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Steve,
That is way to cool, cant wait to see that Tecumseh on it.
Art
 
Thanks. I now have to do a mountian of work to get the motor going.

Anybody know of a good way to coil wire so I can build cables. I found a source for spring tubes but the minimum order is 650 bucks at 17 bucks a foot. That aint happening.
 
Hello Steve,

Are the cables for the brakes/throttle/clutch?
If so, you can get some very small control cables for RC aircraft from any decent hobby shop.
The cable itself can be as small as .032" (0.8mm) diameter with a tube (from memory) about .08" or .1" (2 - 2.5mm), so you should have no problem getting a scale size.
The minimum bending radius for the smallest control cables is about 1.5". The tube is yellow unfortunately but probably wouldn't be too hard to paint black.

I have used this stuff for years and it is very good. I've never used the supplied clevises, I make my own (smaller) fittings and soft-solder direct to the cable.
Check the Sullivan website, their products have been available at every hobby store I have ever visited.
http://www.sullivanproducts.com/GoldnRodMainFrame.htm
Scroll down past the 'Nylon' type to 'Steel Cable Type', note that the cable is steel(stainless) but is plated for easy soft-soldering.

Edit:
Sorry, forgot to mention there is also Du-bro brand pushrods(example picture of 'Micro 30 system' with the clear tube)... same thing, every hobby store I have ever been to stocks this stuff.
http://shop.dubro.com/p/30-micro2-pushrod-system-2-pkg
I can't comment on the Du-Bro gear as I have always used Sullivan, but I wouldn't expect it to be very different. It is a solid rod tho so may not have the bending radius that the Sullivan cable has.

Edit #2:
Also forgot to mention that these cables work equally well in 'push' operation as they do with 'pull'. Model aircraft can put phenominal loads on these cables and I have never had a problem yet.
When the bending radius is pretty tight I usually put a couple of drops of a light silicon or Teflon oil on the cable before pushing it into the tube.

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I can't help with outer tubing, but wire fishing trace is available in a range of strengths/thicknesses. There are two types commonly available. One type is just single strand wire and wouldn't be suitable, but the other is very finely braided wire. Should look very realistic.

P.S. I haven't commented yet, but the bike looks great!
 
How about using black shrink tube for the casing, heat shrink it on a wire and slide it off.
 
Yep, local hobby shop, dubro or sulivan. Dont know whats closest for you, I only hit the east side hobby shops once in my life. :) Nankin at 9mile and farmington has them in stock.
 
Wow!

What a great idea...just saw this today.

I'll be watching the rest of this build...very cool.
 
Was really hoping this project would continue! The suspense is killing me! :D
 
Sometimes when something is scaled down some of the detail will be lost to make the piece doable. The original block has 8 fins. This one will only have 7. I had to sacrifice a fin to allow room for a cutter with enough reach to get to the depth required to cut out the fins. Should know if it worked in a few days.


Little bit more.


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This project is looking really smart! Glad its started up again.

You've probably already said what CAM software you're using but can I ask again...

Its projects like this that get be fired up.

R
 
This project is looking really smart! Glad its started up again.

You've probably already said what CAM software you're using but can I ask again...

Its projects like this that get be fired up.

R

Alibre to model my engines.

CamBam does all the magic. Can't say enough about how well it works.

Mach3 runs the mill. It does all the other magic.
 
Side 2 code for the mill is tested. I had a little crash so the finishing passes were not complete but the problem has been corrected and I'm on to side 3. I guess that's why we test. When the code is complete I am going to try to make 3 cases. There will be about 15 hours each to cut so I think the extra debug time is worth it.

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