More Webster Goodness

Discussion in 'A Work In Progress' started by jlchapman, Oct 20, 2019.

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  1. Oct 20, 2019 #1

    jlchapman

    jlchapman

    jlchapman

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    I know there has been a couple of Webster in progress here. Might as well have another.

    So, I started with the cylinder head. I used the mill for all the operations on the head. I debated whether to start with the cylinder or the head first. I wanted that snug fit for the cylinder into the head. Either way works great. I'm going to use my disc sander later to round the corners. I've been working on this for the past couple of weeks and should have taken more pictures.
    I should mention, I'm a big fan of using an edge finder and a DRO. On real critical parts, I use blue dye and measure where the holes should be, then verify the location using the DRO.
    Cylinder Head.JPEG
     
  2. Oct 20, 2019 #2

    jlchapman

    jlchapman

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    For the cylinder I ordered some oversized 1.25 easy to machine cast iron rod from McMaster Carr. I cleaned up the exterior of the cast iron rod using the lathe. I faced one end, center drilled, then drilled thru to 2.75" using a 5/16" drill bit. The cylinder only needs to be 2.5", this also me to correct possible mistakes later on. Then using a .750 drill bit drilled thru the bore. I'll use the mill to finish the bore to .873. Cut the cylinder off in the horizontal saw.

    Using the milling machine I bored the cylinder out to .873. I make a plug on the lathe at .873 with a chamfered edge so I can sneak up on .873. I measure a lot but like the extra check. Be careful when boring with taking to big of a cut. When taking big cuts your boring bar will deflect. Whats a big cut? maybe .010 - .015.

    I'll finish the last .002 of the bore using a wheel cylinder hone to create a cross hatch pattern.
    IMG_4174.JPEG 873plug.JPEG
     
  3. Oct 22, 2019 #3

    werowance

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    looking good. if using store bought piston rings you may want to wait until you have them in hand before finish boring and cutting the piston.
     
  4. Oct 22, 2019 #4

    jlchapman

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    Thanks Werowance!

    I already have the rings. Otto's was very quick shipping. I remember the first time going to a machine shop to get my 350 Chev bored out .030. The machine shop would do nothing until I brought the new pistons in. Same applies to these small engines.
     
  5. Oct 22, 2019 #5

    jlchapman

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    Well I finished the flywheel. I was dreading the aluminium hub machining. I saw where Brian made a tool. So I watched some youtube videos on trepaning. Ground out a tool and it was quick and easy machining. I've attached some of the pictures of the tool. Sorry the pictures are a little out of focus. IMG_4178.JPEG IMG_4182.JPEG
     
  6. Oct 22, 2019 #6

    jlchapman

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    I had some leftover bronze tube that I bought for the hoglet. So I made an aluminium hub and pressed and loctited into the bronze. The flywheel is really heavy. I drilled the holes at .625, I thought it looked better than .750. I used my DRO on the mill and Little Machine Shop PCD calculator to layout and drill the holes. Little bit of chatter from my tool machining the aluminum, I hope it cleans up.
    IMG_4176.JPEG IMG_4177.JPEG
     
  7. Nov 2, 2019 #7

    jlchapman

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    Its been a work week so not much time in the shop. What time I did have I spent working on my Spring Winder project. https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/spring-winder-build-your-own-springs.31666/ Its almost finished, so I worked on the base of the Webster. Pretty basic stuff. I rounded the corners on everything by using my disc sander. I need some more time to jazz it up. I used a roughing end mill to square up the pieces. I did not leave enough material to sand the marks out. Something to watch for next time. It also makes a big difference on what side of the Aluminum plate you want showing.

    IMG_4226.JPEG

    IMG_4228.JPEG
     
  8. Nov 4, 2019 #8

    werowance

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    looks good I like the way the you rounded the corners. nice.
     
  9. Nov 4, 2019 #9

    awake

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    Looking good! What type of bearing are you using for the crankshaft?
     
  10. Nov 6, 2019 #10

    jlchapman

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    For the crankshaft bearing, I ordered from Stock Drive products. 5/16" I.D. X 1/2" O.D X 5/32" THK., FLANGED P/N A 7Y55-FS5031

    There pretty proud of them but I liked having the flange.
     
  11. Nov 7, 2019 #11

    awake

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    Whenever I've looked for bearings sized in inches, they always seem to be much more expensive than metric bearings. It would require just a bit of modification to go with an F608 or F688 bearing - 8mm rather than 5/16", so the shaft would need to be .315" rather than .313", and you can get them for less than $1 each on Amazon (with Prime shipping, no less), or for half that on eBay. But of course, if changing to 8mm means having to buy new reamers, etc., it may not be worth it.

    As I am playing with design ideas for a modified Webster build, I am planning to use metric bearings, but I will probably re-size the shaft to 10mm and use F6800 bearings, so that I can more easily use a key to secure the flywheel and gear to the shaft. Still, I'm just trying out ideas, so that may change!

    On edit: I just realized that the OD of either the 608 or 688 will be a good bit bigger than the 1/2" of the bearings you are using - 22mm or 16mm, respectively. However, you can get F678 bearings, measuring 8 x 12 x 3.5mm, which would be close to (but a bit smaller than) the OD and thickness of the bearings you are planning to use - a bit more expensive, but not much.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2019

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