Setting up Shop Questions - from an NZ learner

Discussion in 'The Shop' started by joco-nz, Aug 1, 2016.

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  1. Mar 18, 2017 #501

    bazmak

    bazmak

    bazmak

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    Photos are great as are the clamps.You have done a great job.YOUR knobs
    are really great,why not keep up the high standard and taper both legs
    maybe even radius the ends.To my mind perfection
    I follow all (your only thread) with great interest.You started out as a newby
    asking what lathe do i buy and you have become very confident and adept
    from now on its all experience,with your first thread having tens of thousands of views.You have my admiration Regards barry
     
  2. Mar 18, 2017 #502

    joco-nz

    joco-nz

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    Barry - thanks for your kinds words. As I get into more specific projects I'll start splitting things up I think. This thread is rather large. However as I continue to evolve the workshop and its kit I think I'll keep posting into this thread.

    My first planned real engine project will be to follow a series of articles from Model Engineering Magazine called "Helping Dad Make a True Vertical Mill Engine". I have all the articles the plans and after an order this evening I believe nearly all the materials (some bought and some kindly donated by Bruce - bruedney).

    This being a snap from the magazine of what I will try and achieve. If I get it looking that good AND running on my first engine build I will be a very happy man.
    Screen Shot 2017-03-18 at 7.54.01 PM.png
     
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  3. Apr 2, 2017 #503

    joco-nz

    joco-nz

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    So essentially I need to make space in the garage to get the wifes car back in. So to do that I need to use up some box section steel. Solution, make a better cart for the bandsaw.

    So some pics of what has been done - welded top frames and laid out the general shape.
    bandsawcart - 1a.jpg
    bandsawcart - 2a.jpg


    Today got into some more stuff ...
    [1] Got the 40AMP plasma cutter unit all plumbed up to the compressor with double moisture traps on the line as I have heard that any moisture line the air will cause the torch to burn through tips rapidly.
    Then use said cutter for my very first use of a plasma cutter - ever.

    [2] Bandsaw cart progress.
    Pics #1 to #3 show my first attempt at cutting stuff. The slag on the back of the cut breaks off very easily with a cold chisel just being used by hand, no hammer. The cut was done with a straight edge but I had issues with torch height. I think I need to make some kind of support on the torch head that will keep the tip at a constant height and square to the metal. The same support could also be attached to a trammel system for cutting arcs/circles.
    bandsawcart - 1.jpg
    bandsawcart - 2.jpg
    bandsawcart - 3.jpg


    Pic #4:
    The wheel mounting pads (6mm mild steel) which were initially hacked off with the plasma cutter then halved on bandsaw for a little more accuracy. Pads all welded on and ready to be drilled and tapped M6.
    bandsawcart - 4.jpg

    Pic #5:
    Two wheels mounted. I got one more mounted then I gave up for then evening. After breaking a 3mm drill and a 3.5 mm drill I decided I was getting too tired.
    bandsawcart - 5.jpg

    Pic #6:
    Close up of a mounted wheel with the M6 screws holding it all on.
    bandsawcart - 6.jpg
     
  4. Apr 8, 2017 #504

    joco-nz

    joco-nz

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    A little more done today in between some family time.

    Got the last of the wheels mounted.

    Cut the mounting cross beams and the "tabs" that will be the bolt mount points. Then laid them out on top of the cart.
    bandsawcart - 1.jpg

    What I can't quite decide on is if to have the bolting tabs on the outside of the saw body or on the inside.

    Anyone think one is better than the other? Ascetically I suspect the inside option would look cleaner.
    bandsawcart - 2.jpg

    Cheers,
    J.
     
  5. Apr 8, 2017 #505

    rodw

    rodw

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    Looks good. Check the angle of the castings you are bolting to before you decide. Weld some nuts on the tabs and mount on the inside if you can. That will look the nicest and also be easy to install it.
     
  6. Apr 10, 2017 #506

    joco-nz

    joco-nz

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    A little more done. Welded up some angle iron to create the "lip" that the tray will be placed in.

    bandsawcart - 1.jpg
     
  7. Apr 17, 2017 #507

    joco-nz

    joco-nz

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    Continuing on with my theme of "just a little bit more" I've managed to make some progress in between other garage committments and my son wanting to make Woverine claws on the 3dprinter for a short film hes's doing with mates.

    Got the cross supports setup and the saw off the old stand. Things are all welded up now and ready for the next stage, putting the bolt tabs on. Note: this pic was pre welding but other than some welds nothing really different.

    Bandsaw-pos1.jpg
     
  8. Apr 17, 2017 #508

    joco-nz

    joco-nz

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    Last update for the weekend. Started welding the tabs that will sit inside the bandsaw's casting. They need to be at an 82 degree angle so a little bit of trig showed I need about a 5mm riser to get the required angle.
    bandsawcart - 1.jpg
     
  9. Apr 18, 2017 #509

    joco-nz

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    woohoo! :thumbup: Finally got all the hold tabs welded and drilled and a trial bolt-up done. Next will be welding the nuts on the back of the tabs, mounting and sealing the drip tray then paint paint paint.

    bandsawcart - 1.jpg

    bandsawcart - 2.jpg
     
  10. Apr 18, 2017 #510

    goldstar31

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    Just a hint or two- so don't be offended.

    Increase the size of that loose angle thing! Secondly, Change the adjusting nuts to slacken and tighten - by hand.

    'Twas what my old 6 x 4 had fitted as 'standard'

    Regards

    N
     
  11. Apr 18, 2017 #511

    joco-nz

    joco-nz

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    Norm - no offence at all! :)

    Adding some length to the "loose angle thing" is on the list as is a tensioning bolt for when its trying to clamp on somehting that doesnt go past the point of rotation.

    I've managed to get by without having to tension/untension stuff too much. But you are right having to reach for a spanner is wearing thin.

    There are other mods by a fellow kiwi that I like the look of which are shown here: http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,6363.0.html

    I also have some ideas re leveraging this big ass frame to create some flat support/mounting space to the right of the blade (look at the saw from clamp handle end). If do that then I get the ability to mount some big rounds of steel or caste iron to be sliced off in a single cut for such things as fly wheels in a single cut. Where as at the moment I need to muck about with a fussy multi cut process as the boom hits the top of the round.

    All good fun.

    Cheers,
    J.
     
  12. Apr 18, 2017 #512

    bruedney

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    Might have to get you to build me one of those. :thumbup:
     
  13. Apr 19, 2017 #513

    DJP

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    Your frame looks sturdy enough to stand on which is a good thing. When cutting with the blade vertical I need to place my knee on the saw bed to prevent it from tipping backwards. The weight of the motor and gear box hang out enough to make it tippy.

    You may need to stand on your frame when pushing a work piece into the blade. Now would be the time to weld on extra custom provisions if you need them.
     
  14. Apr 19, 2017 #514

    joco-nz

    joco-nz

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    DJP - good points and I have some ideas for rapid deployed feet to help with leveling on crappy garage floors and deal with the inevitable small amount of twist in the welded frame.

    On the tipping side I deliberately designed to cope with the. The base goes back a little further than where the motor hangs when boom is vertical. Net effect is I have wheels slightly beyond he heavy motor meaning its pretty dang stable.

    Still have more welding to do for add ons. Which should see me finishing up this bottle of co2/argon. Then its onto to pure argon and TIG welding for some new fun. :)
     
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  15. Apr 19, 2017 #515

    joco-nz

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    It's a little over engineered, but its rather nice and SOLID. :thumbup: :hDe:
     
  16. Apr 19, 2017 #516

    bruedney

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    Over engineered - by you - never!!!
     
  17. Apr 26, 2017 #517

    joco-nz

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    Some more good progress with the switch being remounted and a new fitting to "knock" the off button in its new position.

    The base fits nicely on the finalised mounting tabs (set on the inside of the casting base) with the bolts nuts welded on to to angled tabs.

    Now to start working on the cut off support table.

    bandsawcart - 1.jpg
     
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  18. Apr 30, 2017 #518

    joco-nz

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    Some more progress. Key steps forward being:
    [1] Frame painted up
    [2] drip tray secured in place with drain plug installed to support coolant system

    bandsawcart - 1.jpg
    bandsawcart - 2.jpg

    [3] new mounts for switch and the cut depth stop
    bandsawcart - 3.jpg

    [4] version 1 of a cutoff "table" built and installed
    bandsawcart - 4.jpg
    bandsawcart - 5.jpg
     
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  19. May 4, 2017 #519

    joco-nz

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    Bandsaw mounted on newly painted cart ready for work on coolant/lubricant system and putting some cupboard space under it for bits and pieces.

    bandsawcart - 1.jpg
     
  20. May 5, 2017 #520

    Journeyman

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    James, you may want to think about using a seperate switch rather than the NVR on/off switch for the auto-off. If something goes awry it might not be a good idea trying to press the red button and have the saw drop on your finger. A heavy duty roller micro-switch in series with the NVR would I think be the way to go and put the NVR somewhere that you can reach in an emergency.
    John
     

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