PMR BLR2 build pics and observations

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Nickademusss

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I thought I would share my build of the PM Research BLR 2 kit.

First thing I would like to mention is that the kit was very complete, having all the materials needed to build the tools and boiler.

The castings are top notch, very clean and easy to work with.

The plans were clear and were accompanied by easy instructions.
Its the first boiler I have built and besides all the noise putting in the rivets it was a fun build.

I used an old brass candle stick base for the funnel at the top of the stack, a PMR whistle, valve, force feed pump, and gauge. All worked well.

I ran this boiler up to 115psi (max for my airbrush compressor) for the static test (yes the boiler was filled with water per the instructions...)

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It is shipped in a very small box all the parts are inside the boiler tube.

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rivet tools after tempering
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I used a spare 3/4" square stock piece for the rivet anvil
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Steam dome soldered and all the holes drilled in the boiler tube, the steam dome top fit very well, and after it was riveted the edge was hammered down around the center piece and soldered.

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Steam dome mounted on boiler, and then I began the compressing the boiler tubes, I did not make the tool from the kit stock, I used 5/8" all thread and some large joiner nuts tapered to do the job.

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Everything soldered

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test fitting the castings....

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115psi static pressure test

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finished up and painted with grill paint, I test fired the boiler on esbit, I wish I hadnt, it made a mess inside and a skim of residue over the boiler bottom.

I put a propane burner under it and love running it now!

I also added an extra water connection to the bottom of the boiler for the feed water pump connection.

The water tank on the side is a pint size paint tin, cleaned and painted with a copper tube soldered to it.

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The finished boiler will run my beam engine very well, and the whistle is ear piercingly loud.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuJGj0-QYkU&list=UUXdt1NJ4cjJHLzCMzX0C2GA&index=1&feature=plcp[/ame]

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This is the type of burner I used, only slightly longer, a simple hollow block with holes drilled every 5/16" and a gas jet at one end...

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I had so much fun building this boiler I think I would like to build the vertical boiler BLR1.
 
Nickademusss said:
I ran this boiler up to 115psi (max for my air compressor) for the static test

I'm afraid that's a no no. if it had failed you could have been in trouble. Static test has to be hydrualic (filled with water)
Low pressure 10-20 psi is probably OK for under water leak testing (cycle tube style) but 115psi of air is asking for trouble.

No doubt you'll get a few more on this.

That said its a nice boiler. You need to let us know about the burner

Pete
 
Hello.
Very nice boiler,well done.
I'm thinking about doing it myself.Was it very demanding to get the riveting right?
What about swaging the tubes ?Seems to be also difficult for beginner like me.
One last question.Was the boiler actually tested by an air compressor?I hope not.
Cheers,Ralph
 
doubletop said:
I'm afraid that's a no no. if it had failed you could have been in trouble. Static test has to be hydrualic (filled with water)
Low pressure 10-20 psi is probably OK for under water leak testing (cycle tube style) but 115psi of air is asking for trouble.

No doubt you'll get a few more on this.

That said its a nice boiler. You need to let us know about the burner

Pete

It was full of water and pumped up to 115, it runs at 60psi so twice the normal pressure was what I was trying to get to. The instructions stated to fill with water and pump it up slowly, the compressor I used is very small 1 gallon tank, and as soon as it hit max pressure I turned the regulator all the way down so the larger tank wasn't connected to the boiler. I held it at this pressure for a few minutes, then released.

Whats wrong with this procedure? The boiler couldn't of had more than a few teaspoons of air in it, the rest was water and being denser than air I would think a more stressful test on the boiler.
 
Xlmyford said:
Hello.
Very nice boiler,well done.
I'm thinking about doing it myself.Was it very demanding to get the riveting right?
What about swaging the tubes ?Seems to be also difficult for beginner like me.
One last question.Was the boiler actually tested by an air compressor?I hope not.
Cheers,Ralph

The rivets were not bad as long as you dont mind the pounding and repetition, if you make your tools right its actually easy. All the parts fit very well, and the procedure of setting the rivet with one tool, then mushrooming it with another worked well.
The boiler tubes took about an hour to do, once I got the hang of it, you will need the largest ratchets you have to get good leverage on it. You will also use a small hammer to finish pounding the tubes in place. I also used a small block of wood on the opposite side wile hammering. Some have reported that they got really short boiler tubes and to check the length before mounting the front and back of the boiler, I did this and found that the tubes I received were the right size.

And yeah I used the air compressor, but forgot to mention that the boiler was full of water.... :-\
 
Actually, pressure is pressure. 115 psi is 115psi

HOWEVER

Air is not water!


The reason we use water to hydrostatically test a boiler is for all intents and purposes, it is non compressable, while air is.

Now how is that important?

Look at compressed air as a jar of compressed springs.....if you pop the lid, you get hit in the face with all these springs that start flying out right?

Same thing with a boiler....if you have an issue with a boiler under test, the last thing you want is a BANG.

With water, because it can not be compressed, stores no internal energy, and if something breaks, it just leaks water....no bang!

That's why using air is a no no. Use water and JUST water next time. Air over water is just the same as using air.


Dave
 
Doh! Im glad its copper then, it would of split not exploded.

I saw a large boiler around 50 gallons in size online a few months ago, all steel construction, and they ran its presure up with a large compressor. Not sure if it had water in it at all :eek:
 
Nickademusss,
Nice boiler. Been thinking about one of these. What type of solder does PM recommend using on their boilers?

Jeff
 
it came with solder, silver bearing solder, as long as you keep water in the boiler it will not leak, its rivets will see that it wont suddenly lose pressure if you over heat it....
 
Nickademus

You did show us the burner, I don't know why missed it.

I assume its commercial but I can't find it on the PMR site. If you made it what is the jet size and air hole size? better still the drawings?

Pete
 
doubletop said:
Nickademus

You did show us the burner, I don't know why missed it.

I assume its commercial but I can't find it on the PMR site. If you made it what is the jet size and air hole size? better still the drawings?

Pete

I actually found it prebuilt on ebay, I am afraid I am not sure of jet size, next time I have it apart I will look and see if its marked :)
 
It looks usefull Do you have the link to the sale or seller?

Pete
 
Sweet Nickademus.
It just looks so right with steam coming out the exhaust.
Alan
 
miner49r said:
Sweet Nickademus.
It just looks so right with steam coming out the exhaust.
Alan

Thanks! It even runs better on steam, it seems that I can run it slower than when its on air...
 
Nickademusss said:
Thanks! It even runs better on steam, it seems that I can run it slower than when its on air...

That's steam for you. All these air only engines just don't know what they are missing. IMHO a boiler is a must, even if you only have one to try each of your engines out on once in their life.

Pete
 
Nice job! I hope to build this one also.

I built the vertical PM boiler a few years ago. The solder that comes with the kit is a winner. The flux in the kit is even better! I am still using that flux on all kinds of other projects. I have fired my boiler with butane and once raised steam using only wood! The riveting is the only finicky part.
 
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