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Peewee V4

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michael-au

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Started on the base today, not ready for it but wanted to do something else other than turning parts

Cut the corian and then the wood, type of wood is pine picture railing

View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1451373602.708500.jpg

Next was to lie it together covered the corian and the board it's setup on with glad rap so the glue won't stick to everything

Nex put glue on the pieces and assemble them, staple the top edge, this is until the glue dries, wrap with wire ties and pull tight, this pulls it into shape and holds it until the glue is dry also
It is sitting upside down at the moment, the next step will to be glue some square pieces around the inside so the corian can be screwed to it

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Swifty

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Love the anodising, maybe one day you can give an instruction post on how you do it.

Paul.
 
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michael-au

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Not much time to work on the peewee over the last couple of months, new castings arrived, looking forward to getting back into it
But first a holiday in Las Vegas, fly out this weekend
 

Davewild

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Have a Blast, its on my bucket list of places to visit. Be good to have you building again, cant wait to see your progress.

Enjoy your holiday.

Dave
 

michael-au

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Have a Blast, its on my bucket list of places to visit. Be good to have you building again, cant wait to see your progress.

Enjoy your holiday.

Dave

Thank you Dave
Back home from the US , went to Las Vegas, Buffalo, Niagara Falls and New York
Had a great trip

Now getting slowly back into the peewee

Michael
 

michael-au

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Spent some time in the shed today, machined some of the new castings that arrived for the peewee

These casting are good no holes, looks like the problems have been resolved, would be a great relief for Dirk

I machined the mating surfaces for the block and the sump

Drills holes to bolt the sump to the block

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Drilled and mounted the Center bearing support

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Still need to machine the pockets out
 

Cogsy

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Good to see the castings are useable. I've been trying to find the time to test them so I could let Dirk know their quality.

I'll be following along again, hoping I get back to mine sometime in the near future.
 

michael-au

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Things are a bit slow on the V4 at the moment

Oil pan holes have been drilled and tapped

Trying to work out the best way on hold the block so I can machine the front and the back, keeping everything square

Started to make a fixture, hopefully will be able to use it on the next project as well

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Thinking of bolting an angle plate to the mill and then bolting the fixture to the plates, as well as clamping fixture to the mill table at the same time
 
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Cogsy

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Dang, I had a plan and as I was typing it out I realised it wouldn't work... I'll be watching your method with renewed interest. Good luck!
 

stevehuckss396

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Your on the right track, thats how I did mine. Just make sure you remove the oil pan and indicate the bottom of the block and shim the block as needed to make sure the holes are drilled and bored in proper alignment.


I remember what I did now. I clamped the block down on the machined surface where the pan bolts on and clamped it front and back in the center. A very light skim cut was made on the peaks of the head surface where your mini V blocks are until there is just a "touch" from front to back. Without moving the quill or knee do the other side. Now when you bolt the block to the angle plate the block should clamp into perfect alignment. With the lightest cut possible, the cut will disappear when the head surface is machined. To get the block to stand straight up, When the oil pan was machined I machined out the pocket in the pan then the outside of the pan was skim cut just enough to smooth the sides of the rails where the mounts bolt on. That surface was used to indicate up and down to align perfectly.

When the block was machined, I cut the pockets for the crankshaft and then cut across the front and back of the block about 1/4 inch deep leaving .005 to finish. This was done so when the block is setup and cut I knew where to stop. The oil pan also stuck up higher than the block so the oil pan surface was found to get the bore centered on the split and the 2 oil pan rails are used to find center of the block.


I don't have any photos to post so I hope this helps a little. If this is unclear I can do some cad drawings to explain what I did.
 
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Cogsy

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Looks good, should work perfectly. I remembered more about my plan and I think it will work after all, I just confused myself yesterday :confused:. So when I machine the bottom of the block for the sump I'll have it squared to the table on the mill (as I assume you did) then I'll bolt the sump on without moving anything. Then I'll use a suitable endmill to square one end of the block/sump combination which I can use when I stand the block up and clamp it to an angle plate. Should be straightforward to machine each end to final dimensions then. Hopefully that'll work...
 

michael-au

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Your on the right track, thats how I did mine. Just make sure you remove the oil pan and indicate the bottom of the block and shim the block as needed to make sure the holes are drilled and bored in proper alignment.


I remember what I did now. I clamped the block down on the machined surface where the pan bolts on and clamped it front and back in the center. A very light skim cut was made on the peaks of the head surface where your mini V blocks are until there is just a "touch" from front to back. Without moving the quill or knee do the other side. Now when you bolt the block to the angle plate the block should clamp into perfect alignment. With the lightest cut possible, the cut will disappear when the head surface is machined. To get the block to stand straight up, When the oil pan was machined I machined out the pocket in the pan then the outside of the pan was skim cut just enough to smooth the sides of the rails where the mounts bolt on. That surface was used to indicate up and down to align perfectly.

When the block was machined, I cut the pockets for the crankshaft and then cut across the front and back of the block about 1/4 inch deep leaving .005 to finish. This was done so when the block is setup and cut I knew where to stop. The oil pan also stuck up higher than the block so the oil pan surface was found to get the bore centered on the split and the 2 oil pan rails are used to find center of the block.


I don't have any photos to post so I hope this helps a little. If this is unclear I can do some cad drawings to explain what I did.
Thank you for the tips Steve, very much apreceated
Taking a small cut from the peaks of the head surface is a good idea

Michael
 

michael-au

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Looks good, should work perfectly. I remembered more about my plan and I think it will work after all, I just confused myself yesterday :confused:. So when I machine the bottom of the block for the sump I'll have it squared to the table on the mill (as I assume you did) then I'll bolt the sump on without moving anything. Then I'll use a suitable endmill to square one end of the block/sump combination which I can use when I stand the block up and clamp it to an angle plate. Should be straightforward to machine each end to final dimensions then. Hopefully that'll work...
It sounds like a good plan Cogsy
 

michael-au

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Progress is slow at the moment, don't like this cold weather much
This is where I'm up to,

View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1468155809.297911.jpg

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I will bolt and clamp the whole thing down onto the mill, Mark a Centre line on the block with the sump off
Then make sure it is lined up and square in all directions, then bolt the sump back on, then mill the ends flat and to dimensions

Might not get much more done this week, heading off to Thailand next week for 2 weeks get out of the cold
My wife has breast cancer it has spread to other parts off her body, so I think some warm weather will be better for her as well
This is some of the reason for the slow down on the peewee, my head is not all ways clear, emotional roller coaster
 
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