges you are swaging metal not cutting it.
Tin
 
I need to attach terminators to the ends of a 1/16" steel cable. None of the four hardware stores in town sell any kind of swager and I only need to do 6 so I can't see spending $30-50 on a swager.
You will likely go into price shock if you find a listing for a proper cable fitting crimper. Funny you should mention that size cable as we use that (I believe) that size cable at work. There we use a small NicoPress crimper: http://www.nicopress.com

In any event we crimp aluminum pieces on the cables to prevent pull through. Properly crimped you won't have any trouble with aluminum holding on the steel cable.
I have a lathe and a bench vise, I think I can make something that will work. The cables are for flexible dial indicator bases and I want to use steel for the swages unless aluminum would hold just as well in this situation.
Aluminum will be find if you get a good crimp. Depending upon exactly what you are trying to achieve you could use some electrical ring terminals and crimp them on with a suitable crimper. A pair of crimpers designed for electrical work won't cost a huge amount and like all good tools they will be there when you need them. Ring terminals are of course copper but they will hold on steel wire.
My question is; how should I make the swage or more specific, what should the profile of the hole look like? I'm thinking an hourglass shape, necked in in the middle.
No need for an hour glass figure. Depending upon who made the crimper the die can be round, hex, square or some other combo. Some drivers make use of four pins to indent the sleeve every 90°.

If you make a die for your vise you will need provisions to keep the two halfs aligned. The sleeve you put on the wires should be a bit longer that the width of your die.
 
It will be difficult to get the force needed using a hand tool on steel , even copper takes a lot.
You will find that soft soldered nipples will do the job , bell-mouth the nipple so that the cable strands can be spread. I have used this method for brake and clutch cables for many years. It was also used along with clamps to secure colliery winding gear cable.
 
I didn't even think to stop by the local bike shop and ask them they can probably make cables from scratch
 
I'm not going to spend $50 on a tool that I can make in the shop. All I need to know is the final diameter of a 1/16" aluminum stop sleeves.
Does anyone know what that diameter is?
 
Can't find anyone in town to swage my cable ends. I failed when I tried it so is there a company who won't charge me a $1000 to make one cable?
 
Here's a question can I mig weld the ball end on the cable? I'm getting a welder.
 
can it be done ? yes !
can you do it ? likely !
the question is how many balls will you melt to learn how.

seriously how big are the balls IIRC the cable is 1/16
you should be able to drill and countersink the ball have the cable sticking up just a little and zap some weld in. but it may take some practice especially if you have never welded.
Tin
 
The ends will be cylindrical rather than ball shaped.
I can't believe it's this hard to get a stupid piece of metal crimped on to the end of a stupid piece of stupid wire.
Sorry for the attitude but I just spent the greater half of today walking to Tommy's Marine all the way across town and back after calling them and explaining what I needed, them telling me on the phone that they can do the job and then telling me they can't when I got there.
 
What about a spelter socket and brazing the wire on? I already tried it using solder and it didn't hold. And one of the newest things is using a resin in the socket.
I'm trying to pin down my best option.
And the wire size has changed to 1/8" .
 
Could You try to center punch the ferrule with a blunt center punch? Support the ferrule on top of bench vice jaws that are open about 2/3's the diameter of the ferrule.
 
We needed a small ball on the throttle cables on my go-kart we would silver solder it on or you can braze it. The only bad part is the heat you need to be careful not to the cable to hot. It works best if the first say 1/2" of the cable doesn't flex it tends the fray then break do to the heat.

Todd
 
We needed a small ball on the throttle cables on my go-kart we would silver solder it on or you can braze it. The only bad part is the heat you need to be careful not to the cable to hot. It works best if the first say 1/2" of the cable doesn't flex it tends the fray then break do to the heat.

Todd

The cable won't flex for at least an inch. I'll probably make the button with a shank and peen the shank before I braze it. I think this sounds like a winning solution.
 
How about just using epoxy for what you are doing ?
Tin
 
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