NYLON MILLING MACHINE GEARS

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Thanks Brian for the drawing. I will set about making an Aluminum gear set. The OD of each gear is calculated as follows 31 teeth plus2 by the module 1.5 give OD for the smaller gear 49.5mm and the larger gear 87mm. I will make smaller gear with the hub spigoted into the larger gear and locktited then 3 dowels at the joint of the gear and spigot Cheers John
 
just finished a 80 tooth mod 1 in al. IMG_20220110_161717.jpgIMG_20220110_161717.jpg
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Hi Mr. Brian,
I like the Z axis handwheel for your mill with chain and sprocket drive.
Did it came as factory fitted with the mill or you made it?

I have a similar Sieg SX 2.7 mill with Z axis handwheel at top.

regards
Nikhil
 
Miami could also be an option, I have often seen McMaster referenced but never Misumi. Their part selection can be a little daunting as they offer so many options but their products are usually good quality and prices reasonable.
 
Nikhill I made that. I have a torn rotator cuff in my right shoulder that can't be fixed, so it hurts me to reach up to turn that top handwheel. So---I moved the handwheel down to a comfortable height to reach and then ran a bicycle chain up to the top.---Brian
 
If I'm understanding the problem correctly, the real issue is that the mill wants to slip out of "back gear" while under heavy pressure. I would think that this is likely to tear up any gear, nylon or metal.

What is "supposed" to keep it in the low gear setting? Is there a detent of some sort? If not ... Brian's solution may be needed even with aluminum replacement gears.
 
Nikhill I made that. I have a torn rotator cuff in my right shoulder that can't be fixed, so it hurts me to reach up to turn that top handwheel. So---I moved the handwheel down to a comfortable height to reach and then ran a bicycle chain up to the top.---Brian
When you say "rotator cuff", is it bone or flesh? I had ripped ligaments which were healed by use of accupuncture. You might consult a puncturist if hyou can find one.
 
Richard--Mostly caused by being old and doing a lot of work over 75 years. I have used acupuncture for nerve related issues in my left leg and arm and it was very successful when nothing else would work.--Brian
 
I anyone wants a set of gears for this or any other application, I can hob them for you and post worldwide.
Peter
 
When you say "rotator cuff", is it bone or flesh? I had ripped ligaments which were healed by use of accupuncture. You might consult a puncturist if hyou can find one.
The rotator cuff is the set of ligaments which holds the shoulder joint together.
I damaged one of mine by picking up my 260kg motorcycle in an angry hurry when I had dropped it in the car park at work.
It took about 9 months and some physiotherapy to sort it out.
 
The rotator cuff is the set of ligaments which holds the shoulder joint together.
I damaged one of mine by picking up my 260kg motorcycle in an angry hurry when I had dropped it in the car park at work.
It took about 9 months and some physiotherapy to sort it out.
I don't know how I did mine but both shoulders hurt so much, hurt as much as a kidney stone. Could not raise my arms at all. Went to the butchers--oops, I mean doctor's, and found out that it would cost 9000$ in 2001 dollars to fix it and it may make it worse. All I heard was " make it worse". so I lookt in Moses Lake for a pucturist. Found one, a Korean. He punct a single needle in my ankle bone two days in a row. Two weeks later, it was completely healed. And look at me today: I can raise my hands above my head. As the say in Cambodia: Lud dai twai preh, (raise hand praise god).
 
The three R8 shanks came yesterday. The other two annular cutters are supposed to come later this week. they surely look "spiffy".
cA5VJU.jpg
 
I'm curious why you opted for what looks to be an end mill holder vs the annular cutter holder. I'm actually not sure why the Weldon has 2 retention screws for 90-deg faces. But it has the provisions for the spring/pin assembly up in the attic which the EM holders don't. BTW I also have an MT3 version for use in lathe tailstock.
 

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Quite a few of the cutters have two flats hence the two screws on the holders specifically for them

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My bad Jason.--I made a mistake, and only realized it about an hour ago when I tried to put one of the annular cutters into the collets I had ordered. YIPES!!! it didn't work. I just reboxed the three collets I ordered and am sending them back to amazon. I ordered one of the correct collets that work with these cutters. Should come out money ahead because three of the collets I ordered cost $93. I've decided I can live with one collet and change the annular cutters as I need them, and one of the right kind of collet costs $75---Brian
 
So, after a bit of confusion (on my part), the wrong R8 collets have been returned and the correct R8 collet to hold these 3/4" Weldon shank annular cutters has been received, mounted in my mill, and a hole cut thru 1" aluminum plate. The "core" that is cut from the plate is setting on top of the plate. The hole was cut in "Low range" at 300 rpm. with lots of squirt on cutting oil. I did get the "birds-nest" of aluminum swarf which has been cleared away to take this picture. They make a beautiful smooth cut, and the milling machine doesn't sound like it is working very hard to make the hole. I am very satisfied. The annular cutters cost about $30 each. I may buy a couple more different sizes---don't know yet.
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