Re: First Engine No Plans.

[rickharris]

Dream? A really big, perhaps full size beam engine. i have only seen one running in the science museum and never under steam Awesome engineering.

 

[Twinsquirrel]

Hi Rick,

I think the only large beam engine still being used for it's original purpose in its original location is not far from me, at Crofton near Marlborough. They have it in steam quite often during the summer months and I can tell you it's well worth a visit.

David

 

[John S]

Well never got to build the model but did work on the 12" to the foot engines in my early days.

A friend has one he takes to rallies so i did him this badge.

.

 

[BobWarfield]

Would love to build:

1. A Merlin

2. A turbojet

3. A scale model radial of some famous engine

But, the one I've been dreaming of and designing is an Orrery inspired by the Antikythera Mechanism that was unearthed from an ancient ship. Here is a 3D model (no, it isn't real!) of a similar astronomical clock:

And here is the page where I keep my design notes: http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCOrreryNotes.html

I believe I have all the proper gear ratios figured out for what would be quite an interesting mechanism. Here is a schematic of the ratios I drew:

And some of the preliminary mechanism drawings done with Rhino3D:

Non-trivial project, eh? And no way will I attempt it until my CNC machines are working well and I've done a number of other complex projects. Those engines would be a good warmup though!

Cheers,

BW

 

[ChooChooMike]

My dream project is to build a live steam locomotive - one of the size you ride upon. Yes, it's feasible, but my machining chops are still way lacking to even think about that size. I need to build a few more steam engines of increasing complexity before trying a locomotive model. Kozo's locomotive books (Shay/Heisler/Climax) are a great way to do that !

Wanting to build a locomotive is the reason I started in this hobby 4 years ago :big:

Mike

 

[Bernd]

I'm with you Mike. I would like to build a 1 1/2" scale live steamer. Have all of Kozo's books and the casting for a 1.5" scale Shay. Plus six acers to place track on. Of courrse then there's the live steam crawler and the .............. Oh, I'm back now. :big:

Bernd

 

[Kludge]

Well, if the FAA hadn't seen fit to ground me 30 years ago (medical), it would be a brace of R-2600s complete with attached B-25. But they did and having such an airplane would be a bit of an extravagance now as a result so a 1/4 size version would be a good consolation prize. It would still be made as a post-war civilian version (better aerodynamics) and have a camera package in the bomb bay like the Ziroli version I have the plans for now, but I'd be able to add extra capabilities to it and generally have a lot more fun with the Coasties. ;D

Of course, I don't have anywhere to build anything like that nor do I have the tooling to even consider the little pieces but it's a cool dream anyway.

BEst regards,

Kludge ... who thinks the B-25 is the best looking aircraft to come out of WW II and even now doesn't have much in the way of competition.

 

[cfellows]

Kludge,

I'd have to agree that the B-25 is one very nice looking aircraft, one of my favorites. However, to me, the P-38 edges it out just a little. Of course, totally different types of warplane!

Chuck

 

[Kludge]

However, to me, the P-38 edges it out just a little. Of course, totally different types of warplane!

What always bothered me about it wasn't that it's not a lovely airplane - it is - but two engines seemed a bit of overkill. I think Adm Yamamoto (That's right, isn't it? My memory's not kicked into gear yet.) would agree since that's what shot him down.

One of the more amazing aircraft was the Douglas SBD which was the only Navy bomber to have a positive kill ratio against the Japanese because it handled more like a fighter plus had that nasty stinger in back. A number of SBD pilots eventually transfered to fighter squadrons based on their experience with that aircraft.

Its replacement, the TBF/TBM, is another airplane I'd be tempted to model in 1/4 scale if I had the facilities, though I'm not sure which version. It probably would wind up a hybrid like the ones used for a while as fire bombers. That would be dream #2, I guess.

Best regards,

Kludge

 

[steamer]

Mike
A 1 1/2 scale loco is definitely doable.
And not as hard as maybe you think it is.

Do one thing at a time and before you know it, your going down the line.

Dave

 

[dparker]

Sorveltaja: Not meaning to be a smart alec, but, my Son (then about 3 years old) told my Dad "read the destructions Grandpa".
My Daughter helped me buy a new camera two weeks ago and I have read the "destructions" and still do not really know how, when or why you should turn the knob or push the buttons.
I did a little experimenting and took some pictures of some of my old pictures and was fairly pleased with the results.
I can feel your pain.
Good Luck------don

 

[bentprop]

When taking close up shots,it is generally necessary to have a tripod,or other steady,to avoid camera shake.Even just holding the camera down on a flat surface will help.The short focus magnifies any movement to the point where your photos become blurry.Also,with digi-cameras,the shutter button usually has 2 distinct "phases",very light pressure will focus,and full depression takes the shot.On my camera at least,I need to hold the 1st position for a second or so,to give it time to focus properly.This may not be necessary with the more expensive cameras though.
I also switch off flash for all close up shots.If they come out too dark,you can always lighten the photo with your camera software.
I have taken shots from as little as 3" away with this setup,and they look ok.Be aware though,that your depth of field becomes an issue with any close up photography.
Hans.

 

[ksouers]

Sorveltaja,
I'm not familiar with your camera, but I can tell you a bit about mine. You may find some features are similar.

I have a Kodak point-and-shoot, it is just a basic camera that is great for traveling or picnics or holidays and just plain keeping handy. It has a knob on top for several settings that I really have no idea how each differs from the other. Though there are two that I use regularly. One is just a standard all-around picture, the other is for close-ups. I use the close up setting in the shop.

Since the camera is fully automatic it also has auto focus. To use it in close up mode I have to press the shutter button "about half way" and hold to let the camera focus, then I can press it the rest of the way to take the picture. In close up mode only the LCD is used to frame the picture. When I press the button for focus a couple brackets show up around the point where the camera has chosen to focus. If that's not what I want to focus on I release the button and try it again, perhaps moving the camera slightly. I usually use a tripod and take several pictures, with and without flash, and from different angles. Out of 15-20 pictures I may get one or two that I like.

Perhaps yours works in much the same way. Try it and see what happens.

 

[gbritnell]

Sorveltaja, I also have a Canon S2IS. It is my 3rd digital and it does everything I need to do when photographing. As was already stated, for closeups you definitely need a tripod. I have a little table with a light blue covering to set my pieces on. For lighting I use 3 reflector type work lights with 23 watt daylight flourescent bulbs. They are the equivalent of 75 watt bulbs. I set my camera on manual and adjust my white balance to the flourescent setting. I also bracket 3 shots at different light settings. You can see some of my closeup shots if you go to the following link. http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2181.0
gbritnell

 

[shred]

I had one of the Canons. What I found was even in Macro mode, the focus distance is longer than I expected. But, the upside is there are plenty of pixels to throw away-- So, I shoot the part from zoomed out (there's more in focus when zoomed-out) from a foot and a half or two feet away and then crop the image down to size in the computer later on.

You also want lots of light on the scene. The more light, the more is in focus as well.

 

[Dhow Nunda wallah]

An old tip, from an even older photographer.

Depth of field when close up means that very little of your subject will be in focus, especially with a cheap camera.
Try, as above, setting up a firm support for the camera; then shoot through a small hole in black card.
Any kind of card or shim metal will do, just cover with black marker pen or paint to avoid stray reflections.

Not quite a pinhole, but start small; say 2 or 3 mm. This aperture should be right hard up against the front of your lens ring. If your camera doesn't like the setup, gradually increase the size of the hole.

This will require plenty of light, but that shouldn't be a problem. You don't need flash, just use plenty of artificial lights.
Soften if necessary, with cloth, or bounce lights off a white wall/ceiling/reflector.

Hope this helps.
Rgds, Lin

 

[ChooChooMike]

P.M. Research has acquired the assests of Red Wing Motor company.

I don't know much about Red Wing - looks like they have a line of IC engines and related accessories.

http://www.pmresearchinc.com/redwingmotor/

Seems to be a good fit with PM Research's steam/Stirliing models.

 

[Tin Falcon]

I love the team work here folks copying material and sending around(after clearing it with the copyright holder) .

I have downloaded these myself and have been watching them. although good for many of the basics I see a couple minor things I do not like. The main one I notice is, in my book a safety violation. On one hand the instructor cautions the viewer about the dangers of the turned chips and freshly machined edges. He then handles repeatedly said chips and freshly machined corners/edges I was cringing as I watched and waited for the blood to start dripping. This is a classic case of do what I say not what I show you.
The other things are minor omissions and details I would do differently in my own shop.
Tin

 

[rake60]

The new garage door was installed today.
It sure cleaned up the looks of it!

Now the old door was a heavy wooden contraption that took some effort to raise and
a good bit of manual breaking power to close.
Not so much with this one! :
First time I opened it using the force I'm used to showed an issue.

I might need to move that light! :big:

Rick

 

[wareagle]

From the pictures, I would say you did a great job on it!

Planetary gearing is a cool thing! I find planets fasinating to watch for some odd reason.