Splicing linisher belts?

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MRA

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Hi folks
I was given some belts in various grit sizes which would be handy on my linisher - except they are about twice as long as I need. I wonder if anyone has found a way to join lengths into loops - some of those I have (in the correct lengths) appear to be joined with something like fibreglass tape, but I have no idea what kind of tape to experiment with. And glue - well, Gorilla Glue remains flexible when cured (really good for gluing soles back onto boots) so maybe that's worth a try. Any suggestions?
cheers
Mark
 
Hi Mark
I used the fibre enforced packing tape on my belt sander. It was one inch wide with some kind of thread running thru it. Maybe a dab of gorilla glue would help also. I had two bottles of that stuff set up on me in the bottle so I haven't bought any since.
Good Luck
 
Oddly I would go to a ship's chandler and ask them tp get you a bottle/tin of glue for repairing a rubber boat- not a PVC one.
In another World, I white water and sea canoed with the 1948 Olympic canoe coach on folding canoes/kayaks and then went onto to exporting an Avon Redshank dinghy for diving and family holidays.
Suffice to say that 'Avon' stuff was excellent. You want 'rubber ' stuff.

The local lads and I bought worn out canvas conveyer belting to skin Percy Blandford ones and Greenland kayaks. The glue almost invariably was messy black Bostik in screw tubes.
How time flies
 
Good ideas all - thanks very much. I'll come back and tell you when I've given it a go. Reinforced packing tape (sticky back) to start with.
 
I learned years ago, working at a fishing lure company to just use white wood glue and over lap about an inch using a vice at the time and stacking about 5 at a time with wood spacers in between each loop, then would make sure the splice would be running with the proud end going in the direction of the wheels. I recently made some for a hand held belt sander by cutting narrow strips to fit the width and used Titebond Ultimate wood glue that I had for making perfling strips that were soaked and heated for bending. When stacking like that you have to stagger them to work.
 
One of the videos I found (thanks to the recommendations on this thread to go and look!) on youtube had a guy using white PVA, a 45 degree splice, and putting a sheet of what looked like wet-and-dry paper grit-down across the joint. He'd previously scratched up the cloth back of the main belt to give it a bit of a key. OK, I'll try that while waiting for packing tape to arrive.
 
More than a yesr ago, I repaired burn holes in the sack of my Stihl shredder and leaf bower by sticking several patches with a hot glue gun. I intended to replace the bag but it is still OK.
Basically, it is flexible stuff and with care( backing) will not goo up the family electric iron.
Ironically( HuH!) it is possible to use this plastic clear round belting as a glue. When I skied on Cairngorm with all its surface granite on the runs, I repaired the gouges with a PVC 'candle'
There's plenty of alternatives to make joints. Both my kids were then on the French( yes) the French National computer for racing and I used my belt sander to service the the plastic/fabric based Kofix/PTex soles on their racing skis.
Thinking of plastic round belting, I have a Quorn tool and cutter grinder driven by perfectly normals pulleys and with a larger plywood one , I can take it up to 14,000 rpm without the slightlest bother. My fabricated Sten T&C runs with alloy pulleys up to 7,000 whilst my Chinese Deckel clone will happily run to 6400 rpm on its round belt.
Now I have a professional rev counter for all this from the days when I reworked tuned 12" to the foot Mini Cooper engines.
Today, I felt it time to buy myself a Christmas present and have arranged for a G.P. Potts style dividing head, cum vertical slide cum No2MT cum Myford Nose cum the ability to be graduated in N number of planes and capable of receiving a high speed spindle from one or other of my grinders using collets but retaining the ability to take Myford tooling.All driven my round belting
The price as the French would say tre( e acute)s interessant. or MYOB
Watch this space
Regard Norman
 

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