My first project

[Kpar]

Well I'm just learning ( for a mid 70 old) to use my Lathe & Bench Mill and decided on a project I thought was going to be simple.(nothing is). Anyway I'm a Vintage Ford fan with a couple of cars and after seeing a replica of Henry Fords First Engine I thought I would give it a go.
A simple project made out of pipe fittings with a bit of machining. I soon found it was a bit more than that. I've just about got most of the bits together with a couple of challenges with the Exhaust Valve & the Cast Iron Piston. My next challenge which I've never attempted is a couple of inside & outside keyways.
The photo shows where I'm up to at this stage with sections only hand screwed together until all parts are available. Next is a crank shaft, counterweight & a wherever I can a Flywheel. I've mad a few mistakes but it's been fun. One big mistake I should have use parallel threads on fittings to close up the combustion chamber as compression is an issue.
Comments on keyway cutting would be appreciated.
Keith

 

[Herbiev]

Looking great so far

 

[vederstein]

The best way to make a keyway is to broach it. If you're willing to pay well over $100 for even a Chinese broach set. The cheap way is to clamp a parting tool in the lathe and whittle out a groove.

I've tried this a few times and with each time I get a little better, but it's certainly not the best way to accomplish this task.

 

[deeferdog]

Looks good Kpar. For internal keyways, I generally use a file. Broaches are getting cheaper, https://www.aliexpress.com/premium/metric-broach. Cheers, Peter

 

[rlukens]

The best way to make a keyway is to broach it. The cheap way is to clamp a parting tool in the lathe and whittle out a groove.

I prefer to use a boring bar in my mill's quill. Easier than cranking the saddle in and out. Lock the spindle rotation and dress the key profile on the cutter.

 

[Kpar]

Thanks guys, I will have a go at using parting off blade & boring bar in the mill on a bit of scrap.
I do remember in my young days my Dad had a jig that clamped in a vice and you could fit several hacksaw blades in it to the required key width
and saw away. Not sure if it was home made or if they were available back then.

 

[Ratshooter]

A couple things: 1, put a dummy shaft in your pulley, and drill halfway into the work (and halfway in the scrap shaft) This will make the "carriage pumping" with the parting tool less tedious. 2. Practice on something that doesn't matter and see if you can make it work before you put your one of a kind part in harm's way. Don't ask me how I know..........

 

[Kpar]

Well it's been a while but I finally got back to my project. It was a bit more daunting than I thought but I kept at it & following a lot of mistakes I'm finally ready for a test run. All is set up in it's raw state and I'm fairly confident Valve & Spark timing is as Leon advised.
A week later and all I get is a few firing strokes then seems to choke itself to death. I thought compression was the issue so installed a plug to increase it, no go. I have been told to use Shellite instead of unleaded fuel so will give that a go. (before I shelve it)
Are there others out there that had difficulties in getting these Henry Ford's Engines to run.
I'm seriously thinking, it's back to the plans and start again.
Kpar

 

[mohavegun]

Anybody out there know where I can get an instruction manual for Geometric Die heads, specifically Cleveland 00 and 100 series? I understand that Cleveland twist drill company is still in biz but they do not show any links on their website.

 

[hitandmissman]

where did you get the plans for the engine?

 

[Kpar]

Hitandmissman, I purchased the plans from
LEON RIDENOUR
Machine Work
Model Engines & Parts
Knoxville, TN. Ph. (865) 584-9759
[email protected]
Only a few dollars & a very helpful chap.
Kpar