side valve aka flat head model engine.

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nesan

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Hi all talented people!
I am a crazy one, hunted with dreams of engines since the far i could remember, now I am in early past middle age; trying to fill some of my dreams.
The long stroke flat head engine.! I appreciate your teachings, views, comments, and sharing knowledge.
I am planning to buy a mini electric foundry. I never did any casting myself before. do you guys thing it is good enough for my project.?
the foundry link
link"131.1US $ 31% OFF|110V/220V~2KG GOLD, COPPER, SILVER, ALUMINUM, IRON, MELTING FURNACE,GOLD MELTING FURNACE jewelry tools|furnace types|furnace cleaningfurnace switch - AliExpress"


please advice me
nesan
 

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That all depends on how big your parts are. The crucible is rated to hold 2Kg of gold. Gold weighs 19.3 g/cc, so that means the crucible has a volume of at least 103 cc's, which is pretty small. It's OK for jewelery and REALLY small parts, but not much else.

This unit resembles the elecctric foundry that myfordboy used in a couple of his videos, but the foundry that he used had a 3Kg capacity crucible. Up to a point, a bigger crucible is always better. If you haven't seen them yet, Google "myfordboy electric foundry" and you'll find the videos I'm talking about.

As long as the total volume of your part, the the riser, and the gate needed to cast the part, all add up to less than 103 cc's then you could use this unit. But judging by the size of the parts that myfordboy was able to cast, I think you'd want to pass on the 2Kg unit in favor of something a little bit bigger.

Don
 
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Hi Thanks Don! I will go with 3kg one, or bigger if possible. thanks again for indicating this limitation.
nesan
 
Hello!
I have been casting aluminium and bronze for a while. I started up using coal, but went over to gas. I also tried electric, but think its much more boost in gas-driver. Look at below link for an example of what I got. Also look at the crucible (which has to be replaced now and then). Please don't buy a too small furnace!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265335815667?hash=item3dc73f3df3:g:CKYAAOSwtzphVH7b
 
You could try casting in MAKAC scrap (Zinc Alloy) - as it requires so much less heat. Then when you have mastered your techniques (BELIEVE ME - It takes a lot of trial and tribulation to become a proficient foundry-man) - Only then start looking at big furnaces and bigger castings in materials that require Gi-huge amounts of fuel and create large volumes of liquid fire (molten metal). I have some foundry-man's gear - leather apron (VERY HEAVY!), leather sleeve... and a foundry-man showed me his special foundry-man's boots. = NO HOLES where splashed molten metal could get into the shoe or down the leg. You also need gloves, helmet safety glasses and face shield, fireproof boiler suit, etc... Spilled molten metal on concrete can explode the surface, you need extra fire-brick hearths for pre-heating crucibles, transfer pots, etc. ALL fuel supplies must be kept separated from the hot zone for melting and pouring metal. You really need to think about what happens if a crucible splits when you are half way from the furnace to the mould for pouring.
Think ahead, then ask for expert criticism of what you plan to do, then improve, repeat and after a few repeats you'll know what to buy. It's not just a furnace, crucible and some metal, then make castings, but a proper foundry shop that you need for safety. Buy a book on "the home foundry", read learn and then consider your plans.
On my first visit to a cast-iron foundry, I asked why they didn't have a concrete floor, just "black foundry sand" - The answer (of course) was that any lime (cement) or substances that contain water in the floor could explode with the temperature WHEN molten metal is spilled... - so they plan for that as well as lots of other things, for safety.
ENJOY!
K2
 
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