Stuart progress in the making

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Lucas1997

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Hi all. Been a while since i was on here. Anyway i just started on my new Stuart progress today. I don't own a mill so this will be a challenge, although the Stuart website says it can be done with just a lathe. This will be my first engine made from castings. Any advice is great. Thanks
 
No mill? Face plate and 4 jaw! One can be very creative when one needs
to. Looking forward to further posts on your progress! Have you checked
the Stuart web site to see if you can get just the drawings?

Pete
 
Now badly addicted to Petrol Engines. Planned to DIY Stuart Steam Engines as they remind me of the steam engines running a nearby sawmill. Will be following your post.
 
Well I finished the cylinder today. Didn't turn out quite as good as I hoped, as one of the steam vents when all the way through. I think I should work though, if not I will fill the bad part with jb weld. Also worked on the frame a bit

JB weld not good idea...

Use Degussa Brazetec 4003 to fill up all hole who is fault located and drilled.
 
Brazetec 4003 has a large cadmium content and I would never recommend it for any home use , It may even be banned in Europe although I can't be sure without checking.
If you need to fill a mis drilled hole in a copper alloy casting use a scrap of brass rod that is a sliding fit in the hole and silver braze (hard solder) with a non cadmium silver solder.
note; some solders may be advertised as "silver solder" but contain only a very small amount of silver and are really soft solder , do not confuse these with hard solder.
They may be great for soldering your speaker connections but not for this repair.
 
Lucas, I hope you get around to completing this engine. I for one am looking forward to it.
 
Hi Lucas; have just completed this model myself last month, interesting model to build. I found that there was a few chilled spots on the base & the drawing/booklet is confusing as it includes other versions too. A little tip ... save your iron filings, & brass filings into little tins then your can use JB weld / metal epoxy resin bonded with parent material for extra strength, & ends up the same colour.

A few pics of mine..

S10 OH basic parts.jpg


S10 OH Flywheel machining..jpg


S10 OH partial assembly (1).jpg


S10H Cyl.port recess machining (2).jpg


S10H drill & tap (1).jpg


S10H trial assembly (1).jpg


Stuart S10 Assembly on base (1).jpg


20170123_170025.jpg
 
Hi all. Been a while since i was on here. Anyway i just started on my new Stuart progress today. I don't own a mill so this will be a challenge, although the Stuart website says it can be done with just a lathe. This will be my first engine made from castings. Any advice is great. Thanks

You can do light milling in the lathe with a milling attachment. What size lathe are you using.?
 
Back for another update. It is finished! \o/ I was trying to decide whether to install the flashing on the outside of the cylinder, then I realized previous me did not stick to dimensions, flashing is not wide enough to cover, so no flashing for now anyway. I ended up making the spring myself, one of the skills I've learned in the few days since the last update.😬 Anyway, seems to run pretty good (compressed air for now), at least fairly low rpm, but sounds like quite a bit of air leakage right now. Is that just kind of expected with wobblers?
 

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The video didn't play for me. Anyhow, I guess that you comment about air leaks may be the exhaust ?.. or maybe it is actually leaking at the sliding face between cylinder and valve block? - very likely if the machined finish is not perfectly flat or linished smooth? oil liberally to see if that helps? Check with just a little air and soapy water, while turning over slowly by hand. Bubbles will show leaks. Not all passages are primed with air all the time so hand turning the engine can help show what is good and what is leaking.
In the UK we call these "oscilators", as "wobblers" to us implies a sense of imperfect control. Like after a lot of beer, or a child learning to walk. But the oscillating motion is actually well controlled, hence the name.
A very nice looking engine. Hope you figure out the leaks or noises?
K2
 
Thanks all for the comments. And K2, I am not sure why the video doesn't work, it still works for me. I do like the soapy water idea, I will try that. I assumed it was mainly leaking from the frame\cylinder mating surface due to poor precision, but could be wrong.
 
Feels a little late to reply, but your engine turned out great Mechman, I really like the red flywheel. And Packrat, my lathe is a 9x19, but I have since got a X2D mini mill as well.
 
Aha! Video worked first click. -which it didn't the other day.
Picked-up a non-working oscillator once, to fix. It wasn't true to the cylinder-spindle, which was in a close fitting pivot hole. It simply didn't leak when the cylinder without spindle was held a against the valve block, but leaked from one side as soon as the spindle was fitted and it was completely assembled. I made the spindle hole a bit larger so the skew spindle didn't hold the block face off the valve face, an it worked well enough. the spring could then hold the block against the valve.
Hope yours is OK? Looks good in the video, but maybe I can hear some hissing? Not just the exhaust chuffing? - How about the connection to the valve block - is that temporary? - leaking?
K2
 

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