Stuart H10

[Rheanr4]

I bit the bullet. After much fussing I ordered a Stuart 10V castings kit.

This is billed as a good "first time" project. I guess we will see.

I will be posting progress here, and looking for advice, I am sure.

In fact, I already have a question. The kit comes with BA hardware. This is a bit of a pain for us here on this (US) side of the pond.

What is the difficulty/advisability of using Imperial hardware?

Reg

 

[Mechanicboy]

You can buy the 0-10 BA tap and die set in the woodcase from RDG tools.
i has same set as this in the link. Never had problem with tap. The fine with the split die--> you can adjust the correct fit where the treads in parts must fit without clearance. Use turpentine as lubricant when you are treading in cast iron. https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/BA-TAP---DIE-SET-0-10-ba-65545.html

Before you are machining the cast parts, be sure the overall dimension is in about right oversized and without defects before you are turning/milling to right size.

Use tools with Tungsten-carbide inserts to work in cast iron. The high speed tool is unuseful on unworked cast iron.

 

[Rheanr4]

I bought a tap and die set. I need to figure out the tap and clearance bits. I have a list, but I haven't found a source for the drill bits listed. The bits on the list seem like odd sizes, .201mm for instance.

Stuart sells the bits in sets for each BA size, but they don't list the sizes and they are mighty proud of those bits. About $5.00 for a single drill bit seems just a bit steep for me.

Reg

 

[bazmak]

I used to remember them by heart.Mostly/all no drills.Look for a drill
and tapping chart and difficult ones can be converted to metric and round
up or down to the nearest metric. A metric set of 1 to 6mm in 0.1mm will
get you to 2 thou. This may only become a problem on the small sizes
I only ever went down to 12BA.But it is workable

 

[RonGinger]

The BA hardware is much better looking as to scale hardware. The thickness of the nuts and bolt heads is greater than the equivalent imperial hardware. The model will look much more 'classy' when finished in the BA. If you get a set of the taps and dies they will last for a lot of Stuart models.

 

[Rudy from Norway]

Just started on the same route. Newbie with new machines and a Stuart 10V kit. Found it chalenging to machine casted parts. No obvious place to start. And some of the parts was heavily chilled and i had to get new ones. Take your time is my advice..

 

[Charles Lamont]

I agree with Bazmak. A set of 0 to 6 mm in 0.1 mm steps will cover every imperial or metric size you need. That equates to 0.004" steps, accurate enough for almost any drilled or tapped hole.

 

[Charles Lamont]

I recommend getting a book. This:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00L5IEEFS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

or this:

http://www.teepublishing.co.uk/book...ilding-a-vertical-steam-engine-from-castings/

 

[deverett]

I used to remember them by heart.Mostly/all no drills.Look for a drill and tapping chart and difficult ones can be converted to metric and round up or down to the nearest metric. A metric set of 1 to 6mm in 0.1mm will get you to 2 thou. This may only become a problem on the small sizes I only ever went down to 12BA. But it is workable

If metric sized drills are difficult or expensive to get 'over there', just get a set of 1 - 60 number drills. Otherwise go the metric route as suggested by bazmak. The metric drills are regularly spaced, unlike the number drills.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

 

[bazmak]

I would just point out that metric are in increments of 0.1mm or 4 thou
Therefore any size can be got to within 2 thou.Depending on the application
and matl if you are unfortunate enough to get exactly in the middle go up or down.A drill bit rarely drills within 1 thou As i said i have never had problems
When i built Hielan Lassie i found most tapped holes were 5 or 7 BA and mainly
used M2.5/3 cap heads,csk,grub and button heads all looked good for different application.Where small head Hex were required i either bought them or made them. As an example there were 16 no 5BA csk hd screws holding down the valve covers x 3 = almost 50 screws.I dont like slotted csk screws on models
so used CSK hex socket.The large hd i skimmed down to a scale size and used a drill ground at 90o and the new size of the screws to drill/csk/cbore to give a neat
flush fitting head.Looked really well but a lot of work well worth it

 

[bwal74]

HI,

I bought these:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRITISH-...806114?hash=item2cbff10a62:g:BPsAAOSwtGlZKSpQ

they are from India and took a month to turn up but seem ok (I haven't used them yet though).

There is HSS sets out there but they are expensive.

Are you going to post your build on the site? I'm hoping to start my 10V some time this year.

Ben.

 

[Blogwitch]

Because small BA sizes are very thin and fragile, time spent making a good tapping stand will be worth it's weight in gold instead of trying to do it by hand, which will almost guarantee breakages down holes.

My taps always went blunt rather than breaking, and at the first sign of a squeak they were changed. Many hundreds of 1.6mm holes were tapped without a single break.

This is mine, made out of an old hollow underneath 12" surface plate. Notice the small knurled wheel under the main wheel, that is for fingertip use so you can 'feel' the cut.
Because of the slot along the back under the pillar and being able to move the overarm around the column, the chuck can be placed almost anywhere over the top surface of the table.

.

John

 

[goldstar31]

I have the Universal Pillar Tool which does more things like riveting and staking.

Of course my earlier one was crude and from welded bits but worked

Norm