Panther Pup Build Started

[jgedde]

After finishing the Solidworks model (http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=25266), I generated working drawings for the distributor and started cutting. An odd part to start with? Well yes. But, I made the distributor parts out of G10 and G11 fiberglass. Messy stuff to work with and I wanted to get it over with. It sticks to everything with oil on it, and sucks up oil like a sponge. So, my lathe and mill will need a through cleaning and reoiling afterwards.

In any event, I started the distributor cover, wire guides and rotor housing along with a decorative brass disc. I then colored the G10 parts black by boiling them in black RIT fabric dye with a 1/2 cup of vinegar mixed into the water. After that, an application of shellac applied French poilsh style to deepen the color and to prevent black fingers from handling.

The brass disc and the wire guides were CA glued into the cover and the wire outlets drilled through.

I then started on the distrbutor contact plate. 5 brass terminals pressed into a uncolored G11 contact plate. The terminals were then faced off flush with the rotor side. After pressing in the terminals, wires were soldered onto the terminals. No problems with the soldering heat affecting the G11 disc or the press fits as expected (G11 is a high temp material)

Then, everything was assembled. Now onto the rotor...

Fellow Panther Pup builders will see from the pics that I've changed the distributor design to eliminate the spring and thumbscrew Bill Reichert used in his design in favor of a cover retained with counterbored screws. This cleans up the appearance, allows the coil wire to exit out the bottom, and allowed the brass disc.

Cheers!
John

 

[Herbiev]

Looking great John. Keep the pics coming.

 

[jgedde]

Yesterday I finished the distributor rotor. See pics below... Today I made a cylinder, sort of... Next post I'll show a major goof on an otherwise perfect cylinder...

John

 

[jgedde]

As promised, here is the cylinder and the goof... The ends of the cylinder are supposed to be square in shape. I figured I'd do all the lathe work, the square the ends in the mill...

As you can see, I goofed and didn't leave enough material to make the ends square! The print scale is 1:1.

Looks like the 2" stock I have won't work out... Corner to corner is 2.121"

(The drawing underneath is my modified cylinder design that accepts a cast iron sleeve and has more (and larger fins). The drawing came from the Solidworks model and is not Mr. Reichert's design. Mr. Reichert's plans are copyrighted.)

John

 

[stevehuckss396]

Try squaring it up and see if the holes that mount the cylinder are still "usable". Maybe you might just need a slight redesign?

 

[jgedde]

Alas no. Not even close. The holes don't even touch the OD. If I bring the holes inboard in the head, the holes break through into the intake and exhaust passages.

I started making a new one. I did the square portions first and did the lathe work after. All I have to do is cut the fins and I'm all set.

I did entertain a cylinder head redesign to make round heads instead. I started playing around with the idea, but I'd have to bring the valves closer together to make intake and exhaust passages not have the head mounting scrcews break through to their bores.

I liked the idea of round heads since I think they look better - more aircraft-like. Oh well, next engine build...

The fins will be harder to cut on the proper piece since my cutting tool will need more overhang to reach the ID....

John

 

[jgedde]

Success! After an adventure with an import parting blade holder I got it made! 3 more to go...

 

[stevehuckss396]

Nice!!!!!!

 

[jgedde]

Tonight I made a cast iron (G2 Durabar) cylinder sleeve for the cylinder fabricated yesterday. The sleeve was made 0.003 in. oversize. To install the liner, the aluminum cylinder was heated with a propane torch and the sleeve dropped right in. When cool, it locked in place. The sleeve is now in intimate contact with the aluminum for good heat transfer. Better contact than a press fit.

It's now ready for final honing to an ID of 1.000". The ID is sitting at .9986 right now. We have a Sunnen hone at work begging for work...

3 more cylinders and sleeves to go...

John

 

[jgedde]

Just wondering if anyone is following this thread apart from SteveHuckSS396.... I'm guessing y'all are just quiet so as to not clutter up the build posts...

John

 

[Cogsy]

I'm following along. Great progress so far, looking forward to the rest.

 

[driller1432]

Looking good! I was wondering if any one else used sunnen hone for cylinders like I do .
View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453954450.273998.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453954555.162940.jpg
Steve

 

[michael-au]

There are always people watching...nice work so far....will be watch the build

 

[grapegro]

Hello John,
I have the book on the panther pup engine build, possibly my next project. Am more than interested in your build, especially the idea of sleeves.
Good luck, Norm

 

[jgedde]

Hello John,
I have the book on the panther pup engine build, possibly my next project. Am more than interested in your build, especially the idea of sleeves.
Good luck, Norm

Norm,
If you're interested in what was revised and changed, I can share my drawings with you showing the changes after each part is built and I can validate the design...

John

 

[jgedde]

Thanks everyone! I'll keep up the posts.

I ordered aluminum castings for the crankcase from LMS and they came day before yesterday. The machining of those should be an adventure...

John

 

[jgedde]

More progress today and yesterday night. Made the distributor mounting plate and the timer body. Arcs were machined using my mill DRO's arc function which I hadn't used before. The radius over the top of the mounting plate and the radius around the clamp were both made like this. I was too lazy to set up the rotary table and 'klooge' a way to clamp the workpieces. If you look close you can see evidence of repeated plunge cuts around the clamp radius.

Came out well! I will use that feature a lot more often now!

The plate on the right has had a coating of clear/amber shellac applied French polish style to prevent patina. I like the golden hue!

 

[stevehuckss396]

From the timer I assume you are going to use the point system originally designed?

 

[dnalot]

Hi

Just wondering if anyone is following this thread apart from SteveHuckSS396.... I'm guessing y'all are just quiet so as to not clutter up the build posts...

I'm following along. I do a lot of posts that have no responses. If the post gets hits over time I figure some are interested and continue on.

Mark T

 

[10K Pete]

I don't make much noise when I'm learning. Dad always said it's hard to
hear with yer jaw hangin' open. That CNC thing is really cool.

Pete