My first model hit n miss

Discussion in 'Photos and Videos' started by popnrattle, Apr 24, 2011.

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  1. Apr 24, 2011 #1

    popnrattle

    popnrattle

    popnrattle

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    I used a shot glass for a gas tank and rubber o-rings on the alum. piston for compression per "cfellows" dimensions. 1-1/4 bore x 1-9/16 stroke. H-D style fltwheel set-up didn't have provision for starting, hence the electric drill motor. All bearing surfaces are oil-lite bronze, cast iron cylinder, CRS valves and head. Thanks for watching.

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hL1N6iKbhw[/ame]
     
  2. Apr 24, 2011 #2

    gbritnell

    gbritnell

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    Nice job on your first engine. I must say that is one of the most unique starting systems I've ever seen. It looks like it works well though.
    gbritnell
     
  3. Apr 24, 2011 #3

    slkride

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    Isn't that just a great felling when something you been working on for what seems like for ever comes to life and runs. Nice Runner give your self a pat on the back from me!!!!
     
  4. Apr 24, 2011 #4

    Brian Rupnow

    Brian Rupnow

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    Congratulations. Its a great feeling when your first i.c. engine comes to life. I have built one hit and miss and one four stroke, and really, after building and succesfuly running an i.c. engine, "air" motors just don't seem all that exciting.---Brian
     
  5. Apr 24, 2011 #5

    metalmad

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    What a interesting design
    Is it one of yours or from plans?
    I would be interested in knowing more about it :bow:
    Pete
     
  6. Apr 24, 2011 #6

    Maryak

    Maryak

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    P&R,

    Great stuff :bow: :bow:

    Unique design and I really like the starter. :bow:

    Best Regards
    Bob
     
  7. Apr 24, 2011 #7

    popnrattle

    popnrattle

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    Thanks for all the kind remarks. It is a product of my design. All drawn in CAD. Most parts are CNC'd. There was a 6 foot length of 6 inch dia. CRS, hence the H-D style built-up "crank". Lots of 10-32 SHCS hold the crank parts together. Rubber band determines rpm based upon # of wraps.(band breaks, engine stops!) Balancing was a good guess and is probably smooth because the flywheels might be too heavy. Will experiment with lighter flywheels and finer threads on needle valve.The ignition is GM points timing 12V coil(in box) off crank.(will eventually use switch on pushrod to save battery). Starter gear is same as crank gear so, is 1 to 1 ratio. "Electric" starter won't appeal to the purists, but I just wanted to see it run. All gears designed in CAD, then CNC'd. See my gear procedures on YT. Designed cam with 3 different profiles to get what I wanted and may do one more for more duration, maybe not so much lift.
    Hard to describe the feeling when the thing first pops, and then, again, when YOU are the one cutting the ignition to make it stop instead of it stopping itself. I'll take some pics as I build more engines.
     
  8. Apr 24, 2011 #8

    cfellows

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    That's a nice looking engine and it runs good, too. I like that design. I doubt the flywheels are too large or heavy for a 1.25" bore.

    Chuck
     
  9. Apr 26, 2011 #9

    rake60

    rake60

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    Great stuff popnrattle! :bow:

    Rick
     

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