Rubber part mold?

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mgbrv8

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I am making some small run epoxy molds for some rubber vacuum system parts for my ZR1 corvette. I was wondering what high density silicone or other material I could inject in the mold to simulates the high density rubber( little softer then tire rubber) that the originals were made of. Also would silicone set up in a closed cavity mold? Any suggestions? also I attached a picture of one of the parts. The parts are all small (palm sized). Some of the pars will be in the PCV system so some oil vapor will be in contact with the parts.

Dave

breathers1(small).jpg
 
Dave, I make all sorts of polyurethane seals in my home workshop.

These are typically two part rapid curing resins which can be gravity poured.

Ideally vacuum degassed before pouring.

Typically I do mine in alluminium moulds and use an old truck oil filter and water filter as pressure / vacuum pots.

But you can create moulds in silicon or hard polyurethane about wax models or 3D "prints" - many ways of skinning this particular cat.

None of this is particularly difficult but a fair amount of knowing what works and what doesn't comes with experience.

I will be doing a post on this shortly.

You must use release agents unless you are using silicone moulds.

The polyurethanes come in various hardness grades from soft to rock solid and can be coloured.

Look up the "Smooth On" product range - which I have used extensively - but there are plenty of others available. If you find a local supplier of the resins you will normally find they can provide you with a wealth of "How To" information.
Dscf0011.jpg


Some examples. The little conical dodahh at the top right even has a thread moulded into its base - this was a seal to test a fuel injector port on a machine I designed.

All the above are in 70 Shore "D" hardness which is a little softer than tyre rubber (90) and I would guess is exacly what you are looking for.

Polyurethane is resistant to most solvents and oils - handles temperature up to about 120°C well - thereafter is starts to soften and ultimately melts. I have made a number of "underhood" parts which have performed well.

Ken
 
Ken I said:
Dave, I make all sorts of polyurethane seals in my home workshop.

These are typically two part rapid curing resins which can be gravity poured.

Ideally vacuum degassed before pouring.

Typically I do mine in alluminium moulds and use an old truck oil filter and water filter as pressure / vacuum pots.

But you can create moulds in silicon or hard polyurethane about wax models or 3D "prints" - many ways of skinning this particular cat.

None of this is particularly difficult but a fair amount of knowing what works and what doesn't comes with experience.

I will be doing a post on this shortly.

You must use release agents unless you are using silicone moulds.

The polyurethanes come in various hardness grades from soft to rock solid and can be coloured.

Look up the "Smooth On" product range - which I have used extensively - but there are plenty of others available. If you find a local supplier of the resins you will normally find they can provide you with a wealth of "How To" information.
Dscf0011.jpg


Some examples. The little conical dodahh at the top right even has a thread moulded into its base - this was a seal to test a fuel injector port on a machine I designed.

All the above are in 70 Shore "D" hardness which is a little softer than tyre rubber (90) and I would guess is exacly what you are looking for.

Polyurethane is resistant to most solvents and oils - handles temperature up to about 120°C well - thereafter is starts to soften and ultimately melts. I have made a number of "underhood" parts which have performed well.

Ken



Do you have a part number for the polyurethane resin for the parts?

Dave
 
Dave, I mostly use VYTAFLEX 60 - also get their So Strong - pigment for the colour you want.

Ken
 
Is this the same kind of stuff the use for roller blade wheels?
 
Yes - the same kind of stuff - like I said it comes in grades from marshmallow to wood - in hardness.

Ken
 
I've been looking for PU elastomer that would be compatible with fuel, but it seems this is not in the two part castable range. I do see however there are countless formula for PU elastomers. Not only hardness ranges, but chemistry.

Greg
 
Resistance to fuels and solvents is limited - very few wreck or dissolve the stuff but many cause it to soften and swell - petrol typically contains over 300 chemical species and you only need one of them to be a problem - so its always advisable to check by immersing a cured sample for some time.

I know little about the chemistry - but yes there are many formulations - not least the rate at which they cure (can be so fast especially in hot weather that it is difficult to work with).

The Smooth-On product range allows the use of an optional "Kick-It" accellerator. (Usual disclaimers - I have no particular interest in this brand - but is mostly what I am currently using.)

One company I used to buy from would formulate resins specially just for little old me - however they were bought out be a much larger concern that subsequently went bust.

Get advice / samples (they will normally give cured sample swatches for testing) from your supplier.

Regards,
Ken

 
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