Shop dilemma.

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If you can sneak in 1 or 2, 240v outlets, they can come in mighty handy at times. I have a couple and use them to plug in my 4500 watt heater on the coldest winter days here in Austin. I also use 240v for my plasma cutter.

I also put in several recycled kitchen wall cabinets for all sorts of storage. Craig's list is a good source for pretty good cabinets that can usually be had for cheap.

Over the years, I've learned to put as much as I can on casters so they can be rolled around. This includes my Mill Drill, my tool chest, and several roll around storage cabinets that I built. Oh, yeah, my tablesaw and Delta Jig saw are also on casters. Mobile tools are especially important in smaller workshops.

Chuck
 
2nd the 240v if it's reasonably handy. Bigger tools really like 240v (my 12" lathe for one), and VFDs to make 1 phase into 3-phase 240 only go up to 1HP or so in 110v.
 
Like Stan, I have a bench with a power strip on the rail in front of the bench. Haven't knocked anything off the bench with a power cord after having it there. Had overhead outlets in the old shop for the drill press and other machines. That was real nice not have power cables in the way.

Kenny
 
My dream shop separate circuit for machines and lighting. A key switch to control the machine circuit(s). When I worked in the USAF shop most of the machines had a key switch to start or turn on most of the machines . This prevents use by unauthorized untrained users. Years ago Norm Abrams built a home shop in a garage that had the key master switch feature I like the Idea. Also most school shops have a key to turn on power and an e- stop that anyone can shut the shop down in a few seconds.
Also a separate circuit for lighting prevents being left in the dark if a machine trips a cB.
Tin
 
Getting back to Bearcat's idea, whyn't move the door to the corner and put the airlock/foyer inside the enclosed area?
 
I like the idea of switched outlets. I put some sockets in circuit with the lights in my shop a while back and like them a lot. It's not a heavy circuit so I can't put the AC or compressor on there (I need to switch it, I'm always leaving it on-- maybe a photocell or something), but a lot of the equipment and the radio is now switched on and off automatically whenever I leave the shop.

Another handy gadget for anybody forgetful about unplugging or turning off things like soldering irons is an outlet on a timer. If you forget, it'll click itself off.
 
My outlets in the ceiling are on a switch for the 4 shop lights, I have split the room into two circuits to handle heavier loads. By the way the AC is really great. I have spent the last two nights in the shop with the AC on and trying to learn to tape and bed again. Hopefully I will have everything ready to paint this weekend. My wife has offered to paint it for me so I may take her up on it. (I hate painting) Looks like I will have to texture the walls to cover up my poor bedding job but no matter. I have so much stuff you wont see much of the walls anyway.

I have 240v outlet just outside and I don't have enough room for my plasma cutter or welders inside anyway. I too have a timer on my power strip that is in my garage and it will all get moved to the new shop. I used it on my small under the bench compressor so if it was left on it would not kick on during the night. (noisy little thing)

I will take another picture or two when I get the lights hung. Right now it really too dark to tell much since I only have one light leaned against the wall until I get the ceiling finished.
 
The shop is almost ready to move into. I painted the floor this evening and if its dry tomorrow I will get to work building the bench for the tools. I liked to have never found a paint for the floor. Everything I looked out seemed to have terrible ratings and most of it was expensive. I went to the lumber yard this morning to get some paint for the walls and there in the clearance isle was a polyurethane based floor paint for 1/2 off. Heck for 12.75 a gallon I will try anything once.

I will post some more pics tomorrow if the floor dries enough to walk on. Green floor, Battle ship gray 1/2 way up the wall, white on top with white ceiling. No dust anywhere. :big:
 
The two tone walls are a smart move. I don't like a green floor, but any kind of paint on the floor makes cleanup much easier. You might have to wait several days for poly urethane paint to get really hard. OK to walk on but don't drag machinery around until it is hard.
 
Well I had great intentions to post pictures this evening but I am too dang tired. Maybe tomorrow night.
Stan, you are correct on all point regarding the floor. I have already gotten some chips in it and the green is going to show dirt really bad. None the less it is at least sealed. What can I say I went cheap and got what I paid for. Seams like every floor paint out there has some draw back or another. My wife wanted me to epoxy the the floor and put those little chips in the paint. I thought about if for a while and decided I did not want to try to find a 2-56 screw on the floor amongst all those little different color chips. (Needle in the haystack thing)

TF- I cannot believe I have gotten as far as I have in two weekends. With my wife and sons help it has gone very fast. All I need to do is paint the work bench legs, polyurethane the top and start moving equipment. I opted to split the work bench and leave a space in the middle for my floor model drill press and the trash can. Metal turning equipment on one side and grinder, sander on the other.

Even the tips of my finger or sore so I am going to quit typing now. Look for pics tomorrow night.
Madness.
 
Masonite (trade name of tempered hardboard) makes a good bench top. 1/4" material tacked down with a couple of brads is a durable surface that is easy to clean. More important it is cheap and easy to replace when it gets damaged.
 
Well here are some pictures of my nearly finished shop. Tell me what you think.

Untitled 0 00 07-14.jpg


Untitled 0 00 28-16.jpg
 
Now that looks mighty damned nice!

Looks like it'll be a very comfortable place to work.
 
I still have some things to do to make it habitable. Paint the benches, poly the tops, touch up some paint, install the beer box, stereo, wireless, bed, etc. I am trying to take my time and not start cramming stuff in there before its ready. (the space by the chairs that does not have a lower shelf is for the dorm room ice box and the vacuum sweeper.
 
Coming along very nicely, RCM. Looking forward to more pics as you progress.
 
I sure am jealous. You are going to have a mighty fine shop. Keep us posted on your progress.

SAM
 
Now thats purddy. I managed to sheet my ceilings and walls this spring but only got half painted before the urge kicked in to get machinery back in place. Regret it every time someone walks in. Congrats on the will power to put off play time.
 
Not trying to hijack the thread, but for concrete floors I have had good luck with the age old light gray, indoor/outdoor porch and floor enamel. It stands up well except right in front of the lathe and mill, unless you use a mat.
 
I started moving into the shop this evening. I touched up some paint issues and installed the floor model drill press, bench drill press, stereo, craftsman tool box and some of my boxed tools. I am having to take time and clean all this stuff before I move it in. It has been in the barn for several years and its covered with dirt and cobwebs. Hopefully tomorrow I can start putting the mill and lathe in place. It has been raining all day and expected to rain through the long weekend.

None the less I now have a place to make my own. ;D

Stan, I would probably have been better off with a lite gray paint. When and if I paint it again I will probably go back with gray. I have two red craftsman mats for in front of the bench that will cover a lot.

 

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