Shriner parade car

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stevehuckss396

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Headlights and bracket are done. The full size headlights were 4 inch peanut tins.
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johnmcc69

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Great work Steve! (On both projects)

I like the headlights, will you be installing some type of electrical system? (hide a battery box somewhere to run the lights?).

John
 

stevehuckss396

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Great work Steve! (On both projects)

I like the headlights, will you be installing some type of electrical system? (hide a battery box somewhere to run the lights?).

John

No sir i will not. The cars did not come wired until real late when they started putting electric start motors in them. My car is modeled from a 1974 car and that wasn't part of the car. The car had peanut cans for headlights with no wiring.
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The car I modeled is now a tow truck.
 
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Do you have a build log for the radials

I tried to buy the plans for the 9 cylinder ageless radial but he would not sell them to me
He originally agreed to sell me the plans because I already have a spare ignition system that he recommends but when I tried to find the best way to pay he tells me I would be better off to find a different project.
A bit rude I thought

Anyway would be interested to follow yours if you are doing build log
 

stevehuckss396

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Do you have a build log for the radials

I tried to buy the plans for the 9 cylinder ageless radial but he would not sell them to me
He originally agreed to sell me the plans because I already have a spare ignition system that he recommends but when I tried to find the best way to pay he tells me I would be better off to find a different project.
A bit rude I thought

Anyway would be interested to follow yours if you are doing build log

No I do not. There have been so many build logs of the engine that i figured i would be beating a dead horse. I did nake a few changes in the rocker system. I also comensated the rod so the pistons would get to top dead center every 40 degrees. That required changing the stroke to gain clearance for the rod. The rods were lengthened and the pistons were domed to make up for the los of stroke and compression. The cam timing was changed to my liking. Changed the sparkplugs to 1/4-32 so i didnt have to cut half of the head away to fit the CM6. Other than that its basically stock

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dsage

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Sorry Steve. I didn't mean to send your thread off on a tangent.

Lets keep this about the cars shall we folks.

Wonderful work as usual. Amazing.
Too bad I won't get to see it / them at NAMES.
 

stevehuckss396

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Hot off the press! well, printer press Haha! Looks really good. There were some fine hairs on the surface so i scrapped them off with a putty knife. I just need to remove it from the supports without breaking it. Rear half is printing right now. I will let you know how that went in 16 hours and 21 minutes! I did some experimenting with the first bad ones. Apparently you can "tig" weld them together with some filiment and a soldering iron. I think i am going to join them that way. Just before i tossed them I pulled down on the two ends and the fenders broke before the welded joint. Proof enough for me.
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stevehuckss396

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Well we are half way home. Instead of screwing around with epoxies and glues I decided to use my soldering iron and "TIG" weld the halves together using the 2D filament as a filler rod. It worked better than I thought and i have a good strong joint. Once both sides are complete there is a bracket that spans the car and supports the running boards. I will need to make that bracket and a transmission related bracket and all the pieces of the car will be there.



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stevehuckss396

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So I printed the right side again. Those are now welded together. That allowed me to make the fender support. My to do list is getting shorter. Also I had the door skins soldered to the outside of the firewall. I spent an hour getting that apart and cleaned up. Got the door skins moved to the inside of the firewall and resoldered. Most are welded but the car I'm modeling has 3 #10 screws holding the skin to the firewall. I'm thinking about putting the 3 screws in to mimic the design but still unsure.
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ddmckee54

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You've got the 3D model for the fenders, with a little adaptation you could print the dies to press actual brass fenders. I've seen 3D printed parts used as dies for limited runs of steel parts too.

Just a thought,
Don
 

stevehuckss396

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You've got the 3D model for the fenders, with a little adaptation you could print the dies to press actual brass fenders. I've seen 3D printed parts used as dies for limited runs of steel parts too.

Just a thought,
Don

That would not be an option as the original fenders are plastic on the full size car.
 

johnmcc69

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That would not be an option as the original fenders are plastic on the full size car.

But...do they need to be? It's not the "Full size car".

I agree with DDMckee54, making forms for brass & light steel. In the time it took you to print one fender, you could have pressed out quite a few fenders.

I know you'll say that this is a "one off", but that's probably what you thought when you did the FIRST restoration.

John
 

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