Mamod Roadster convertion Mk.2 A 'Mamod Morgan 3 wheeler'.

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Tony Bird

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
822
Reaction score
895
Location
Cardiff, South Wales, UK
HMEM Mamod Roadster Conversion Mk.2 a ‘Mamod Morgan’ 3 wheeler.

Hi,

In December of 2012 in the ‘Finished Projects’ section of HMEM I started a thread titled ‘A Model Steam Car Modified’. The thread described work done on a Mamod Roadster which eventually went a bit OTT, the Roadster ending up with not only R/C steering but an R/C forward/reverse regulator and gas firing as well!

A video of the Mk1 Roadster performance.


The Roadster performs really well but does have a problem with traction as the drive is through only one of its rear wheels and there is no suspension to talk of. If the surface it is running on isn’t particulary flat the drive wheel can leave the ground and loose traction. I had mentioned to several people that if I were to alter another Roadster I would make it a 3 wheeler rather like a Morgan. A few weeks later a friend presented me with a Mamod Roadster that looked as if it had had a hard and interesting life, several bits were missing the seat with its support, safety valve, flywheel and spring drive belts. It also looked as if it had survived a major fire, which probably destroyed its plastic seat, but there was more than enough left for the modifications I wished to make.

Photographs of Mk.2 as received.


TheMk.1 Roadster hadn’t had headlights when received so had had some made for it, these were replaced by headlights supplied by Mk.2. The headlights removed were used on Mk.2.

Photographof Mk.1 Roadster with original Mamod headlights fitted along with another recent addition a pressure gauge.



As most of the construction was covered in the previous thread this thread will only show for the most part the things that are different. It also won’t be very quick as it is being done around other jobs. The Mk.2 Roadster was first taken apart and cleaned. As with the Mk.1 Roadster the firebox has been fitted with soldered nuts which allow it to be taken apart easily. There was a dry run to see what it would look like as a 3 wheeler.

Photographsof Mk2 converted to a three-wheel vehicle.



Some thought was given to the design and construction, with a wheel and all its transmission inside the chassis and a shorter wheelbase there wouldn’t be as much room as there was in Mk1 Roadster for the R/C. While working on other projects I looked and thought about what to do regarding the appearance of the Mamod/Morgan. I had been on the web and was unable to find a steam powered Morgan to copy, however there were plenty of photographs of competition Morgans from the 1920’s and 30’s. So it was decided to make a sports version of a Morgan.

When making Mk.1 sums had been done regarding the gear ratio to be use. The Mamod before conversion had a gear reduction of about 18:1 having done some sums regarding replacing the single acting engine with a 5/16” (8mm) bore and ¾” (19mm) stroke giving a swept volume of 955 cu mm. The replacement a twin double acting engine with a bore of 5/16” (8mm) and stroke of 15/32”(12mm) giving a swept volume of 2412 cu mm about 2.5 times grater than the single. A gear ratio of a little less than 9:1 was eventually decided on which worked well, the boiler producing enough steam for continuous running and the model could even managing small slopes. But Mk.1 is heavy having a dry weight (with no water, batteries or gas) of 5.75lbs or about 2.6kgs, so a lightweight version is to be tried.

This second Mamod donor model is an earlier version than the first I think, it had a higher gear ratio of about 13:1 and a different pulley arrangement. So the alterations to the model will be to make it as light as possible with perhaps a means of altering its gear ratios. The original wheels though attractive to look at are quite heavy 4.25 ozs or 120grms each. A visit the local model shop produced for a total of less than £3 some plastic wheels of the same size and the 3 of them only weighing a total of 5.25ozs about 150grms, a big saving in weight. The new plastic front wheels are fitted with brass bearings and the driving wheel is fitted to a chain sprocket.

Mk.2 with plastic wheels.


The gear reduction of Mk.2 like the one used on Mk.1 is done in three stages. A primary from the engine using spur gears to a off-set propeller shaft, a intermediate gear consisting of a contrate wheel driven from a pinion mounted on the propeller shaft, the final drive is by a sprocket and chain to the wheel. All the gears used are from Meccano. The primary drive gear ratio, which will be difficult to alter, but it will be easy to alter the ratios of the secondary and final drives.

Wheel depthing without a depthing tool or direct measurement.



Primary drive.


Secondary drive.


Final drive.


Where possible the gears and sprockets have been lightened and aluminium has been used to reduce weight. More to follow.

Regards Tony.
 
Hi,

As Morgan have a wide front wheel track relative to their length aluminium extension pieces were added to the chassis.

Photograph of extension piece.


Then the mudguards were cut down and fitted with the headlights of Mk.1.

Photograph of mudguards with headlights fitted to the chassis.


Photograph of Mk.1 and Mk.2 to date.



To make it easier for the driver the see the gauge glass on the boiler it was turned around and to improve the boiler’s efficiency it was fitted with 34 hedgehog spikes.

Photograph of boiler.


After the boiler was tested and painted it was heated using Sterno as a fuel to power a small double acting oscillating engine. The boiler when enclosed and fired by gas will produce a lot more steam. A ‘Goodall’ type water top up valve has been fitted to the top of the boiler.

Video of boiler and engine.


Photograph of the boiler fitted to the chassis.


As an added convenience for the driver the vehicle has been made LHD so it is easier to reach the regulator/reversing lever, which also means there will bemore room for the R/C and to this same end the propeller shaft has also been moved to the same side as well. The steering wheel has been lowered in keeping with it being a sports car. A start has been made on there regulator/reversing block and a rear mudguard fitted.

Photographsof how the model looks today.





Further progress when made will be posted.

Regards Tony.
 
WOW!!! I like that very, very much - well done!

Time to start scouring EBay for a roadster i think ;D
 
Hi,

After quite a long break some more work has been done on the Roadster. There had been a bit of a problem with finding space for the R/C on the first Roadster converted and the second one has even less space due to its rear wheel within the body. So it was decided to start positioning the parts of the R/C equipment especially the servos. When the Mamod Roadster arrived its seat and its support was missing and it was thought to fabricate a replacement, however with the shortage of space it was decided to use a replacement Mamod seat and its support along with part of the original rear body. The body for the reversing/regulator valve was machined and fitted where the original engine had been fitted which is as it was done on the previous Roadster that was altered.


To save a bit more space and allow the seat to me positioned further forward the reversing/regulator valve was moved further forward. The photograph shows this done with the new seat and its support just resting on the body.



The seat and its support was to be positioned on the original Roadster rear body which was to house the reversing regulator servo but the body was too high and long so it was cut down and its parts soldered together again.
















Next job is to figure out where the steering servo should go and the position of the gas tank has yet to be resolved. Still thinking...

Regards Tony.
 
This is looking so cool to me! Seeing fcheslop's tractor (on another site) and this car is realy making me look for one to build. It will be Stirlung powered tho.

Pretty ingenious way to add a suspension to that rigid frame, storing a mental note there. Nice work on the gears. Where did you find the chain?

Nice work, have you considered designing one yourself?

Also, where do you find these cars? I'd like to get my hands on a few.
 
What fuel are you using? If it's alcohol, a nice polished brass tank sitting across the frame behind the seat would look nice and fit in with the period of the car. Of course that tank position would be considered insane today.

Don
 
Hi JW,

This is looking so cool to me! Seeing fcheslop's tractor (on another site) and this car is really making me look for one to build. It will be Stirling powered though.

Yes Frazer is a fine modeller. A Stirling powered car sounds interesting.

Pretty ingenious way to add a suspension to that rigid frame, storing a mental note there. Nice work on the gears. Where did you find the chain?

The suspension is original I just fitted extension pieces to enlarge the track. The gears, sprockets and chain are Mecanno products


Nice work, have you considered designing one yourself?

Not really this is just a bit of fun, mostly I make steam locomotives for use on garden railways.


Also, where do you find these cars? I'd like to get my hands on a few.

New from www.mamod.co.uk or other suppliers at the moment the Mamod Roadster retails at £218.00 or less. Used examples are a lot less the one I was given which was in a very poor state would not have cost much.

Hi Don,

What fuel are you using? If it's alcohol, a nice polished brass tank sitting across the frame behind the seat would look nice and fit in with the period of the car. Of course that tank position would be considered insane today.

Butane gas and the Mk.1 Roadster was similarly power and had its gas tank behind the seat. It was painted black to absorb any heat to help vaporise the gas as the tank was a long way from the boilers heat.

Video of Mk.1 with just a ceramic heater fitted before it had its major alterations, It is powered by its original one single acting cylinder.





Regards Tony.
 
Where are you planning on running the exhaust line from the reversing/regulator? If you're concerned about the tank not being warm enough, maybe you could loop it under the tank as a pre-heater.

Don
 
Hi Don,

Where are you planning on running the exhaust line from the reversing/regulator? If you're concerned about the tank not being warm enough, maybe you could loop it under the tank as a pre-heater.


What a good idea! I've made cooling coils for electric motors and feed water heaters for boilers so why not a heating system for gas tanks? I often use a hollow stay through my gas tanks as a means of holding them so why not pass the exhaust through one. As I mostly make model GR locomotives in '0' gauge the problem of refrigeration of the gas tanks doesn't occur waste heat from the boiler sees to that. I will think more on your idea.

Many thanks.

Tony.
 
Hi,

I have done a bit more to the Roadster conversion, it doesn't look a lot but it took some time. Realised that the gears that will be behind the engine obscure one of the engine mounting screws so smaller gears with about the same ratio were fitted.

From this.



To this.



Regards Tony.
 
Hi,

Fort a change from water gauges, boilers and repairing the workshop floor I thought I would do a little more to the Roadster. First unnecessary holes were filled in the chassis with epoxy glue, spacers replaced the hexagonal nuts in the transmission and the two servos, receiver and On/Off switch have been fitted in the seat support.








Further finishing will be require after more work has been done.




The centres of these spacers will be relieved.









Next is to figure out where the gas tank and batteries will go.

Regards Tony.
 
Hi,

I have done a little more to the Roadster. With a bit of surgery which effected the paint work managed to get the two servos, switch, receiver and batteries into the seat and its support. The propeller shaft is now shrouded to protect the wiring. Now the R/C is sorted out it means that the gas tank can be fitted on a bracket behind the seat as in the Mk.1 conversion. This means that it will not be necessary to fit a rear body and the spare wheel can be dumped. I don't think sports versions of the 3 wheel Morgan had a spare wheel anyway maybe just tyre levers and a puncture repair outfit! Any way the lack of rear body and spare wheel will reduce weight. So far Mk.2 weighs 1.6kg about 3.5lbs against the Mk.1's dry finished weight of 2.60kg about 5.75lbs.

Modified R/C installation.



Propeller shaft cover K&S brass tube.



Mk.2 Roadster to date.




Regards Tony.
 
Hi,

Happy with the R/C installation and the gas tank finished and tested, some bits have been painted and transfers used. The insides of the front wheels have been cut away to allow the king pins to line up with the centre of the tyres thus reducing the load on the steering servo.









SWMBO's comment that from above it looks like a cooked lobster was treated with the contempt it deserved. I don't expect that I will find time to do anymore work on the Roadster until well into the New Year.

Regards Tony.

Regards Tony.
 
Hi,

Well I have managed to a bit more work on 'Bird' Special which has been mostly cosmetic. After a certain amount of butchery a driver has been persuaded to fit, I think with the addition of hat, scarf and goggles Mr Tarrant will do. I wasn't very happy with the appearance of the rear end of the Special which has now been cut off, so the driving wheel with sprocket now rotates on the axle which has become a chassis spacer. Doing this also saved a few grams of weight!






Mk.1 Roadster and the Mk.2 Special.






I wish all the members of HMEM a Great Christmas and a Health New Year.

Regards Tony.
 
Hi,

Its almost three months since any work was done on the Roadster. Most of the time being spent get models ready for a new season of playing. Yesterday after hopefully repairing a leak in the roof of the trailer that will be used to transport our 16mm layout to Peterborough in a couple of weeks time; a little relaxing was called for and the Roadster chosen. The first couple of jobs to be done will be to finish the work on the R/C by making the reversing valve followed by a steering connection.

1. The front of the reversing block drilled; showing the 4 holes for the valve and on the edge two holes for the steam/exhaust pipes with a hole for a lubricator pipe between.



2. The back of the reversing block with a hole of the steam pipe and on its edge a hole for the exhaust pipe.



3. The steam pipe and lubricator pipe hard soldered to the reversing block.



4. The two steam/exhaust and exhaust pipes soft soldered into the port block.



5. As the reversing block and its pipe work look on the Roadster.



The steam and lubricator pipes were hard soldered because the join the same hole and don't have much of a landing. As it was successful in the Mk.1 Roadster conversion silicon tube will be used to connect the steam and exhaust pipe together.

Regards Tony.
 
I want one of these full sized. Been in love with the idea since seeing them on Top Gear. British racing green of course, like my old MG Little Person I had.


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines
 

Latest posts

Back
Top