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Tin Falcon

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As many of you know from my windows shopping for a #D printer thread I took the plunge and purchased a used Soliddoodle 4 3-d printer.
the PS came in the mail today . and my dear wife and e-bay purchasing agent has been communicating with the seller about the fact the printer did not have a power supply . sound like he may make an adjustment in the form of a refund . we will see. the printer is running as I type.

Did have a glitch getting the printer driver set up and running. eh more or less normal. once the heater and bed were up to temp I was able to jog all axis and the extruder a good sign. Then had to remove a stuck piece of old filament to install the new.
A lot to learn I have but may actualy have something resembling a part on the first run.
we shall see.
Tin
 
Im running a print right now. I have gotten so used to one type of filament printing so well that when I switched to some cheap stuff...well lets just say Im looking for a hammer!!! GRRR
 
It was getting late I killed the print. neet to tweak things a bit.
Am learning the hardware and software still lots to learn

the pla stuck very well to the cheap windoe glass prepped with Auua net.
Tin
 
If you ever switch to ABS, run it in a well ventilated room, the fumes are nasty and we aren't talking "oh no you might get cancer from repeat exposure" (although there is supposedly that risk with ABS, PLA and nylon filaments too), we're talking I know a few guys that ever since being in the same room as an ABS printer without ventilation have actual breathing issues and also suffered headaches in the process. They seem to go back to normal after awhile but then another print reduces them straight back to painful coughing fits.
 
3 d printer $ 500 pla $ 40 kilo . printing a bunny while the 6 mo grandson watches priceless. need more hands.
tin

Bunny.jpg
 
6677 you got me thinking . came across this article.
May be a little idealistic but interesting read something to think about for 3-d printer owners.

http://leafygreenplanet.com/toxic-fumes-abs-pla-3d-printer/

My printer has a fume extraction filter but not a whole lot of good if a door is open . I guess the buzz is use good ventilation.
Tin
 
Well friends I have had the Soliddoodle4 for about a month now.
and solid doodle has just revamped the lineup.
The sd2 and SD 3 are discontinued and replaced with 3 new options.

http://www.solidoodle.com/
And the current retail on the SD 4 is now $599 .

Initial impressions the machine is fun to use.
as you can see successful prints after some learning.
The fact I have built a couple cnc machines and ran one for a year somewhat helpful the Idea of leveling the bed similar to tramming a mill but easier. and the z home swithch needs to be adjusted as this is critical to the first print layer.

The machine:
Appearance., the sd4 is a basic box style printer that gives a great first impression from its professional made looking case. most of the case is steel painted black and the door is injection molded plastic.
Mechanics. the basic setup of the SD4 is the same as the makerbot. But the materials are a little different. the SD4 bed plate holder is formed from sheet aluminum vs injection molded plastic on the MB. single motor screw actuated. z axis in the back of the machine. the scew is a 60 deg srew acme as found on the better machines would be an improvement. The Z stop adjuster is a good sized thumb wheel . The bed plate is a heated aluminum plate insulated underneath and leveled with three wing nuts. The 6 mm guide rods support and guide the 3 axis. (2 each) these are held in the frame by simple steel collars .The X and Y axis are powered by nema 14 motors and the Z and Ext ruder are nema 17 . I expected 17s all around but not a big deal.
X and Y axis are driven by timing belts. seem to work fine as long as tension is kept in adjustment.
The extruder is a simple deal but easy to change filament. a toothed pulley drives the plastic a bearing pushes against the plastic via a spring loaded lever. Press the lever to change /installl /remove filament. As with many of the reprap cousins there are many 3D printed parts used to assemble this machine Sd does not offer the files to print replacements but these are available through forums and thiniverse.
As with many / most hobby level entry level machine there is lots of room to upgrade


Things I have learned. All movements are in reference to the tool I should know this x and y is easy a -Z will shove the pint nozzle into your part an ruin it and twist the x axis guide rod. no harm just adjustment.
after a stupid crash figure out what moved adjust what moved not something else.
x axis twist easy to detect and adjust with a level. If your software is showing something that looks like a partial blue screen of death DO NOT HIT START !!! this will also case a crash as the software just lost its mind . reboot the software and start with fresh g code.

Some experts say that mainstream home 3d printing is 5 years away. That may be true before we see a plug a n play reliable affordable home machine.

I am a life long learner and my home shop is like a university engineering lab. I want to learn new technology and experiment.
And sometime it is just as important to know what does not work as well as what does.
Tin


. I may still build one more to my liking but I wanted needed a starting point. a base line if you will without spending a grand on a makerbot.
 
Printed this for my great nephew/grand nephew.
stock photo from soliddoodle
Tin

sheep.jpg
 
When I got my 3D printer I joined a support frum. And I am finding that these machines do in fact need a bit of adjustment out of the box . this was a post I wrote on that forum.



I was recently at a 3D printing conference I was asked;" What printer you have?" Not unusual , common when you tell people you have a 3D printer. .When I answered a Silidoodle 4 the next question was," Did you get it to work?"
My response was handing the person a successful print! Not a question I expected. But I was standing in a world of mostly Ulimakers and ultimaker users. Great machines but several times the cost of my machine.
SOOOOO I am finding the world of 3D printing is not unlike the other experiences I have had in life with hobby machines. I learned many years ago that a new bicycle no matter how nice needs to be assembled and adjusted before riding and then adjusted again soon after assembly and the wise patience diligent mechanic not only adjusts but takes things apart first cleans out the junk and chips left by manufacturing adds quality grease reassembles then adjusts the bearing races trues the wheels adjusts the brakes etc.
If you want a smooth ride and the machine to last you need to do this.
Then later in life I got into machining as a hobby after receiving professional training. And once again found hobby machine tools are pre assembled kits. One needs to disassemble remove chips and burrs clean off the gunk the factory puts on for rust protection and add real lubrication reassemble and adjust.
It seems the Home hobby level of the 3d printers are along the same lines. The unit is assembled at the factory but there is no time for fine tuning re checking screws etc and it seems things do come loose in shipping. belts are on the loose side back lash is evident.
And in this modern world of no documentation or software shipped in the package we are forced to hunt the internet for a viable initial setup procedure to get things going. In this world of instant foods and plug and play devises we often forget that many worthwhile things in life require set up and a maintenance to perform well.

Tin



And to show I am in fact making things with this machine here is a photo of my latest print of note. A friend of the family is an avid Who fan and since I happened to have a roll of glow in the dark blue filament I just had to print this. I know it is a bit light for true Tardis blue but I figured glow in the dark on a outlet cover would give it a nice sci fi effect.

Tin


Tardis Outlet.jpg
 
A great item to print. It is not surprising, but always aggravating that makers of fairly expensive machines to have none of the needed documentation, setup instructions.

About 50 years my Mom bought a new washing machine, it came with a Phonograph record on how to use the machine, 35 years ago I bought a washing machine it came with a video tape on use. 10 years ago I got another washer, it came with nothing.

You are likely on top of the current printer growth model, it seems like there will be local print shops, which you send a file and they print your item for you. A friend of ours designs jewelry, and has it printed in bronze and SS. It is not finely detailed as yet, but for the market its good.

Always interested in NEW Stuff.
 
There is a small outfit that conducts 3-d classes. Would like to attend but I am so short of space. You can bet, on completion of same course,Gus will buy a 3-d. Still dragging my feet. For now I have no requirement of same.
 
After feeling very successful with early prints and making things for people seems like I have hit a bump in the learning curve.
Guess a week or so ago I downloaded the latest version of repetier host I am regretting it. I am tempted to go back to the .85 version. or maybe just to 1.03
yesterday afternoon just for fun I decided to do the solidoodle poodle. just a fun little dog statue. And I ended up with a headless dog. apparently slic3r did not complete the model. the part that printed looks smooth and great but no head and I just had to try a second time . glutton for punishment. so move on to another model and it breaks loos from the bed about 1/3rd of the way though. Then about 1/4 the way though a Maltese falcon I must have bumped the print head and cased it to shift. another fail . So I resliced the dog with cura it will be a bit fuzzy not a good day with the printer.

Just when you THINK you learned here comes the curve ball.

I know thinks could be worse it is just a few grams of wasted plastic.

tin
 
I also loaded the latest repetier and am about ready to go back. have you found a way to turn on the heaters in manual mode? Those buttons seem to have disappeared. I was also a little put off by the 'donate now' screen and the tiny link to download without donating.

I am planning to take my Solidoodle to the APM model show this coming weekend, so I want to get this thing working- going back to the old version seems like the best idea.
 
Hey Ron The biggest trick I have found regarding manual mode is TURN the EASY BUTTON OFF.
I have had not problem turning heaters on and off adjusting heat settings etc. the on off switch is the Icon on the left end of the temp bar the bed symbol and the extruder symbol.
For the most part the prints have been coming out ok.
I love the manual mode turn up the extruder temp slow the speed to about 80% set the extruer to 120% and get a nice gooey layer that turns into solid glass smooth bottom on my part.

the other RH upgrades were not a problem they used the older parameters .

Once i realized some of the park and home setting were backwards to what I was used to and makes sense things worked better first the extruder sat on the part when finished . Bad idea then I turned on the park after job end and it parked in the front left corner of the bed. the home limits on x and y were set to 0 instead of max. .....


Had to laugh on of the guys on the soliforum has this as a sig line. sound familiar.

If you build it they will come. Then they will make fun of it, tell you
it's not worth doing and go home and try to copy you.

The toolas change but attudes towards hobbies are often consistent.




I am planning to take my Solidoodle to the APM model show this coming weekend, so I want to get this thing working- going back to the old version seems like the best idea.
Enjoy the show Have not yet taken my SD to a show.
If you look at your settings and look at your g code you can probably find the quirks. You have more cnc experience than I do.


Tin
 
Ok an update I have been having fun with the solidoodle. I have printed several Items for family and friends. It does cool artistic trinkets, but seems like this thing will not print a true circle to save its life. And a circle is kind of important for making things like model steam engines. ever try mating a less than perfect oval cylinder to similar shaped piston.
So I have been pondering making new carriage parts. My attempts to print Lawsey carriage parts has been less than stellar. So I am thinking making some from aluminum. Looks like it has been done.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:121217/#files

000_preview_featured.jpg

DXF files available at the above link. I can post pdf files if someone wants them.

Dug out a piece of 5/8 and a piece of 1/4 aluminum. so hope to find the motivation over the next few days to get this done.
Tin
 
Still trying to decide what to do with this machine . It works just not as well as I like. I am still trying to figure out what it needs.
In the mean time came across a couple files I had to print.
So here is the gang. That crawled out of the printer in the last couple days. I decided to try the mirror function and it seems to work.
Tin

critters.jpg
 
A fun day with the printer. We hosted a birthday party for my grandson. I had the printer going all day and printed a bunch of the bunnies in various colors.
I let people take them home as party favors. Lots of questions about 3-d printing and people were interested in the technology kind of like a mini show.
Tin
 
Having some fawn with the printer.
Should I name it John.
last weekend I let my nephew who is an avid hunter look through thiniverse and pick out something we could print for him. he selected this fawn.
I also decided it would be nice to have some caps for 9v batteries for storage and transport. Seems like the battery on the mutimeter needs replacing on a regular basis.
Tin

9Vcap.jpg


Fawn.jpg
 
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