New 2.5 cc Model Diesel design and build.

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Hi Ed,
I have often thought about making one of these little diesel engines.
My biggest concern is where to find the fuel for them.
I notice you are in Sydney, is there a supplier in Sydney that has suitable fuel?
 
There is a source here in Sydney - best send me an email at address 3rd last post previous page this thread ...
 
Hi guys,

An update on the casting.

The initial one took quite a while to have done as the heat treatment only gets done once every three weeks or so - then when l got it, it wasn't very smooth l think because some of the casting sand was still attached to the pattern, so when the casting was done it was quite rough.

I picked it up the day the guy that l deal with wasn't there and so took it back a little while later and he took it and had the foundry guys have another go. This time it is better but not perfect. I got the impression that the foundry guys see it as a nuisance something so small and fiddly compared to what they normally do, maybe l am wrong.

The guy l deal with said that if l make a pattern plate for them to use with 2 engines on each half of the plates then he can stay at the first agreed price which was $60 to you guys. I don't have the resources to do this and the cost of having it done is prohibitive - so will stick with the pattern I have. So to continue with the pattern as is then the price to me will be $80 and l would have to charge it out at $100 plus post to you.

So have a think about it, it is quite a cost increase. All the previous correspondence from you will be set aside for the time being, and when I am happy that the casting works then I will recall for expressions of interest then, so please be patient. I hope to start the build this week and knowing how these things go then it will probably take 2 - 3 weeks to get it done. It will be diesel engine no.20

Here are the photos of the casting as received. IMG_8780.JPGIMG_8781.JPGIMG_8782.JPGIMG_8783.JPGIMG_8784.JPGIMG_8785.JPGIMG_8787.JPGIMG_8786.JPG
IMG_8785.JPG
IMG_8780.JPG
 
Guys,

Thanks for staying with me on this - will now start a new thread for the Holly Buddy Mk2 build to help any future builders with my experience making it. cheers ... Ed
 
The guy l deal with said that if l make a pattern plate for them to use with 2 engines on each half of the plates then he can stay at the first agreed price which was $60 to you guys. I don't have the resources to do this and the cost of having it done is prohibitive - so will stick with the pattern I have. So to continue with the pattern as is then the price to me will be $80 and l would have to charge it out at $100 plus post to you.

That's frustrating to hear you say, because my brother makes matched plates and makes it look easy. Of course, he's been doing it for a long time, and "makes it look easy" is a heavily loaded term.

Given the flask sizes my brother is building for (about 2' by 1 1/2'), you could get at least a dozen castings at a go -- I'm not sure what size flask your foundry is working with, though.
 
Hallo Ed,
Sorry Ed that i did n`t write to you about the finish of my Holly Buddy model engines.As already mentioned earlier in this article about the making of i told you about the new engine parts i made,a liner and a piston to solve my starting and good running problems.I succeed indeed in making the right quality of parts the engine does have the real strong compression which normaly has been needed to get a good running engine.I am real proud on the results short runs are Ok ,but it is very difficult in the neighbourhood were i live to run the engine with higher RPM and for a long time.My country is very small so possibilities to run an engine is very difficult.I will have to find a solution maybe in a shed or something like that.The dieselfuel is possible to make now in a bigger quantity because i do have some more of the ingredients to do so.I will stay in contact with you as allways and soon as the possibilities are changing i will let you know about this.Unhappily i felwt down the stairs and the fall has giving me much problems with much pain,but easily i will perform some more again i hope.

Many greetings from Gerard-Didam-Holland(The Netherlands-Europe).
 

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Hi Gerard, sure sorry to hear about your fall - we don't bounce as well as we did when we were younger .. Great news about the Buddy ... perseverance pays off, and the fit is not easy to achieve. Well done Gerard .. and thanks for letting those interested in this thread know ... cheers ...
 
Gerard,
Mount your engine on a small table and take in to an industrial area on Saturday. Most companies are closed then so you can make as much noise as you want. I test run my engines on a Workmate in a nearby industrial estate...no problem at all.

Groeten uit Rotterdam,
Jos
 
Here is my next edition of the HB - using screw thread everywhere to hold it together and to allow for the muff to be a nice fit on the top of the cylinder. Piston, rod, prop driver and washer to go. Been a long project - started about 10 weeks ago - things keep getting in the way. Plan is to try anodizing the muff and prop driver - never tried that before - plenty of info on the web thankfully.

Congratulations to all those who have built HB's maybe a refresh of a photo or two of your engine here would be good

Ed
 

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Started the new HB (Mk3) yesterday - fired and ran a few seconds in my hand ... today drilled the mounting holes and put in the test rig and ran very nicely, easy to start - in fact it started 4 times on case fumes after the 3rd 1 minute run. Haven't leaned it out yet or wound the compression to optimum - baby steps. One thing I am pleasantly surprised with is how well the compression has sealed with just a few minutes running. In fact after that 3 second burst in my hand it felt so much nicer.

A few things to do now - want to try anodizing the muff - will Locktite the nose which wants to unscrew itself when running - make a proper tommy bar and a few other little things to finish it.

I found some scrap 7075 T651 aluminium and have used that for the conrod - was wonderful to machine and it's specs are very suitable - so having used that found a source here in Sydney and bought 2 metres of it. Comes with a certificate saying what properties it has - apparently it is made in USA or South Africa.

The aim for this engine was to cloth it a bit less chunky than the original HB - and I think that was achieved. If the anodizing works will make it even a bit better.
 

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