My Launch engine

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Wagon173

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2012
Messages
129
Reaction score
32
So I got the launch engine from LMS for my second build. So far it has turned out pretty simple, minus still not having all of the right machine tools yet. I think I'm going to continue the series of engines from LMS until I'm done with them and that should give me a strong base of experience to move on to bigger and better things. It's nice to have the guess work taken out of it with a construction manual with the build plans.

Here's the kit.
IMGP0342_zpsc5f207d6.jpg


And here's the work so far...
IMGP0344_zpscc6e02a9.jpg

IMGP0343_zps03e3fdc3.jpg

IMGP0345_zpsb3535be2.jpg

IMGP0346_zps87badd95.jpg

IMGP0347_zpsae1b6ac2.jpg

IMGP0348_zps7287e14a.jpg

IMGP0349_zps9777dad5.jpg

IMGP0350_zpsc62e16d0.jpg

IMGP0351_zps18f854ca.jpg

IMGP0352_zps01671ce1.jpg


Hopefully I'll have some more to put on here pretty soon.
 
Looking forward to this one. Keep us posted.
 
Got off work early and got to spend some time in the shop :) I got all the valve ports done. I finished most of the rotary valve. I did have a bright idea since I don't have a rotary table that I might be able to use the milling attachment to mount my dremel with a saw blade in it and chuck the valve in my lathe and using a protractor to get a good idea of the rotation. Has anybody ever done this before? Are these engines cranky if you're a degree or two off? Anyway, ironically enough, the day after replying to one of tin's threads about harbor freight tools on how there were some good ones there but that their taps and die sets were crap, I used (you guessed it) a harbor freight die on the pillar since i didn't have another 6-36 (I believe) one and it basically just chewed up the end. I didn't want to pay or wait for shipping so I went to the hardware store and got ahold of some cheap brass stock they had laying around as well as a decent die. Here are some of the pictures. I'll try to remember to take one of the jacked up pillar even though it's not one of my more proud moments. On a high note redoing all of them actually motivated me to figure out a neat quick profiling trick for people who don't have a DRO or in my case a broken dial on the compound so I guess it wasn't all a loss! :)
Here's the rotary valve and the piece of bar stock it came from.
IMGP0354_zps9454a879.jpg

IMGP0355_zpsb8693578.jpg

Here's the stock the valve ports came from
IMGP0356_zps68f37489.jpg

IMGP0357_zpsd29ae4bf.jpg

IMGP0358_zps2d805aa9.jpg

IMGP0359_zpsf80e04f7.jpg


The hardware store brass that I had to use to rebuild the pillars
IMGP0360_zps26baf95a.jpg

IMGP0362_zpsa02ef959.jpg


The build as of tonight.
IMGP0363_zpsc66a8619.jpg
 
Ran into a problem with my rotary valve but after a few hours of tinkering it worked itself out. The thread is in the q&a section if you're interested. I also got a start on the crank. I'm a little further than in the picture but dinner is on me tonight so I had to cut sling :( Maybe I'll go back out to the shop tonight and finish it.
The rotary valve.
IMGP0377_zps250e3943.jpg

Starting on the crank
IMGP0378_zpsd188c37a.jpg
 
So I got the launch engine from LMS for my second build. So far it has turned out pretty simple, minus still not having all of the right machine tools yet. I think I'm going to continue the series of engines from LMS until I'm done with them and that should give me a strong base of experience to move on to bigger and better things. It's nice to have the guess work taken out of it with a construction manual with the build plans.

Here's the kit.
IMGP0342_zpsc5f207d6.jpg


And here's the work so far...
IMGP0344_zpscc6e02a9.jpg

IMGP0343_zps03e3fdc3.jpg

IMGP0345_zpsb3535be2.jpg

IMGP0346_zps87badd95.jpg

IMGP0347_zpsae1b6ac2.jpg

IMGP0348_zps7287e14a.jpg

IMGP0349_zps9777dad5.jpg

IMGP0350_zpsc62e16d0.jpg

IMGP0351_zps18f854ca.jpg

IMGP0352_zps01671ce1.jpg


Hopefully I'll have some more to put on here pretty soon.

Hi Wagon,
You are doing fine.Wish I have all the patience.My impatience caused numerous rejects which resulted in reworks.
Looking forward to see your engine spinning.
 
So the crank took longer than I thought. My lathe apparently has a taper to it now. I never realized when I built the first engine but then I wasn't turning between centers either. I'll have to do a little homework tomorrow and figure out how to fix this. It's about 4 thousanths off or 2 I suppose since I was measuring the part, but that was only for about 3 inches of travel. Instead of figuring out why it was doing it and how to fix it, I just sanded down the remainder. It took a little bit but was fun to sit in there and listen to music. I finally realized what time it was though and since I have a pregnant neighbor I figured it would be polite to stop making so much noise :(

Gus, I learned that one with my first build when I wound up making 4 parts and wasting a butt load of time and money just cause I wanted to take shortcuts or "eyeball" things :p

So here is the shaped crankshaft mounted in the engine. I just wanted to get the flywheel on so it looked more like an engine. I'll take it out and drill for the connecting rod tomorrow and hopefully get done with the cylinder and piston. Hopefully by monday it will run :)

IMGP0381_zps1118efbf.jpg
 
Hello Buddy.

I am New Here From Brass Component Company. We Provide Custom Word Wide Brass Precision Component. So if you have any query about that are welcome.

Thanks.

So, do you make engines too?
 
Your taper can be from sources. Some steps to check it.

1) First chuck some scrap rod and turn the end to a sharp 60 degree point using the compound. The point will be at the center of the spindle.

2) Now bring the point of the live center to almost touch the pointed stock. If the tailstock is off center by .003 you should hopefully be able to see it. A lateral error can be adjusted in the tailstock.

3) A more precise test can be done by taking a piece of round stock, center drilling each end, and mounting between the live center and the center turned in the chuck (recut the point each time you replace it in the chuck. Then turn the round piece into a cylinder. Finally measure the result with a micrometer at several places along the length.

One issue I've found, with aluminum especially, is that turning heats the material and expands it. The heat is dissipated through the chuck much more quickly than through the tailstock, so the chuck end expands less. The tailstock end then is cut deeper and shows up when the work cools. For more precise parts, wait until the stock cools to room temperature before taking the smallest finishing passes.
 
Gus, the dye I'm using is dykem I use it if I have more than a mark or two to make. Otherwise I just reach for a sharpie. Kvom, Yea I think it's my tailstock. It has to be. When I turned the cylinder there was no taper to it whatsoever. Guess I'll be taking some youtube lessons this evening :) Thanks for your help.
 
Back
Top