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Afdem Steam Co.

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This is 2 stage steamer I built. The valve set up runs off the piston stroke (cant see the set up in the pic) I will take some new ones. The fly wheel is an old caster wheel I found at work. The boiler is a old pneumatic cylinder (just removed the piston and plugged the hole. This engine runs off 20psi and 30-40 if you want to go balls to the wall and also blow the whistle. This was a fun project, I did the machining at work on the bridgeport. I am now wanting to build my mini machine shop in the basement. I just bought a 7x10 lathe and am thinking about buying the harbor freight/grizzle mini mill. Anyone have something good or bad to say about them?

afdem steamer sized.jpg
 
Nice job on the engine, I have used castors on projects too, saves a lot of swarf ;D


IronHorse
 
Thanks! This caster wheel was quite the find for me. I had been searching for something that was the right weight and size for along time. This steel one weights in at around 6lbs. I find myself looking at anything round now and asking myself could that work for a flywheel... Maybe some day I will venture off into the world of sand casting.
 
Afdem Steam Co. said:
I just bought a 7x10 lathe and am thinking about buying the harbor freight/grizzle mini mill. Anyone have something good or bad to say about them?

And how. Let me sum it up for ya.

A lot of people in this hobby wouldn't be here if it weren't for those Asian lathes and mini-mills. Consequently, you will find much information about them in this very forum. Pay closest attention to the posts made by people who have actually owned and used them.

To summarize my summary - they can be a good investment for the money-conscious and space-limited hobbyists.
 
It all depends on budget. You buy what you can afford, but I'd spend the most I could on a good mill or lathe. I got a Harbor Freight X3 mill and I love it, but it is taking work to keep it tight and accurate. One good example of this is that I had to grind all the gibs so that they made more surface contact and kept the tables from wobbling on their screws. Also the main spindle wobbles by around .0005" at the tool and at the spindle (so it's not a collet problem). After discussing this with Chris at LMS and some other people the general consensus is "well yeah, that sounds about right for a cheaper little mill". It's plenty accurate for me but those are some things to consider.

I will say that I like the Taiwanese made tools a bit better as long as they are not the round column type, and as long as they are not the Chinese knock offs of the Taiwanese tool. If you have around $2k I love the rong fu rf-45 as a "almost as big as a knee mill" mill. If you have less than that wait around for a HF sale and a cupon so you can get their tools for very cheap (My X3 which Grizz sells for $1150 I got for $600). If I didn't get such a discount the HF version would have been $999.99, and in that case in hindsight I'd certainly spend the extra $150 to get the Grizz version, fit finish and support are just better. If you are looking for the $500 range the little machine shop High Torque Mini Mill is quite nice. In fact I don't really use the size of the X3 that much, and the DC brush-less is a fantastic upgrade to this little mill so if I had to choose what's on the shelves today with no discounts I'd buy that mill without a question.

One thing I've noticed is that most of the small mills expect you to use the spindle for the Z travel, I've never done this on my X3 except for drilling. I'd much rather keep the rigidity up by moving the whole mill head and then locking it down. This has proved useful for some projects where I've wanted to use stainless but if you are spending most of your time in softer materials (including 1018 steel) then using the spindle should be just fine.
 
Very nice!

I'd be interested in seeing how you did the valves on it - look forward to more pictures.
 
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