Printed circuit boards

[canadianhorsepower]

I tried to make a PCB for my power feed for a mill using arduino. The software is easy enough, but the parts library is the big issue. I was using some push button switches I had on hand, purchased from a surplus place so I had no idea of part numbers. I kept browsing through the parts libraries and never could find a button I was sure would fit my parts. A similar problem for any other components. If you are going to make a board, and order all new components from a place that has a library then it really is simple.

Hi Ron
you did make it hard for yourself.
never mind the part number, just go generic. Ex PB 2 button
and the measure scale is in the picture, is it match your's use it.
I've been building my own PCB for years and love it, so does my students.
You can even get an etch resistant marker and simply draw it by hand and then print your board. et voila.
of course the more complicated circuits need more attention
good luck

Luc

 

[TorontoBuilder]

Ron, I found the exact same thing.

I had parts I wanted to use but that were not in the parts library anywhere.
The advantage of eagle is that you can create and add parts to a library. Thats how I got most of my parts entered. If you can measure model parts you can measure electronic parts... or get info from datasheets.

Of course, somehow I managed to allow an error to creep into one of my parts and I never did a final review before sending to fab.

So for those who want to try it I'll add one caution... before finalizing a part double check dimensions or get this :fan:

 

[kf2qd]

I tried to make a PCB for my power feed for a mill using arduino. The software is easy enough, but the parts library is the big issue. I was using some push button switches I had on hand, purchased from a surplus place so I had no idea of part numbers. I kept browsing through the parts libraries and never could find a button I was sure would fit my parts. A similar problem for any other components. If you are going to make a board, and order all new components from a place that has a library then it really is simple.

It is easy to create your own libraries of parts. I have often done it because I did not care for the way whoever created it. That, and using older devices that were not available..

I have also made boards from copper clad with .025 holes on .1" spacing. Drew my pattern with a black fine point sharpy.

 

[canadianhorsepower]

So for those who want to try it I'll add one caution... before finalizing a part double check dimensions or get this :fan:

this also goes BEFORE machining, you mentione yourself you didn't input th proper value for one of your parts:fan:
this is a hobby,can we choose what we prefer:hDe:
show us your circuit so we can comment

 

[TorontoBuilder]

this also goes BEFORE machining, you mentione yourself you didn't input th proper value for one of your parts:fan:
this is a hobby,can we choose what we prefer:hDe:
show us your circuit so we can comment

The fault is not in the circuit schematic, but rather the part I added to the libary to represent the a4988 driver board. Pololu's board is 0.6" x 0.8" but I accidentally made my part 0.7" x 0.8", which resulted in my header location being off by 0.1"

See pic.

I can stll use the boards but I'll have to locate the driver board off the main board which wont be as clean, elegant and most importantly it wont be as compact

 

[rodw]

John, you can't make up an adapter from a bit of perf board? Solder stepper driver to it and then add another row of pins to connect to your board?

 

[canadianhorsepower]

The fault is not in the circuit schematic, but rather the part I added to the libary to represent the a4988 driver board. Pololu's board is 0.6" x 0.8" but I accidentally made my part 0.7" x 0.8", which resulted in my header location being off by 0.1"

See pic.

I can stll use the boards but I'll have to locate the driver board off the main board which wont be as clean, elegant and most importantly it wont be as compact

If you solder 90degree heather pin in your board this will allow you to pigy back mount your driver on top of it
cheers
Luc

 

[cwebs]

Actually that is pretty much the the conclusion I have come to. I would only be making a few PCB and they would be personal use, not for sale. I looked at the free software etc and the learning curve is too steep for my limited use. Even us retired folks prioritize sometimes.

Gordon, I am 67 years old and it took me about three days of playing with, reading, and watching vids to get over the hump. Then I was making my PCBs. The Library had SOOOOO many parts that it was the slow down. Once you get into it you can disable the Libraries you don't need. Every thing is free and your time is all you will have invested.

I would make my board and gcode then go to the CNC and put in a spring loaded pencil and run the gcode on a peace of paper. When I was happy then it was chips away. Now I will say I ain't no expert, but my boards work for me. Carl

 

[TorontoBuilder]

John, you can't make up an adapter from a bit of perf board? Solder stepper driver to it and then add another row of pins to connect to your board?

BINGO!

good solution and i have proto board on hand.
thx Rod

 

[TorontoBuilder]

If you solder 90degree heather pin in your board this will allow you to pigy back mount your driver on top of it
cheers
Luc

I have some 90 degree header pins... perhaps I can put another 90 bend in the longer pins and come close to a 0.1" offset. I'll try this on another of my 3 boards.

Thanks Luc

Good morning for me, two free solutions w/o breaking a sweat thinking for myself

 

[rodw]

I have some 90 degree header pins... perhaps I can put another 90 bend in the longer pins and come close to a 0.1" offset. I'll try this on another of my 3 boards.

Thanks Luc

Good morning for me, two free solutions w/o breaking a sweat thinking for myself

Just goes to show that group input leads to better solutions and decisons.