My knurler.
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chucketn
Senior Citizen
I am also currently building a clamp style knurler. I made the arms from 1/2" key stock, but realize I need to increase them to 5/8" or bigger stock. I ordered 3/4" x 3/8" knurls from LMS and it will be a squeeze to get them into 1/2" keystock. Where did you get your wheels and what size are they?
I am also collecting info and material to make the flip-up threading tool per Bogs latest build.
Chuck in E. TN
I am also collecting info and material to make the flip-up threading tool per Bogs latest build.
Chuck in E. TN
Sweet accessory!! I need to make one too. It's either knurl everything or paint it.
Knurls come in various pitch. Is there a relationship between the knurl pitch and the diameter of the work piece?? It seems the teeth on the knurl should mesh with the work piece, kind of like a gear.
Nice job, Bob
Knurls come in various pitch. Is there a relationship between the knurl pitch and the diameter of the work piece?? It seems the teeth on the knurl should mesh with the work piece, kind of like a gear.
Nice job, Bob
ShedBoy
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That is a pearler Tel. What is the advantage of this style to the jam it into it with the crossfeed type.
Marv the math master has a knurl zip on his site if you want to be specific.
http://www.myvirtualnetwork.com/mklotz/
Brock
Marv the math master has a knurl zip on his site if you want to be specific.
http://www.myvirtualnetwork.com/mklotz/
Brock
Brock,
now, I dare You say You have no means of replacing that stack of washers and nut on top of the bolt with a large knurled knob. ;D ;D ;D
Whish You had taken a picture of the hidden side of the tool, too: how are the knurls held in place?
Marcello
now, I dare You say You have no means of replacing that stack of washers and nut on top of the bolt with a large knurled knob. ;D ;D ;D
Whish You had taken a picture of the hidden side of the tool, too: how are the knurls held in place?
Marcello
peatoluser
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The advantage of the scissor type is that one roller opposes the other so most of the force is taken by the arms and pivot points of the knurler. With the plunge in type the force is on the headstock bearings and cross slide nut.
I certainly wouldn't want to use a plunge in type on my peatol (1/4" nut) but a scissors type is probably fine.
Tel's right. You don't have to worry too much about the relationship of work O.D. and knurler pitch, but if marv's done all the maths for us why not use it?
that's a superb piece of knurling websterz.
oh darn it! now there's something else to put on my ever growing to-do list ;D
peter
I certainly wouldn't want to use a plunge in type on my peatol (1/4" nut) but a scissors type is probably fine.
Tel's right. You don't have to worry too much about the relationship of work O.D. and knurler pitch, but if marv's done all the maths for us why not use it?
that's a superb piece of knurling websterz.
oh darn it! now there's something else to put on my ever growing to-do list ;D
peter
mklotz
Well-Known Member
When I was learning to knurl many of the (older) books I read advised that, should the initial knurl be doubled, machine a bit off the stock and try again. In other words, alter the diameter on which the knurl is started. They never said to drive the knurl tool in deeper, perhaps because scissor knurls were uncommon in those days and the authors were concerned about overstressing the lathe bearings.
It seemed obvious to me that to get a perfect knurl, the circumference of the workpiece should be an integer multiple of the tooth spacing on the knurl wheel. The program is designed around that mathematical relationship.
Over the years I've tried both approaches, mashing and diameter adjustment, many times and my observations are:
Mashing works most of the time, especially so on softer materials.
I've never had a doubled knurl using the diameter adjustment technique.
So, use your own judgement. Try them both and decide what works best for you.
It seemed obvious to me that to get a perfect knurl, the circumference of the workpiece should be an integer multiple of the tooth spacing on the knurl wheel. The program is designed around that mathematical relationship.
Over the years I've tried both approaches, mashing and diameter adjustment, many times and my observations are:
Mashing works most of the time, especially so on softer materials.
I've never had a doubled knurl using the diameter adjustment technique.
So, use your own judgement. Try them both and decide what works best for you.
chucketn
Senior Citizen
I've got mine done except for the slots and axel holes for the knurls, which haven't arrived yet.
I made mine from 1/2" key stock, but don't think I can mill a 3/8" slot for the knurls and have enough metal left to make it work.
(1/2" - 3/8")/2= 1/16" per side. What do you all think?
I have a hunk of 5/8 plate available. That would leave 1/8" per side to hold the knurl, but would have to cut it with an armstrong (manual) hack saw. NOT!
Another option would be to cut a 3/8" step in the side of the arms and add a 1/8" piece, would that be strong enough?
Chuck in E. TN
I made mine from 1/2" key stock, but don't think I can mill a 3/8" slot for the knurls and have enough metal left to make it work.
(1/2" - 3/8")/2= 1/16" per side. What do you all think?
I have a hunk of 5/8 plate available. That would leave 1/8" per side to hold the knurl, but would have to cut it with an armstrong (manual) hack saw. NOT!
Another option would be to cut a 3/8" step in the side of the arms and add a 1/8" piece, would that be strong enough?
Chuck in E. TN
mzetati said:
I made tapered pins out of drill rod. I don't plan to change the knurls anytime soon so the pins will work for now. If I need to later I can replace them with hardened shoulder bolts.
I have a lovely piece of round stock just begging to be made into a knurled nut...when I find the time. ;D
peatoluser said:
Thanks for the compliment Peter!
And you are absolutely right about the scissor and clamp style knurling tools being better on smaller lathes. You can even clamp them in a vise and knurl material of limited length on a milling machine.
mklotz
Well-Known Member
Just because you have a knurler, don't run amok and start knurling everything in sight. Kurling on small, infrequently used knobs, nuts, etc. is fine but knurls on items grasped with the hand or used/adjusted frequently can be tough on the hands/fingers. (I always shudder when I see that perpetual shop class project hammer with the knurled handle.)
Fluting, as seen on many screwdriver handles, is much more comfortable if you have to really apply pressure or use the adjustment frequently.
If you knurl something and it feels sharp to your hand while still in the lathe, take a light cut across the knurls to flatten the tops of all the little pyramids you've formed. Your hands will thank you.
Fluting, as seen on many screwdriver handles, is much more comfortable if you have to really apply pressure or use the adjustment frequently.
If you knurl something and it feels sharp to your hand while still in the lathe, take a light cut across the knurls to flatten the tops of all the little pyramids you've formed. Your hands will thank you.
