Mechanicboy !Connect the lever for amount of fuel to the centrifugal regulator and the ekstra lever with spring connected to the lever for amount of fuel. Then the engine are running with right regulated amount of fuel in the right rpm range.
i'm a bit curious when you say that you "see oil vapor coming out of the exhaust". you should be shooting a very fine mist.Hi All !
A update :
I assembled the engine , I don't have a small copper tube, so I used a 6mm copper tube - which is quite large - to test the pump and injectors (I will replace the small copper tube when I buy it).
with a high pressure oil leak in the coupling, I see oil vapor coming out of the exhaust, which means the injector has injected oil into the cylinder - whether it's good or bad I don't know
I have a question: the injector will inject when the piston is 20 degrees in front of TDC, so: where will the pump lobe be located ? will it start pumping or in the middle of pumping or ?
When I tested : I could smell oil from the exhaust pipe , but i am not sure it was oil from the exhaust pipe , so i increased the oil pressure a little ( piston stroke at the beginning of the test was the lowest - only increased about 0.5 - 0.7 mm extra piston stroke) to be sure: the oil pump generates enough pressure to open the injectori'm a bit curious when you say that you "see oil vapor coming out of the exhaust". you should be shooting a very fine mist.
the quantity of fuel per stroke should also be very small, only a few milliliters. you may have too large or too coarse of spray
That's what I'm really thinking aboutby convention, "20 degrees BTDC" would be the *start* of injection (noszsle opens). the fuel spray will continue until the nozzle
closes. the *effective* timing is determined by the start of injection, the duration of injection and the injection quantity. i.e. if the
fuel is "dumped" through the injector quickly, the effective timing will be more advanced, etc. depending on your actual setup, 20
degrees may be a bit much, 5-10 degrees might start easier.
Why didn't i think of that !?? I will get some old tubes from my friendGo to a scrap yard and get some old steel injector pipes from a diesel car or truck and use that material... cheap - easy to source - the right stuff!
Yes, you are right !Try and remember: You need 25 bar air pressure in the engine from the adiabatic compression stroke. Just to open the injector you need to exceed that. But to get atomisation you'll need to achieve 100bar plus in the pulsation from the injection pump. The volume is so small you need a very "stiff" pipework and connector system. I.E. THICK walled steel tubing with very small bore.
Have you checked the actual compression you are achieving in the cylinder? Have you checked the pressure you are achieving from the pump?
I think you need to know more so you can direct your efforts accordingly.